Leonard Lueras

Surfing Hawaii


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      The power of sheer power. A Waimea Bay shorebreak wave such as this one can easily buckle or snap a surfboard or person into equal parts of its original whole. Photo: Jason Childs

      On a tamer note, Windmills on Maui can turn ocean power into a thing of beauty. Nice positioning beneath a mirror-glass curtain. Photo: Erik Aeder

      It's a "Standing Room Only" kind of day at the legendary Waimea Bay. Photo: Jeff Divine

      Waimea's outside power retires inside in a frenzy of whitewater. Photo: Jason Childs

      At its glistening apex, just before it breaks, an ocean wave is a form of poetry in non-motion, a natural force exquisitely frozen in time. This one rose at Sunset Beach. Photo: Bernie Baker

      Tow-master Rush Randle jet-skis away from center stage as surfers Dave Kalama (left) and Laird Hamilton (right) drop into Peahi, the Maui surf spot known as Jaws. Photo: Erik Aeder

      Ross Williams blurs all distinctions while performing in a now-you-see-me, now-you-don't, magical, el mysto in-and-out surf act at Back Door on the North Shore. Photo: Bernie Baker

      Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

      Copyright © 2000 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

       ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

       ISBN: 978-1-4629-0936-0 (ebook)

       Printed in Singapore

       05 06 07 08 09 6 5 4 3 2

      While we have tried to ensure that all information in our guides is accurate and up-to-date, the authors and publisher accept no liability for any inconvenience, injury or loss sustained by any person using this book. We welcome comments and suggestions from readers.

      Distributors:

Japan Tuttle Publishing
Yaekari Building 3rd Floor, 54-12 Osaki,
Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141 0032
Tel: (03) 5437 0171; Fax: (03) 5437 0755
Email: [email protected]
North America Tuttle Publishing
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North Clarendon, VT 05759-9436
Tel: 1 (802) 773 8930; Fax: 1 (802) 773 6993
Email: Singapore 36835
www.tuttlepublishing.com
Asia Pacific Berkeley Books Pte Ltd
61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12
Singapore 534167
Tel: (65) 6280 1330; Fax (65) 6280 6290
Email: [email protected]
www.periplus.com
Indonesia PT Java Books Indonesia
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Jakarta 14240
Tel: 62 (21) 451 5351; Fax: 62 (21) 453 4987
Email: [email protected]

      Cover: The soul of Waimea. Photo: Jason Childs

      Pages 2-3: The power of sheer power. A Waimea Bay shorebreak wave such as this one can easily buckle or snap a surfboard or person into equal parts of its original whole. Photo: Jason Childs

      Pages 4-5: On a tamer note, Windmills on Maui can turn ocean power into a thing of beauty. Nice positioning beneath a mirror-glass curtain. Photo: Erik Aeder

      Pages 6-7: It's a "Standing Room Only" kind of day at the legendary Waimea Bay. Photo: Jeff Divine

      Pages 8-9: Waimea's outside power retires inside in a frenzy of whitewater. Photo: Jason Childs

      Pages 10-11: At its glistening apex, just before it breaks, an ocean wave is a form of poetry in non-motion, a natural force exquisitely frozen in time. This one rose at Sunset Beach. Photo: Bernie Baker

      Pages 12-13: Tow-master Rush Randle jet-skis away from center stage as surfers Dave Kalama (left) and Laird Hamilton (right) drop into Peahi, the Maui surf spot known as Jaws. Photo: Erik Aeder

      Pages 14-15 (Title page): Ross Williams blurs all distinctions while performing in a now-you-see-me, now-you-don't, magical, el mysto in-and-out surf act at Back Door on the North Shore. Photo: Bernie Baker Opposite: Gerry Lopez and surf pooch ponder the beginning of yet another endless winter on the Polynesian surfing isles known as Hawaii. Photo: Dana Edmunds

      Pages 18-19 (Dedication): Waimea again, this time as seen from the beach. Photo: Jason Childs

      Gerry Lopez and surf pooch ponder the beginning of yet another endless winter on the Polynesian surfing isles known as Hawaii. Photo: Dana Edmunds

      Waimea again, this time as seen from the beach. Photo: Jason Childs

      Dedicated to Lono,

       God of the Heavens and Weather Phenomena

      CONTENTS

       Introduction