there’s a transformation from forest and pasture to true mountain austerity marked by craggy crests rising from apparently barren screes. It should be noted that there are no accommodation alternatives between Montdauphin-Guillestre and Refuge de Furfande, and that a full day’s walking of about eight hours should be allowed for this stage.
Having begun the tour by heading roughly eastward, the second stage joins the GR58 proper and follows it southward, across the main Guil valley to Ceillac along what is normally taken as the final section of the ‘official’ Tour du Queyras. Should our walker prefer to follow the standard tour, however, the first day’s route outlined in the preceding paragraph should be ignored, and instead Ceillac reached from Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station by bus, there to begin the walk in earnest.
Coming as we are though from Refuge de Furfande the day begins with a descent to Les Escoyères, a hamlet overlooking the gorges of Combe du Queyras. The route goes down to the main valley road and crosses the river by footbridge. There follows a steady climb, much of it through woodland, to the Col de Bramousse (2251m), but an alternative to this crossing exists, being the one adopted as a GR58 variant as well as by the GR5 later on. The variant leaves the main trail at the hamlet of Bramousse, which is reached by road from the Combe de Queyras, then skirts eastward through the Bois de Riou Vert into the glen of the same name, through which the trail climbs to Col Fromage, there to join GR5. Col Fromage (2301m) lies to the east of Col de Bramousse along the Crête des Chambrettes. As noted earlier, there’s a fine linking trail along this ridge, although as our route is quite long enough in itself, few trekkers will be tempted by this diversion.
Col de Bramousse, with its fine view south to the Pics de la Font Sancte at the head of the Vallon du Mélezet, makes an obvious passage over the wall of mountains that hems the north flank of the Cristillan valley. From it a 600 metre descent leads directly to Ceillac nestling at the confluence of the Cristillan and Mélezet rivers.
Ceillac to Refuge Agnel
The next stage, Ceillac to St-Véran, is normally tackled on the first day of the standard circuit. Although it makes the highest crossing so far (Col des Estronques; 2651m), it is the shortest of our three days, a factor which may encourage the additional ascent of Tête de Jacquette that is easily accessible from the col. Col des Estronques neighbours Col Fromage, and is gained from Ceillac by way of a series of steep zig-zags enlivened by gradually expanding views. An undemanding path strikes away from the col to ascend the nearby Tête de Jacquette, an excellent viewpoint from which Monte Viso appears in the east for the first time. The summit here is marked by trenches and barbed wire, presumably relics of the last war – barbed wire is also a feature of some of the cols on the Franco–Italian border. Over the col the trail descends, steeply at first to a natural terrace, then down a ravine before coming to woodland. Through this the well-marked trail crosses the Aigue Blanche stream at the Pont de Moulin, goes up to Le Raux (dortoir accommodation), then on a road which climbs to St-Véran where there are several hotels, two gîtes d’étape and foodstores, the latter being important as the next opportunity to buy food does not occur for a further four days until we reach Abriès.
Stage four leads to Refuge Agnel, a popular GTA hut situated high in the Aigue Agnelle valley with tremendous views out to the Écrins. The GR58 standard route crosses Col de Chamoussière in the ridge which divides the valleys of Aigue Blanche and Aigue Agnelle, but an alternative fine-weather option goes first to Col de St-Véran on the border with Italy, then climbs over Pic de Caramantran (3025m) and descends to join the standard trail at Col de Chamoussière. Should conditions be favourable, this is the recommended route to take. Views will certainly reward the extra effort involved. Among the mountains in view is Pain de Sucre (3208m), a very popular summit tackled by numerous walkers staying at Refuge Agnel. A Scottish friend who scrambled up this on a day off whilst walking the Tour du Queyras described it as: ‘... a bit like Union Street on a Saturday afternoon ... We didn’t linger long on the summit [but] dropped down to Lac Foréant, then back up to Lac de l’Eychassier and on to Pic de Foréant, a much better summit in my opinion, with not a soul in sight and an equally magnificent view.’ Trekkers planning a second night at Refuge Agnel might find one or other of these peaks worth considering, but only if conditions allow. The ascent of Le Pain de Sucre may be quite energetic for some, and the way could be tricky in mist, but the route is waymarked to the summit.
