The Art Of
Setting
Stones
& Other Writings from the Japanese Garden
MARC PETER KEANE
Stone Bridge Press • Berkeley, California
Published by
STONE BRIDGE PRESS
P. O. Box 8208, Berkeley, CA 94707
tel 510-524-8732 • [email protected] • www.stonebridge.com
Text and artwork © 2002 Marc Peter Keane.
All rights reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA
Keane, Marc P. (Marc Peter)
The art of setting stones : & other writings from the Japanese garden / Marc Peter Keane
p. cm.
ISBN 1-880656-70-1
1. Gardens—Japan—Kyoto—Anecdotes. 2. Gardening—Japan—Kyoto—
Anecdotes. 3. Keane, Marc P. (Marc Peter). I. Title.
SB455 .K36 2002
712’.0952—dc21
2002026819
INTRODUCTION
As people live on the land, as they build their homes and temples, towns and cities, they form the world around them into the shape of their philosophies. Their social structures and spiritual mindsets take physical form—as mass and space, material and void—and become the world they live in. This must be true in all places. I have found it to be true in Kyoto.
The jumble of modern Kyoto expresses the disparate sentiments of its present residents as they struggle with the rapid installation of non-native technology and culture. That struggle has left the city with the gawky awkwardness and blemishes of adolescence, but Kyoto has more than that to offer. Much more. To find it, however, you must know where to look: places like the gardens, shrines and temples, and narrow, earth-walled alleyways. It is there that a deeper current of Kyoto’s culture has been crystallized and given form, and it is there we can return to come in touch with the myriad forces that originally caused those places to be as they are—nature, economy, geomancy, religion. The nice thing is, you don’t really need to study to understand them. You just have to be there. The places speak for themselves.
I’ve lived in this city for just shy of two decades and spent more than my fair share of time in those places. The more they spoke, the more I felt I should record what they were saying. So that’s what I did. The first two of those records, “Boundaries” and “Currents,” were published in 1999 in issues 39 and 42 of the quarterly magazine Kyoto Journal. The others were written thereafter and are published here for the first time.
If you happen to visit Kyoto you will find the city as a whole differs in quality from the descriptions herein. That is because I have purposefully focused on those places in Kyoto that please the mind and nurture the soul. If you look, however, you can still find many places such as I describe, at times well-known and packed with busy tourists, more often secreted away and indescribably still. But, you will not find precisely the places I describe. They are, in fact, mosaics of my memories and exist only within these pages. What I have written might well be considered a guidebook but not one to actual places. Rather it is a general guide to certain basic principles that the gardens, temples, and shrines of Kyoto articulate, and to what we can gain from listening to them.
And a final note of thanks, to Ken Rodgers, for streamlining the flow.
M.P. Keane
abiding an early cherry tide
March 2002, Kyoto
all things are symbolic
by their very nature
and all talk of something
beyond themselves
THOMAS MERTON
CURRENTS
North of Kyoto, low mountains extend in ranks that continue uninterrupted to the sea. Except for narrow strips of open flatland in the valleys, cleared sometime in the distant past for rice fields and hamlets, the mountains are covered by thick coniferous forests and in places an older, primordial vegetation. The passing wind filters down through the leafy canopy and there, amid endless shadows, it moistens and cools, grows heavy, and begins to flow ever so slowly down the mountainsides toward the valleys below, slipping gently through scattered bracken and piles of fallen branches edged with moss.
At the base of one of those mountains, lying in the path of such a cooling breeze, is a small walled garden. The breeze enters, carrying in the scent of the forest and at times a fine mist that makes its flow perceptible—just barely and for a brief moment. Then the mist dissolves and only the trembling of slender bamboo leaves reveals the currents in the air. Nearing the house, the air slows and meanders in random spirals, pooling above the moss, among the trunks of the garden trees. In cycles it gusts, subsides, then grows stronger again, and though the rhythm of these subtle surges is neither uniform nor constant, somehow they suggest a quiet breathing.
In the garden, just beyond reach of where I sit on the veranda, is a round camellia tree covered with large, oval flower buds, pointed and green, protruding above a bed of dark, glossy leaves. The buds are fat like silkworm cocoons ready to burst, and one in particular seems right on the verge of opening, the dark-green sheath that wraps the flower eased open just enough to reveal a glimpse of pink within. It intrigues me and I wait patiently for the moment it will open, hoping I’ll be watching when it does. It’s not the flower I’m interested in, although I’m sure it will be beautiful. No, it’s the moment that I await, the instant of opening, when the bud, fed to satisfaction on the nectar of the tree, will suddenly transform and blossom.
For the past two days I have been staying with a poet who lives here on the outskirts of Kyoto. The garden is to the rear of his old wooden house, just where the slope of the mountain levels to the valley floor. A quiet place, the garden has more in common with the mellow rhythms of the forest than the urgency of the nearby city, and the earthen wall that surrounds it is only partially successful at dividing it from the woods beyond. The breeze, of course, ignores all such borders; a large camphor tree and a stand of tall bamboo arch over the garden from outside the wall, casting pools of shade that foster a velvet moss; a small brook winds under the wall and murmurs quietly past me, half-hidden by azaleas and tufts of ferns.
Suddenly the sound of clattering plates comes from the next room. My host, Yukio, now in his mid-seventies, must be getting up and about. He’s a character, endearingly old-fashioned. More often than not he strolls about in wooden sandals and kimono, sporting a dapper, wide-brimmed linen hat in the turn-of-the-century Taisho style. Like his clothes, his house is traditionally appointed, except for the veranda where I now sit and on which he has set two low rattan chairs and a small table. He enjoys nothing more than entertaining his guests there, within arm’s reach of the garden.
Called an engawa, the veranda is less than a meter wide, floored with long, slim planks of fine-grained wood now smooth and dark from years of use. It serves as both a corridor connecting the rooms of the house and as a place from which to enjoy the garden. Sitting here alone today, sipping pale green tea, I watch the morning light fall softly over the budding camellia, reflecting on when I last saw the garden—how then, as now, it seemed to capture a moment of time.