Olaus J. Murie

Journeys to the Far North


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and went back to camp.” At daybreak, he found that his plan had worked. “The wolverine had his feed, the museum had the specimen, and the dogs and I still had a supply of camp food.”

      I first met Olaus Murie in the summer of 1937, when we lived on the motorship Brown Bear and made a wildlife inventory of the Aleutian Islands. I saw him last in the summer of 1958, when we joined Justice William O. Douglas on a three-day hike along the Olympic seacoast of Washington in an effort to save the wild character of a few miles of that beach. He wrote to me on October 16, 1958. “I am sorry to see that so many in high places [of government] look upon the ocean as a place in which to dump things. It is about time we began to look upon the world as a whole unit, an ecological unit for man.” He saw, of course, what all naturalists in the great tradition have seen so clearly, that a man cannot separate himself from nature and remain a whole man.

      As a man grows in knowledge of nature—or wilderness, if you wish— he also grows in humility. Long ago the word humility was related to humus, the soil. The truly educated man understands and respects his binding relationship to the soil—to the earth.

      Let me quote a few flashes from Murie’s book and from memory, to illustrate his lifelong engagement with nature, a relationship in which he was wholly accepting, loving, and confident.

      On a snowy trail in Alaska he wrote, “I have seen my lead dog, Snook, sail into a mass of fighting dogs with what appeared to be a smile on his face. . . . I suppose we can say that we [humans] simply share with the dogs the joyous impulse to ‘do’.”

      Again, “This was a hungry country. I learned to eat hawks, owls, sea birds—anything that had meat on it. The Indians up here lived a most rugged life; yet they somehow had a kind view of nature, like the hunters who begged the bear’s pardon before shooting it.” Later: “Annie boiled some bear feet, wristlets of fur still on them—we didn’t mind appearances, and they tasted good.” And, “I am convinced that in the evolution of the human spirit something much worse than hunger can happen to a race of people.”

      On the trail to Rainy Pass, he suffered two sleepless nights with toothache. Using a ptarmigan-feather brush, he painted both sides of the gum with tincture of iodine. “Immediately the pain of this remedy was much greater than the toothache it was to cure. . . . Next morning all pain was gone, and I had no more trouble until I reached Fairbanks and a dentist in the spring.”

      Indeed, as Olaus once remarked, adversity is good for the soul, and every father should take it upon himself to introduce struggle in the life of his son.

      For thirty-one years, from 1914 to 1945, Murie earned a living as a field biologist, mainly in northern Canada and Alaska, first for the Carnegie Museum and last for the United States Fish and Wildlife Service. Earlier, he spent two years as a game warden in Oregon, a job which I doubt that he could have cared for. Offers of higher pay and administrative power left him cold. He wanted only to travel, collect, and see—to tease out the relationships between living things and their environment. He became increasingly interested in origins. How did the alpine saxifrage reach the New World? How could a little band of caribou persist in this or that isolated pass? What are the implications—or carryovers—of wildlife behavior in the behavior of human beings?

      So intensively did he feel the colors, shapes, and mysteries of the outdoor world that he had to share them with others. On his first trip to the Canadian Arctic in 1914, when every ounce of weight was a burden, he carried a bulky Graflex camera and sketching materials. He knew the value of a diary, which is to say that he had a sense of history. The beautiful paintings that he left to us are not “art for art’s sake,” but rather expressions of a sensitive teacher who wanted others to stand on the mountain top and see what his eyes had seen.

      “We found something to admire in one another,” he wrote of his Indian guides. To the best of my knowledge, he liked everyone. He was puzzled at meanness because, I think, he had a feeling that meanness was a waste of time. His way of approaching strangers (such as the Attu Islanders) resembled his way of approaching animals—slowly and warily, but with childlike trust. I used to think him shy; but later I saw that he was simply waiting for “something to admire.”

      When I last talked to Olaus, he spoke in distress of the Computer Age, artificiality, and of man’s abuse of the wild places of earth. I said, smiling, that he was now an ecologist and ought to be happy with his new title. He wrinkled his nose and said “Gee!” In his heart he had not changed. The truths he recognized early and spent a lifetime shaping into words and pictures were still the same old truths. He knew it, and I knew it.

      FOREWORD

       by Donald O. Murie

      My mother, Margaret (Mardy) Murie was invited to attend a ceremony at the White House on January 15, 1998. She was ninety-six years old, confined to a wheelchair and had around-the-clock caretakers at her log house at Moose, Wyoming. I received phone calls from people concerned the trip would be too difficult for her. A blizzard was predicted. I received calls from people encouraging me to approve the trip; if necessary they had a volunteer who would drive her and a caretaker to Idaho Falls to take a flight from there. A movie of her life was being filmed. The producers were already making arrangements with the White House to film the ceremony. It was a measure of the esteem and affection with which she was regarded; some concerned for her well-being, others for the continuation of her remarkable story. Mardy did make the trip. She was wheeled up to President Clinton to receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom for her lifetime of work to preserve wilderness. She had already received about every award the conservation community had to offer. She was almost worshipped by the hundreds who came to see her, to bathe in her glow, to be inspired. Her autobiography, Two in the Far North, became the bible of her very large circle of friends.

      She was called the matriarch of the American conservation movement. Her life, as seen by the thousands who watch the movie or read the book, was like a fairy tale, from her childhood in frontier Fairbanks to her quiet death in her house in the woods. She achieved much, inspired many, but when asked why she did it she said, “I did it for him.”

      He was my father, Olaus J. Murie, biologist, naturalist, conservationist, artist, writer, educator, quiet leader who never sought fame or fortune. As a child he roamed the banks of the Red River in Moorhead, Minnesota, when he wasn’t working at Bosshart’s farm to help his widowed mother. Those woods became his playground, his classroom, and his library. He and his younger brother, Adolph, practiced wood craft and survival techniques they read about in books by Ernest Thompson Seton, and Olaus began to develop his skill at drawing and painting. He carried his skill and his passion for the wild through college and into his adventures across the Arctic world.

      When Olaus met Margaret Thomas in Fairbanks he found a fellow nature lover. In their walks through the woods he introduced her to the multitude of various elements, large and small, that together produced the wondrous symphony of a functioning undisturbed ecosystem. He read the daily news found in tracks and markings; there where the trail of rabbit tracks end, two sweeps in the snow on either side show the signature of a swooping owl. He could bring the scenery alive; he had learned the language, and he shared it with Mardy, and later with eager schoolkids as well as adults. All through their lives Mardy and Olaus entertained a constant flow of visitors; scientists, conservationists, writers, artists, who came from every continent and all across the United States. They came to discuss problems, share discoveries, get advice, and be inspired.

      When Olaus, at the end of his career with the Fish and Wildlife Service, made a speech to fellow scientists, he shocked them all by talking about spiritual values. He knew his familiar and beloved wilderness was not only a functioning habitat for myriad species, but an essential source of understanding and inspiration for human visitors. He said, “Wilderness is where we learn how the universe works.”

      Olaus began his life in the natural world around Moorhead, Minnesota; he began his exploration of true wilderness in the Arctic and furthered his understanding of how it works, becoming a pioneer of the emerging science of ecology. He helped build a strong scientific foundation to guide conservation policies and efforts. He shared it all with Mardy, who used it in her own style