Kev Reynolds

Walking in the Bernese Oberland


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– accommodation and transport to numerous destinations.

      Note: Flight tickets can also be arranged through the Switzerland Travel Centre in London (Tel 020 7420 4934, www.switzerlandtravelcentre.co.uk)

      Travel by Train

      With a combination of Eurostar from London’s St Pancras station to Paris via the Channel Tunnel, and TGV to Lausanne, high-speed rail travel provides a viable (but possibly more expensive) alternative for those who prefer not to fly. Currently Eurostar operates at least 14 trains per day for the 3-hours-plus journey between St Pancras and the Gare du Nord in Paris. There you transfer to the Gare de Lyon for TGV departure to Lausanne; a journey of around 4½hrs. Change at Lausanne for Bern for onward trains to your choice of final destination.

      For up-to-date rail information, contact Rail Europe (Tel 08705 848 848 www.raileurope.com). Note that the Switzerland Travel Centre can take reservations for Eurostar, TGV, and Swiss rail travel (Tel 020 7420 4934).

      Under 26? Consider purchasing a Billet International de Jeunesse (BIJ), which enables discounts of up to 50% to be made on international rail journeys. Contact Rail Europe, 179 Piccadilly, London W1 (for telephone and email details see above).

      Internet train times: To work out your rail journey through Switzerland in advance, log on to www.rail.ch, feed in details of the journey’s start, destination and date of travel, and you will receive all the information you require, including platform numbers where a change of train is needed, plus connecting bus services where appropriate. Also SBB Mobile is a very useful app which covers all public transport information.

      Travel by Road

      Should you prefer to drive to Switzerland, note that a vignette (sticker) must be purchased and displayed on your vehicle when travelling within the country. This is, in effect, a motorway tax, the current cost of which is CHF40. Valid for multiple entries during the licensed period shown on the sticker, the vignette can be bought at the Swiss border of entry, or in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre (see Appendix A).

      The minimum age for driving in Switzerland is 18, and motorists are advised to obtain a Green Card from their insurers to receive the same insurance protection as in the UK.

      Major road passes into the Bernese Alps region are the Susten (open June–November), Grimsel (open June–October), Col du Pillon and the Jaun Pass both of which are open throughout the year. Roads are well-maintained, and an increasing number of tunnels are being created to avoid some of the higher passes. The interlinking motorway system is good, and journey times can be surprisingly low considering the complex topography; but expect delays at peak times. The motorway speed limit is 120kph (75mph); in built-up areas it’s 50kph (31mph), and 80kph (50mph) on other roads unless signed to the contrary.

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      Gondolas, chairlifts and cablecars enable walkers to access high paths without effort

      Switzerland’s public transport system is second to none, being fully integrated, efficient and punctual, and of great value to the walker. Railways serve many parts of the region. From either Thun or Interlaken, trains run along the south side of the Thunersee and the north shore of the Brienzer See.

      Trains go to Meiringen and Innertkirchen in the Haslital; to Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, and from both these places to Kleine Scheidegg, before tunnelling through the Eiger to emerge on the Jungfraujoch as the highest railway in Europe. Wengen is also reached on the Lauterbrunnen–Kleine Scheidegg line, while on the other side of Lauterbrunnen’s valley, Mürren is fed by cablecar to Grütschalp, followed by a short train ride. Downvalley a funicular climbs steeply from Wilderswil to Schynige Platte for the start of one of the finest walks in the Alps.

      Railways also serve Kandersteg via Spiez, then continue through the Lötschberg Tunnel to the Rhône Valley and other parts of the country. Also travelling via Spiez a railway runs the length of the Simmental, serving such places as Oey in the mouth of the Diemtigtal, Zweisimmen and Lenk. Going beyond Zweisimmen on a separate line trains also run to Gstaad, which has rail access with Montreux through the scenic Pays d’Enhaut.

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      Distinctive yellow buses are seen almost everywhere; here the Grindelwald bus makes its way to the Grosse Scheidegg

      Yellow postbuses are seen almost everywhere there is a motorable road. The region covered by this guide is admirably served, with practically every village having a bus route to it – if not a postbus, then a vehicle owned by a private company licensed by the postal service. In village centres the main collecting point will be outside the post office (PTT). In outlying areas railway stations will also have a postbus stop, and there are certain strategic points in some valleys without habitation where passengers may be picked up on request. Look for the PTT Haltestelle sign.

      In addition to the network of rail and postbus services, numerous resort villages have cablecars, chairlifts, gondolas etc that the walker can use to his advantage. Where these occur brief details are given in the text.

      Various incentives are available that encourage the use of either railways or the postbus services. Purchased in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre, these are summarised below:

      Swiss Pass This entitles the holder to unlimited travel by postbus, rail or lake ferry for periods of 4, 8, 15 and 22 days, or a month. Discounts are also given on most forms of mountain transport.

      Swiss Youth Pass Advantages are the same as for holders of the Swiss Pass, but young people under 26 can obtain the Swiss Youth Pass at a 25% discount.

      Swiss Flexi Pass Similar to the above, except that validity ranges from 3, 4, 5, 6, or 8 days.

      Swiss Half-Fare Card Valid for one month, the card allows unlimited purchase of train, bus, boat and some cablecar tickets at half price.

      Swiss Transfer Ticket The STT is useful for visitors planning to stay for a period of one month, and gives one free round-trip to any destination in the country. This can start at any Swiss airport or border, but each leg of the journey must be completed on the same day. Holders of the Swiss Transfer Ticket can also claim discounts on most mountain lift systems.

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      The Wilderswil-Schynige Platte funicular gives access to one of the finest walks in the Alps (Route 9)

      Swiss Card An extended version of the Swiss Transfer Ticket, the Swiss Card gives the holder a 50% discount on all further train, bus or boat journeys.

      Swiss Travel System Family Card Children under 16 years of age travel free if accompanied by at least one parent in possession of a Swiss Card, Swiss Pass or Flexi Pass. Non-family members between 6–16 years receive a 50% discount. The Family Card is available free of charge from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London.

      Regional Pass Berner Oberland Covering all rail journeys, lake ferries and most bus services, the Regional Pass gives free travel on several mountain lifts and funiculars, and reductions of 25–50% on others. The Pass is available for periods of either 7 or 15 days.

      There should be no difficulty in finding suitable accommodation anywhere in the region covered by this book. There are campsites, youth hostels, mountain huts and moderately-priced pensions; a growing number of matratzenlagers that attract individuals as well as groups, and extremely grand hotels for those without wallet restrictions. There are also hundreds of intermediate hotels and gasthofs and, in a number of resorts, chalets or apartments available for short-term rent. Package holidays provide another option.

      Official campsites

      Campsites exist in many valleys. Some offer