Tony Allan

Tony & Giorgio


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top of the cabbage and insert the bacon, butter and a little seasoning. Wrap tightly in foil and place in the oven with the pork for the last hour of cooking.

      When ready to serve, remove the pork from the roasting tin and leave to rest in a warm place (if the crackling hasn’t crisped up, raise the oven temperature to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6 and give it another 5-10 minutes first). Place the roasting tin on the hob. Heat gently, scraping up all the caramelised vegetables and meat from the bottom of the tin. Add the white wine and simmer rapidly until reduced by half. Pour in the remaining stock and simmer for a further 5 minutes, pressing the vegetables to a pulp, to make a gravy. Strain though a fine sieve and adjust the seasoning.

      Slice the pork, cut the cabbage into wedges and serve with the apple sauce and

      gravy.

      Pappardelle ai fegatini di pollo, salvia e tartufo nero

      Pappardelle with chicken livers, sags and black truffle

      Some people, like my good friend Vincenzo Borgonzolo who owns the restaurant, Al San Vincenzo, in London, cook with a natural Italian accent. Whatever he cooks it’s going to taste and feel Italian. Whenever I make something like this pappardelle dish with its honest Italian flavours combined with the luxurious aroma truffle, it reminds me of Vincenzo’s wonderful approach to food.

      The best time to buy truffles is in late autumn and early winter, when you’ll find them in the larger food halls and Italian delis. Even without truffles, this dish tastes great. Giorgio

      Serves 4

       350g/12 oz pappardelle

       1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

       6 chicken livers, cut into 1.5cm/⅔in dice

       6 small sage leaves, chopped

       1 tablespoon brandy

       25g/1 oz butter, melted

       4–5 thin slices of fresh black truffle

       sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

      Cook the pappardelle in a large pot of boiling salted water for about 8 minutes, until al dente – tender but still firm to the bite.

      Meanwhile, place a heavy-based frying pan over a high heat to warm up. Add the olive oil, then the chicken livers and chopped sage. Season, then stir constantly for a minute or so, until the livers start to colour. Add the brandy and, standing well back, set it alight with a match to burn off the alcohol but leave the flavour. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

      Drain the cooked pasta (reserving a little of the cooking water). Return the chicken livers to a medium heat and add the pasta, with about a tablespoon of the cooking water. Toss well and stir in the melted butter.

      Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter the slices of black truffle on top, if you have them. If not, it doesn’t matter. Serve straight away.

      Salt beef with carrots and mustard dumplings

      Salt beef with carrots and mustard dumplings

      To salt your own beef takes over a week, so it’s far easier and much more practical to buy a pre-salted piece from your butcher (silverside works well), soak it first and then cook it slowly in the oven. This is like all my best childhood memories served up on a plate. Tony

      Serves 6

       2.25kg/5lb joint of salt beef

       25g/1 oz butter

       500g/1lb 2 oz baby carrots, trimmed

       2 tablespoons sugar

       1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

       chopped parsley

       sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

       For the dumplings:

       6 slices of white bread, crusts

       removed 1 teaspoon English mustard

      Soak the salt beef in cold water for 24 hours, changing the water twice.

      Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2. Drain the beef and place it in a close-fitting casserole with about 300ml/½ pint boiling water. Cover the casserole with 2 layers of greaseproof paper or foil so that the juices cannot evaporate, then cover with a lid. Place in the oven and cook for 3 hours, until the meat is so tender it is almost falling apart. Remove from the oven and leave in the casserole for about 20 minutes.

      For the dumplings, break the bread into pieces and place in a bowl with the mustard and 150ml/¼ pint of the stock from cooking the beef. Season with salt and pepper and mix to a paste. Roll into small balls about the size of a walnut and set aside.

      For the carrots, heat the butter in a saucepan, add the carrots, sugar and a ladleful of the beef stock and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes, until the carrots are tender and all the juices in the pan have reduced down to a syrup.

      Bring a small saucepan of the salt beef stock to the boil, add the dumplings and simmer for 4-5 minutes.

      Heat 150ml/¼ pint of the remaining stock with the Worcestershire sauce. Serve each person 4 slices of the beef with some carrots, dumplings and a ladleful of stock, and a little parsley.

      Coniglio al forno con prosciutto crudo e polenta

      Rabbit with Parma ham and polenta

      This was inspired by a dish my grandmother, Vicenzina Tamborini, used to make when I was a boy. Rabbit and polenta are natural companions, and they work even better with the saltiness of the ham and the bitterness of the radicchio. If you can’t find radicchio trevisano, use ordinary radicchio instead. Giorgio

      Serves 6

       6 rabbit legs, boned

       12 thin slices of Parma ham

       2 tablespoons groundnut oil

       50g/2 oz butter 500g/1lb

       2 oz lard, melted

       125g/4 oz polenta

       1.2 litres/2 pints milk

       2 heads of radicchio trevisano

       sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

      Preheat the oven to 120°C/250°F/Gas Mark ½. Wrap each rabbit leg in 2 slices of Parma ham. Heat half the oil in a large shallow casserole and place the rabbit legs in it. Fry over a medium heat until they start to colour, then add the butter. Turn the legs over and cook for a further 2 minutes. Cover the legs completely with the melted lard, then cover with foil and cook very gently in the oven for 1 hour, until very tender.

      Meanwhile,