Kev Reynolds

The Mountain Hut Book


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      The

      Mountain Hut

      Book

      by Kev Reynolds

      © Kev Reynolds 2018

      First edition 2018

      ISBN: 978 1 85284 928 3

      Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

      Image Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com

      Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA.

      NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI

      Acknowledgements

      My thanks as ever to Jonathan Williams at Cicerone for his initial enthusiasm to take this book on, and my apologies for keeping him guessing as to its content until the very last moment. I am grateful, too, to all the Cicerone team who put it together, especially Pat Dunn, my editor, and designer Clare Crooke. Not only are they highly skilled at what they do, but they are such lovely people to work with, and I trust they know how much I value their special friendship. Thank you, each one. My good friend Gillian Price, whose personal experience of the Dolomites is much greater than mine, generously provided a description of one of her favourite huts as well as the spectacular Alta Via 2 trek across those bewitching mountains, and gave me access to some of her splendid photographs with which to illustrate them. Thanks, Gillian, I’m in your debt! I’m also grateful to Anaïs Bobst at Switzerland Tourism for the image of the new Monte Rosa Hut. And to my wife Min and our daughters, and all those with whom I’ve shared unforgettable hutting experiences in various parts of the world – my love and thanks for adding to life’s riches.

      Mountain safety

      Every mountain walk has its dangers, and those described in this guidebook are no exception. All who walk or climb in the mountains should recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions along the way. The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information contained in this guide was correct when it went to press, but, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, they cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.

      To call out the Mountain Rescue, ring 999 (in the UK) or the international emergency number 112: this will connect you via any available network. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the police.

      Dedication

      To all the hut guardians, known and unknown, whose personality and efforts add so much to the mountain experience

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      Front cover: The Mönch and Jungfrau, viewed from Schynige Platte at the start of the Tour of the Jungfrau Region

      Opposite page: Secluded among some of the finest of all Swiss mountains, Cabane d’Arpitettaz was built in 1953 by seven Zinal guides

      Contents

       Overview map

       Map key

       Introduction

       1 Rooms with a view

       Huts for all

       Huts for trekkers

       Huts for climbers

       Huts for watching wildlife

       Huts for walkers

       Ten of the best-for huts

       When is a hut not a hut?

       2 Hut life

       House rules

       A summary of hut conventions

       Sleeping and eating

       The hut guardian

       Paying for the privilege

       Not huts – Berghotels and gîtes d’étape

       3 Top ten huts

       Cabane d’Arpitettaz

       Refuge des Bans

       Refuge de Bellachat

       Rifugio Bolzano/Schlernhaus

       Burg Hut

       Cabane des Dix

       Refuge Entre Deux Eaux

       Grutten Hut

       Rifugio Longoni

       Totalp Hut

       4 Hut to hut

       Tour of the Vanoise

       Rätikon Höhenweg

       Tour of the Jungfrau Region

       Stubai High Level Route

       Tour of the Bernina

       Tour of Mont Blanc

       Tour of Val de Bagnes

       Tour of the Oisans: GR54

       Alta Via 2

       Tour of the Wilder Kaiser

       5 Hovels to hotels

       Bivouacs, boulders and caves

       Loathsome dens

       The age of the mountain hut

       The overcrowded Alps

       Between the wars

       The future has arrived

       Alpine Clubs and their huts

       6 Beyond the Alps – bothies, huts and lodges