Kev Reynolds

Walking in the Valais


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several trains each day and the journey time is around 4–4½ hours (timings vary from season to season).

      For up-to-date rail information contact Rail Europe (Tel 08705 848 848, www.raileurope.com).

      By road

      If planning to drive to Switzerland, remember that French motorways are toll roads, and that a special sticker (Vignette) must be purchased for travel on the Swiss motorway system. This is available at border crossings, or in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre, 10th Floor, 10 Wardour St., London W1D 6QF (Tel 00800 100 200 30, [email protected], www.MySwitzerland.com). The minimum age to drive in Switzerland is 18, and both UK and North American drivers’ licences are accepted.

      BAGGAGE TRANSFER

      When flying you can take advantage of a unique ‘Fly Rail Baggage’ scheme which enables you to check in your baggage at the departure airport, and on arrival in Switzerland it will be transported directly to the railway station of your chosen resort. There’s no waiting at the arrival airport’s carousel or hustling your baggage from plane to train. The system is straightforward, safe and convenient, and also works on the homeward journey. But you pay for each item of luggage transferred. When booking your flight, ask for details.

      Note: Only ‘Nothing to Declare’ baggage can be included in this scheme, which is not available on Go or EasyJet airlines, or for British Airways passengers with ‘E’ tickets.

      Switzerland’s extensive public transport system is second to none. It is truly integrated, famously efficient, clean, punctual and of great value to the walker. Schedules are dovetailed not only between different train operators but also to concide with bus services. In short, travel by public transport in Switzerland is a pleasure, not a frustration.

      A main-line railway runs the length of the Rhône valley providing fast and frequent links with other parts of the country. From Visp a branch line (the BVZ) extends through the Mattertal to Zermatt; from Martigny the St Bernard Express serves Sembrancher, Le Châble (Val de Bagnes), Orsières, and the Val d’Entremont; while further north, in Val d’Illiez below the Dents du Midi, a branch line runs from Monthey to Champery.

      For access to the Lötschental, a rail link is provided by the Brig–Kandersteg line via Goppenstein, from where a connecting postbus ferries Lötschental-bound passengers into the valley proper.

      For timetable information visit www.rail.ch.

      The yellow postbus travels practically everywhere there’s a motorable road, and is as predictably punctual as the rail system. In village centres the main bus stop will be outside the Post Office (PTT). Elsewhere the postbus calls at railway stations and main points of habitation, but the PTT Haltestelle sign is also seen at strategic locations such as a junction of valleys or where there’s access to a popular walk.

      Various incentives are available to holiday makers to encourage use of either the railways or postbus services. These are outlined below, and can be purchased in the UK from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London (Tel 00800 100 200 30, [email protected], www.MySwitzerland.com; further information is available at www.rail.ch/sts).

      Swiss Pass: This entitles the holder to unlimited travel by postbus, rail and lake ferry for periods of 4, 8, 15 and 22 days, or a month. Discounts are also given on most forms of mountain transport.

      Swiss Youth Pass: Advantages are the same as for the Swiss Pass, but young people under the age of 26 can obtain the Swiss Youth Pass at a discount of 25 per cent.

      Swiss Flexi Pass: Similar to the above, except that the Flexi Pass is valid for 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 days within a month.

      Swiss Half-Fare Card: Valid for one month, the card allows unlimited purchase of train, bus, boat and some cablecar tickets at half price.

      Swiss Transfer Ticket: The STT is useful for visitors planning to stay in a single base. It is valid for a period of one month and gives one free round-trip to any destination in Switzerland. The trip can start at any Swiss airport or border, and each leg of the trip must be completed on the same day. Holders of the Swiss Transfer Ticket can also claim discounts on most mountain lift systems.

      Swiss Card: An extended version of the Swiss Transfer Ticket, the Swiss Card gives the holder a 50 per cent discount on all further train, bus or boat travel.

      Swiss Travel System Family Card: Children under 16 years of age travel free if accompanied by at least one parent in possession of a Swiss Card, Swiss Pass or Flexi Pass. Non-family members between 6 and 16 years old receive a 50 per cent discount. The Family Card is available free of charge from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London.

      Regionalpass Oberwallis: Within the Oberwallis region (the German-speaking part of the canton), this 7-day pass gives 3 days free travel – simply enter the days of your choice on the pass – and reductions of 50 and 25 per cent on the other 4 days. The Regional Pass can be obtained from all public transport stations and tourist offices in the Oberwallis.

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      Gspon, above the Saastal’s entrance, with the Bietschhorn as a backdrop (Walk 16)

      A wide range of accommodation is available within the area covered by this guidebook, from the most basic campsite to the ultimate in hotel luxury. Outline details are given within the main body of this guide, but for specific information you are advised to contact the local tourist offices, which can usually supply printed lists of facilities, addresses and prices (tourist office contact details are given in the introductory section of each valley covered in the guide). It is perhaps worth stressing that good accommodation may not be as expensive as imagined. Prices are often more modest than the official star-rating might suggest.

      Official campsites

      Most of the region’s valleys have official campsites. Some of these are rather basic, although the majority have first-class toilet and washing blocks, and some boast laundry facilities and drying rooms. Do not assume that the larger the resort, the better the campsite, for the converse is often true! Note that off-site camping in Switzerland is officially forbidden. Annual lists of camping and caravan sites are published by the Touring Club of Switzerland (www.tcs.ch) and the Swiss Camping Association (www.campingswiss.ch). Another website which lists campsites throughout the country is www.campingnet.ch, while the Switzerland Travel Centre will send a camping guide to the Valais on request.

      Youth hostels

      Swiss Youth Hostels (Auberge de Jeunesse Suisse or Schweizer Jugendherbergen) provide reasonably priced accommodation, are affiliated to Hostelling International, and are open to all young people holding a current membership card. Small dormitories and family rooms are generally available. For a current list visit www.youthhostel.ch or contact Schweizer Jugendherbergen, Schaffhauserstr. 14, Postfach, CH-8042 Zürich.

      Gîtes d’étape

      In many respects a gîte d’étape is like a private youth hostel, with modestly priced dormitory accommodation, communal washrooms and, usually, meals provided. Almost exclusively aimed at walkers and trekkers, a few of these establishments exist within the area covered by this guide. Again, contact the local tourist office for specific addresses.

      Dortoirs/Matratzenlager

      Several Valaisian hotels provide low-cost communal dormitories in addition to standard bedrooms. Some have traditional two-tier bunk beds, others merely a supply of mattresses on the floor of a large room. Enquire at the