Refuge Agnel to Refuge du Balif-Viso
Walkers determined to stick to the ‘official’ Tour du Queyras will leave Refuge Agnel and cross Col Vieux (2806m) on the way to La Monta in the upper Guil valley. This makes an entertaining stage, but the alternative offered here strays out of the Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras by trespassing into Italy, where Monte Viso dominates the landscape. The supremacy of this mountain is undeniable. Whether it is viewed from a distant summit, from one of the many walkers’ passes accessible on three sides, or from the plains round Turin, Monte Viso’s signature is unmistakable. From the Agnel refuge a short walk of about 40 minutes leads to Col Agnel (2744m). Over this the way descends into the Italian Vallone dell Agnello which yields lovely views to the Maritime Alps in the south. Then you turn into the Valle de Soustre through flower meadows raucous with the shrill call of marmots. At the head of this a stiff climb brings you onto the Passo della Losetta (2870m), from where a scenically-spectacular belvedere trail leads to Col de Valante (2815m), Monte Viso looming magnificent nearby. Before tackling this belvedere trail, however, the nearby Pointe Joanne (3052m) beckons. It only needs 30 minutes of effort from the Losetta Pass, but the summit vista is incredible – given good conditions, that is. Of course, Monte Viso looks impressive as ever, but the extensive panorama also includes the Écrins, Vanoise, Mont Blanc and even the sharp tip of the Matterhorn far off. Much depends on your planned destination for the day whether you linger on the summit. Should you intend to cross back into France and descend to Refuge du Balif-Viso, then you’ll need about two and a half hours to achieve this from the summit of Pointe Joanne. If, however, your plans are to remain in Italy and spend the night at the Rifugio Vallanta, you should have a little longer to enjoy summit views.
The guidebook tour of the Queyras crosses Col de Valante (Passo di Vallanta) and descends a tight little ravine, then screes, before reaching a tarn (Lac Lestio) from where a trail leads directly to Refuge du Balif-Viso. An alternative to this, as hinted above, adds an extra day to the tour by remaining for two nights in Italian huts. The first, Rifugio Vallanta, the second Rifugio Sella beside a little lake, the latter an extremely popular hut used as a base for climbers tackling Monte Viso, and normally reached by trail from the Valle del Po. Gazing across the lake one sees Monte Viso’s east face soaring in a great shaft, the summit actually hidden, but a tower on the east ridge providing much of the drama in this view. The day’s route between these two huts goes down the Vallone di Vallant, then crosses Passo Gallarino. On the following day the return to French soil is by way of Col de la Traversette (2947m) and down to the Balif-Viso hut. Below the Traversette col a tunnel, the so-called Buco di Viso, was forced in the 15th century as an aid to the transportation of salt from Provence. It is still possible to pass through this, thus avoiding the final climb to the col proper, although anyone carrying a large rucksack may find it a bit of a squeeze.
Refuge du Balif-Viso to Abriès
When the standard Tour du Queyras left Refuge Agnel for the gîte d’étape in La Monta it made a direct crossing via Col Vieux and the Lacs Foréant and Egorgeou. Our suggested route from the Balif-Viso hut to the same destination is a devious one that crosses back into Italy again – despite the fact that La Monta is, of course, easily accessible by a straightforward downhill stroll through the upper glen of the Guil. On our route there are two cols to cross (Col Sellière; 2834m and Col Lacroix; 2299m), with two Italian huts between them. These are Rifugio Granero and Rifugio Jervis. Above Rifugio Granero the 3166 metre Monte Granero makes a tempting diversion, but since it will entail about four hours for the ascent and descent with some scrambling involved, this would be better attempted from an intermediate overnight base at either the Granero or Jervis hut – which is fine if you have the time and energy to devote to it. Once again, a tremendous panorama of mountain and valley is spread out from the summit.
Without the ascent of Monte Granero it will take about six and a half hours to reach La Monta. If, however, this climb is added to the route and you decide to overnight at Rifugio Jervis, the