In a decade and a half in Japan, Rob Goss has visited almost every corner of the country—from Hokkaido in the north to Okinawa in the sub-tropical south—in the process writing about Japan for magazines such as Time, National Geographic Traveler and almost 100 other publications around the globe. Of all the places Rob has visited, nowhere draws him back as often or effortlessly as Japan’s captivating former capitals, Kyoto and Nara. The pockets of tranquility and tradition that permeate these cities create an enchanting contrast to Tokyo, where Rob lives, providing rich and varied subject matter for a writer. As any regular visitor will tell you, on each visit Kyoto and Nara gradually reveal a little more of their magic. Each time, you fall a little deeper under their spell. Rob is the author of three other books published by Tuttle: the award-winning Tuttle Travel Pack: Japan, which won a Gold Award from the North American Travel Journalists Association, Tuttle Travel Pack: Tokyo and the NATJA Silver Award-winning Tokyo: Capital of Cool.
Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd
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ISBN: 978-4-8053-1179-0; ISBN 978-1-4629-1626-9 (ebook)
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DISCOVERING KYOTO’S ELUSIVE SOUL
Let’s start with something of a confession: it took me a few years of living in Japan before I “got” Kyoto and Nara. Initially coming to Tokyo after university to teach English for a year, I had very little interest in golden temples, geisha districts and ornately landscaped gardens. As for my take on foreigners who were into Kyoto and Nara, it seemed to me like they had all become more Japanese than the Japanese; wearing kimono, bowing on the phone and composing haiku under the cherry blossoms. All a bit weird.
Then I visited the cities. The way the gilded Kinkaku-ji in Kyoto cast its reflection into the pond before it had me snapping away on my camera like a madman. The colors and aromas of the food stalls along Nishiki-koji were addictive. The gardens of Tofuku-ji Temple were mesmerizing. Tokyo is a great city to call home, but by comparison Kyoto and Nara felt almost serene—calm and mature compared to the brashness and fickleness of Japan’s capital. I’ve always thought that traditional Japan’s soul and mine aren’t really natural bedfellows. With Japan’s ancient capitals, I guess, it’s a case of opposites attracting.
Each time I return, it feels like I stumble on something new. On one trip while writing this book, it was a first visit to the ancient moss gardens of Saiho-ji—eerie and dank, and only accessible after copying out Japanese sutra at the temple. On another trip, I remember sitting on the wooden steps next to Ryoan-ji’s famous dry landscape garden and noticing for the first time a weeping cherry blossom reaching over the garden’s wall. The two cities hold so much history, mystery and allure that I don’t think I’ll ever grow tired of going back. I hope this book will help you discover some of that magic for yourself. Happy travels!
CONTENTS
Chapter 1
Making the Most of Your Stay
Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion
Ryoan-ji’s Zen Rock Garden
Kiyomizu Temple
Nijo Castle
Fushimi Inari Shrine
The Gion District
Arashiyama’s Bamboo Grove
Ginkaku-ji Temple
Nishiki-koji Food Market
Byodo-in Temple
Nara’s Horyu-ji Temple
Chapter 2
Northwestern Kyoto
Southeastern Kyoto
Exploring Gion
Central Kyoto
Northeastern Kyoto
Arashiyama
Southern Kyoto
Exploring Nara
Day Trip to Osaka
Chapter 3
Best Accommodation
Best Restaurants
Nightspots & Entertainment
Best Shopping