now out of the trees.
The valley has broadened again, opening to a wide stream-sliced basin. Shortly after, you come to Schrätteren, a rough pasturage with a handful of alp huts above to the left. The path leads on, crosses the Urbachwasser stream and soon forks. Take the left-hand path which climbs on over increasingly rough terrain to gain another 300m or so before making another fork at 1850m.
Both the ongoing trails lead to the Gauli Hut, but the left branch swings round to take the shaft of river-cut valley to visit the hidden tarn of the Mattensee before climbing on to reach the hut. This is perhaps of more interest than the shorter, direct route which climbs over the lower reaches of the Tëlligrat (2222m) before making a steady descending traverse to the hut itself, set in a remote alp at the head of the Urbachtal.
With places for 65 in its dormitories, the Gauli Hut has a guardian in residence in April and May, and from July to mid-October (sometimes wardened in June), when meals and refreshments are available. It is owned by the Bern Section of the SAC. For reservations (Tel 033 971 31 66 www.gauli.ch).
Other routes in the Urbachtal
If Route 4 seems to be rather longer or more demanding than you’d care to tackle, don’t despair, for the valley is well worth a visit no matter what your demands may be. It’s also possible to drive there from Innertkirchen, thus reducing the time and effort otherwise required to explore it. Should you decide to drive into the valley, park with discretion in its lower reaches soon after entering. You should be able to find a space to park just off the road in order not to block it.
By following Route 4 a very pleasant walk may be had to Schrätteren (allow 3–4hrs for the walk there and back; Grade 2). Or, if this is still too far, simply wander to Röhrmatten and back for an overview of a valley that is practically unique in the Bernese Alps.
ROUTE 5
Innertkirchen (625m) – Guttannen (1050m) – Grimsel Hospice (1980m)
| Start | Innertkirchen (625m) |
| Distance | 19km (one way) |
| Height gain | 1355m |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Time | 6½hrs |
| Location | Southeast of Innertkirchen |
The Grimsel Pass has been used for centuries; in times both of war and of peace. It has been used by traders transporting goods from the north of Switzerland to Italy – and vice-versa – and by mountain peasants, hunters, mercenaries and pilgrims. A mule track was the first ‘road’ to cross it, and when the specially engineered highway (mostly used today) was opened in 1895, there were some 300 horses stabled in Meiringen for use in drawing the post coaches over it. Parts of the old mule track through the Haslital are still in evidence, and this walk follows it wherever possible. There are paths in other places, sometimes the walk is on the road itself, but from Handegg, midway between Guttannen and the Pass, a Bergweg is taken through the wild upper part of the route. Note that there is a slight danger of avalanche early in the season.
From the start it is necessary to follow the path which climbs in zig-zags south of Innertkirchen through the woods towards the entrance to the Urbachtal. This leads to the narrow road serving the valley, but almost as soon as the road takes you across the Urbachwasser at Vordertal, break away on the route signed to Understock. Here you join a track leading along the southern slopes of the Haslital. In and out of woods it makes a steady traverse of these slopes and eventually brings you to the hamlet of Boden (869m), a little under 2hrs after setting out.
Go onto the main road here and walk a short distance downvalley to join the old mule track on the true right bank of the Aare, then follow this upstream. The way now leads uphill to Guttannen, the highest village in the Haslital – Handegg is little more than a hamlet. (Noted for its crystals, Guttannen is actually on the opposite bank, but may be reached by a bridge. Refreshments are available there.)
Beyond Guttannen the route becomes more interesting and wild, the mountains crowding overhead. About 2½km above it the track brings you onto the road which you wander along for the next 3–4km as far as Handegg, gained in a little over 4hrs from Innertkirchen. Handegg is the home of a hydro-electric station, the lakes above having been dammed to serve it. Off to the right are seen the cascades of the Handeggfall. Shortly after this you will see a path breaking away from the road on its right-hand side. This is the one to take; it leads up to the Räterischboden reservoir, skirts the lake’s western edge, and comes to the Grimsel Hospice (accommodation, refreshments) overlooking the Grimselsee. Accommodation (beds and dormitory places) at the Grimsel Pass is available at the Grimsel Hospice (Tel 033 982 46 11).
This is an astonishing place; drab yet enticing, eerie but vibrant. There is evidence of past glaciations everywhere. Grey granite slabs scarred by long-gone ice, and the hint of icefields far-off that suggest highways into the heart of the mountains. A wild place it certainly is, and it’s interesting to speculate on the influence the region had on the pioneers of mountaineering – and of the study of glaciology – who came this way more than 150 years ago. See Route 6 below for a route into the heart of the mountains from the Hospice to the Lauteraar Hut. But to return to Innertkirchen, take the postbus.
Other walks from Innertkirchen
Walkers based in Innertkirchen need not run short of ideas. There’s something here for every taste; short, easy valley strolls and long and arduous mountain trails to follow.
The Aareschlucht is one of the valley’s features which will no doubt attract many walking visitors. It’s a deep and narrow gorge, 1400m long and 200m deep with a walkway (fee charged) leading through it. The gorge is open daily between April and the end of October – weather permitting – and is floodlit on Wednesdays and Fridays in July and August from 9.00–11.00pm. (For information: www.aareschlucht.ch)
A high route, nearly 1000m above the valley, can be achieved by going from Innertkirchen to Guttannen along a farmers’ trail linking several isolated alps. First you climb towards the Blattenstock (1849m), then along the path high on the northern flanks of the valley to Holzhus (Holzhausalp; 1931m) and Steinhus (Steinhausalp; 1942m) before descending a knee-shattering zig-zag path to Guttannen. This Grade 3 route will take about 8½hrs to achieve.
A long Grade 2 walk may be had through the Gadmental towards the Susten Pass. 3hrs along a variety of footpath, track and road will lead to Gadmen among charming scenery. Served by postbus from Innertkirchen, or by using Gadmen as a base, the Gadmental has many fine outings worth exploring, among them the 2½hr walk from Nessental through the alps of Staldi and Birchlaui to the Tälli Hut. (Grade 2–3) There is also a steep haul up to Sättelli on the Tällistock ridge for a choice of fine views – either to the east to the Sustenhorn and its glacier-clad neighbours, across the depths of the Gental, or south towards the giants of the Oberland. This Grade 3 route from Furen will require a little over 3hrs.
Furen (sometimes spelt Führen) is also the starting point for a demanding cross-country route over the mountains to Guttannen, high in the Haslital. This Grade 3 walk goes south from Furen into the valley of the Triftwasser and up to the little alp of Underi Trift. From here 1½hrs will lead to the Windegg Hut, followed by a southwestward scramble to gain the Furtwangsattel (2568m) before dropping very steeply to Guttannen. This magnificent route is for experienced mountain trekkers only, and will take 7½–8hrs.
ROUTE 6
Grimsel Hospice (1980m) – Lauteraar Hut (2392m)
| Start | Grimsel Hospice (1980m) |
| Distance |
10km (one
|