Alan Castle

The Speyside Way


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      THE SPEYSIDE WAY

      WITH THE DAVA WAY AND MORAY COAST TRAIL

      by

      Alan Castle

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      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      About the Author

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      Alan has trekked and cycled in over 30 countries within Europe, Asia, North and South America, Africa and Australasia, and for 17 years led organised walking holidays in several European countries. A member of the British Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, he has written 18 guidebooks, including the Cicerone guide to the Southern Upland Way. His longer solo walks include a Grand Traverse of the European Alps between Nice and Vienna (1510 miles), the E2 across Europe from Holland to the Mediterranean (1400 miles), the Pilgrim's Trail from Le Puy to Finisterre (960 miles), the Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago de Compostela (620 miles) and a Coast-to-Coast across the French Pyrenees (540 miles). In Britain he has walked all of the National Trails, as well as many other long distance routes. Alan is also an enthusiastic hillwalker who has climbed many of the British hills, including all of the Munros in Scotland. An erstwhile National Secretary of the Long Distance Walkers Association, Alan lives at the foot of the Moffat Hills, in the heart of the Scottish Southern Uplands.

      Other Cicerone guides by the author

      The John Muir Trail

      The Southern Upland Way

      The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail (Cévennes, France)

      The Tour of the Queyras (French & Italian Alps)

      The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central

      Trekking in the Alps

      The Kungsleden and Padjelantaleden Trails (Northern Sweden)

      © Alan Castle 2016

      Second edition 2016

      ISBN: 978 1 85284 868 2

      First edition 2010

      Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs by the author unless otherwise stated.

      Image © Crown copyright 2016 OS PU100012932

      For Mum Cain

      ‘My heart’s in the Highlands, wherever I go.’ ‘Freedom and whisky gang thegither!’

      Robert Burns (1759–1796)

      ‘May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind be always at your back, may the sun shine warm upon your face; the rains fall soft upon your fields and until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of his hand.’

      Traditional Gaelic blessing

      Acknowledgements

      My wife, Beryl, has always given freely of her advice, support and encouragement during the planning and writing of my guidebooks. For this book she has also carried out a considerable amount of research, without which it could not have been written, and I am ever grateful. My thanks to Jim Strachan, former Speyside Way Manager, for his help and encouragement and for reading the book proofs. Norman Thomson, Chairman of the Moray Way Association, gave me much information on the Dava Way, Moray Coast Trail and Moray Way. Thanks also to Pete Mitchell and David Binney of the Dava Way Association and to Ian Douglas, Moray Access Manager. Paul Willgoss has also contributed updated trail information. Finally, I thank Jonathan Williams and others at Cicerone Press for their professionalism in publishing this and all my guidebooks.

      Updates to this Guide

      While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/868/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

      Front cover: Looking towards the River Spey after passing Balliefurth Farm (Stage 3)

      CONTENTS

       Map key

       Overview map

       INTRODUCTION

       The Official Trails of Speyside and Moray

       The Routes in this Guidebook

       The River Spey

       When to Walk

       Which Direction to Walk

       Suggested Longer Routes

       Suggested Day Walks

       Mountain Biking and Horse Riding

       Getting There

       Public Transport

       Accommodation

       Campsites and Wild Camping

       Refreshments

       Tourist Information

       What to Take

       Maps

       Navigation and Waymarking

       Walking in Scotland

       Using this Guide

       THE SPEYSIDE WAY – SOURCE TO SEA

       PROLOGUE

       BADENOCH WAY AND LINKS