alpenglow on Le Sirac, as seen from Refuge de Vallonpierre (Routes 39–42)
The upper reaches of the Vallon de Lanchâtra (Route 55)
Mont Pelvoux, viewed from the Vallon de Clapouse (Route 33)
INTRODUCTION
Variously known as the Massif des Écrins, Oisans, Haut Dauphiné or Massif du Pelvoux, the area covered by this guidebook is arguably one of the most visually spectacular in all the Alps. Hung about with glaciers, more than 100 peaks rise to well over 3000m (the Barre des Écrins, which gives its name to the area, is 4102m), while in several valleys rock walls soar to jagged summits too steep to contain either permanent snow or ice. Not surprisingly, for well over 100 years the Massif des Écrins has attracted climbers at the top end of the sport with its wealth of routes – both rock, and snow and ice – of the highest standard.
But as that great Alpine connoisseur R.L.G. Irving once noted: ‘The Dauphiné Alps have things to offer besides glacier and precipice. Some of the pastures that surround the central chaos of high peaks have long been celebrated for their flowers, especially those behind La Grave and around the Col du Lautaret.’
He should also have mentioned the walks, for despite the severity of the mountains and the depths of the valleys there are hundreds of kilometres of well-marked trails that lead to open plateaux sprinkled with tarns, or to valley basins caught in rocky horseshoes of impressive grandeur, to mountain huts or waterfalls or walkers' passes inking valley systems, Alp hamlets, villages and Irving's pastures celebrated for their flowers. No one who enjoys wild mountain scenery, and has the energy and inclination to explore on foot, could possibly grow tired of the Écrins, and this guidebook is a celebration of the savage beauty revealed by way of its footpaths.
The Valleys of the Écrins
Located southeast of Grenoble and unequally split between the départe-ments of Isère and Hautes-Alpes, the Parc National des Écrins is the largest in France, covering an area of 92,000 hectares (227,332 acres), with a peripheral zone nearly twice that size. This is mountain country par excellence, with the highest peaks forming a block at the very heart of the range, and a diverse assortment of valleys surrounding or spreading from it. Beginning in the north, and travelling clockwise around the National Park, the most important of these valleys are as follows.
Vallée de la Romanche
One of the region's main access routes between Grenoble and Briançon via Col du Lautaret journeys through the Vallée de la Romanche along the Park's northern rim. At its western end Bourg d'Oisans makes a good base, for it's conveniently situated close to a junction of valleys (the Vénéon lies to the southeast) and has good public transport connections. However, the best walking opportunities lie further east, in the vicinity of La Grave and Villar d'Arène at the foot of the Lautaret pass, with the Meije bursting out of the valley to the south and an impressive group of high mountains clustered nearby. Trails lead among and below these peaks, visiting remote huts and wild inner glens inhabited by marmot and chamois. The more gentle country north of the Romanche, whilst lying outside the National Park, also has countless walking routes, with glorious views to the big mountains on the far side of the valley. The multi-day Tour de 'Oisans, which follows GR54 on a circuit of the northern and central Écrins, begins and ends in Bourg d'Oisans, travels along that northern hillside and comes down to La Grave before heading southeast across Col d'Arsine to gain Le Casset in the Vallée de la Guisane.
Vallée de la Guisane
Descending from Col du Lautaret to Briançon (claimed to be Europe's highest town), the Guisane skirts the northeastern ledge of the National Park and gives only a few distant hints of its glacial heartland. The upper part of the valley is bounded by some rugged rock scenery, the middle section is more broad and open, while in the lower third the resort of Serre Chevalier (which encompasses several small resorts) is the largest winter sports complex in the Southern Alps. Created in 1941 it is now equipped with something like 70 lifts which edge close to the Park's eastern border, but these lifts are happily restricted from straying over it. In summer, when there is no skiable snow, the Serre-Chevalier téléphérique, which rises to 2491m, can be used to gain access to a series of high trails that follow ridge crests or descend into neighbouring valleys. Downstream from the Serre Chevalier resort Briançon, on the other hand, is an historic attraction situated at a confluence of rivers in the valley of the Durance. This valley flows south and remains some distance east of the Parc National des Écrins. But at the village of L'Argentière-la-Bessée a road breaks away northwest along the Vallée de la Vallouise leading to the rugged heart of the region.
The upper reaches of the Vallée de la Romanche (Route 17)
Le Villard above Vallouise, in the Vallée d'Entraigues (Routes 30–31)
Vallée de la Vallouise
There are two main centres here: the little market town of Vallouise, and Ailefroide, which is one of the two major climbing centres of the Écrins region (the other being La Bérarde). Though both lie at a junction of valleys, Vallouise is open and sunny, while Ailefroide is confined between huge rock walls, and with forest crowding its outskirts. At the head of the Vallée de la Vallouise there's a broad open plain known as the Pré de Madame Carle. The rubble-strewn Glacier Noir drains down towards it from the west, but above big glacial slabs in the north the tumbling Glacier Blanc gleams in the sunlight. Both entice with prospects of scenically exciting walks among the highest of the high peaks. Despite Ailefroide's reputation as a major climbing centre, it also makes a near-perfect base for a walking holiday, and this guidebook gives a number of first-rate outings from it. As for Vallouise, this has the tributary Vallée d'Entraigues stretching off to the west which offers good walking too, as well as footpaths in the main valley and in that of Chambran to the north.
Looking south to Vallonpierre from the head of Valgaudemar (Routes 40–41)
Valgaudemar
On the western side of the Parc National two main valleys cut into the range with access from the N85 Grenoble-Gap road. The southernmost of these is the Valgaudemar. La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar is the modest base here, located just 9km from the roadhead. The huge rock peak of L'Olan rises north of the village, and there's a narrow glen cutting back to the south. At the head of the valley a mountain cirque provides plenty of scope for walks to huts, tarns and viewpoints, and accommodation is 18 supplied in this upper valley by the streamside Refuge du Clot, as well as the large Chalet-Hôtel du Gioberney at the roadhead.
Valjouffrey
Included in this guide in the Valgaudemar chapter, this northernmost valley on the western side of the Écrins park is watered by the Bonne river which drains west of L'Olan. Road access is from La Mure on N85, with a modest amount of accommodation to be had at Valbonnais in the lower valley, at Entraigues at the confluence of the Malsanne and Bonne, and, for the trekker tackling the Tour de l'Oisans, at Le Désert. Upstream beyond Le Désert the valley has been carved and shaped by a long-departed glacier; waterfalls spray down the steep walls, and nestling at the foot of L'Olan is the Fond-Turbat refuge. Below Le Désert at La Chapelle-en-Valjouffrey, the tributary glen of Valsenestre carves northeastward through the Gorges de Béranger, with a minor road ending at Valsenestre hamlet – another staging post on the Tour de l'Oisans. Then, at Entraigues in the mouth of the Malsanne valley, the D526 offers a rather tortuous crosscountry road route to Bourg d'Oisans via Col d'Ornon.