Kev Reynolds

Trekking in the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps


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against rain, but to double as windproofs. Jacket and overtrousers made from a ‘breathable’ fabric are recommended, as is a lightweight collapsible umbrella – indispensable for those who wear glasses.

       Even in mid-summer conditions can turn wintry above 2000m on sunless or windy days, so a fleece or pile jacket should also be taken, plus a warm hat and gloves. (One of the simplest and most effective ways of regulating body temperature is to either wear or remove your hat and gloves.)

       In addition to protection against inclement weather, it is essential to avoid overexposure to extremes of sunshine and heat – the intensity of ultraviolet rays increases by ten per cent with every 1000m of height gained. A brimmed hat, ultra-high factor suncream, lipsalve and sunglasses should therefore be taken.

       Carry a first aid kit, water bottle (1 litre minimum capacity), guidebook, map, compass, headtorch with spare batteries and bulb, and a whistle. Also a penknife and emergency food.

       Take a lightweight towel and personal toiletries (plus toilet paper and lighter), and a sheet sleeping bag for use in huts and dormitories.

       Telescopic trekking poles have many uses, including aid when crossing streams or snow slopes; they help maintain balance on uneven ground and ease the strain on legs during steep descents, of which there will be many.

       Your rucksack needs to fit comfortably, with the waist belt adjusted to take the weight and eliminate unnecessary movement when walking. A waterproof cover is highly recommended, and a large thick polythene bag in which to store your spare clothing and gear inside the rucksack will safeguard items from getting damp in the event of bad weather. A selection of plastic bags of assorted sizes will also be useful.

       Non-essential items you might consider carrying include a camera (plus spare batteries) – but keep it lightweight – and a notebook and pen to record your experiences. For many outdoors folk a GPS is a must-have item – but this should not be an alternative to map and compass, which you ought to know how to use. A mobile phone could be useful in an emergency – if you can get a signal, that is.

      All but a very small section of the Tour of the Silvretta Alps is found on the Kümmerley + Frey Wanderkarte, Unterengadin (Engiadina Bassa) map at 1:60,000 scale. The only section missing includes Klosters and Monbiel at the start and finish of the trek, but this is covered by the same publisher’s Prättigau-Albula sheet. Trails and huts are clearly marked in red on both maps, whose scale should be perfectly adequate for most occasions. Should you require greater detail, the DAV has produced an excellent 1:25,000 sheet covering all the Austrian side of the Silvretta, as well as a good proportion of the Swiss flank, under the heading Alpenvereinskarte 26 Silvrettagruppe.

      Kümmerley + Frey’s Prättigau-Albula not only overlaps a section of the Tour of the Silvretta, it’s also ideal for trekkers following the Prättigauer Höhenweg where the whole route is covered.

      The same sheet (Prättigau-Albula) includes all of the Rätikon Höhenweg, although if you plan to approach Nenzinger Himmel or Brand from the north, you will need an Austrian map such as Freytag & Berndt’s 1:50,000 scale WK374 which covers the Austrian flank of the Rätikon and Silvretta Alps as far east as the Fimbertal.

      Available locally, a very fine map at a scale of 1:40,000 with the title Schesaplana Wanderkarte shows all the huts and footpaths highlighted in red (the Prättigauer Höhenweg is marked in green). On the reverse is a depiction of the main footpaths with estimated walking times between selected points. This sheet includes the whole of the Prättigauer Höhenweg trek and that of the Rätikon Höhenweg, but does not extend into the Silvretta range.

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      Near the alp building of Marangun d’Urschai, a stream is crossed by footbridge (Trek 1, Stage 3)

      While the vast majority of trails adopted by treks in this guide are waymarked and clearly defined under normal summer conditions, in a very few places the route is not obvious and concentration will be called for. There are also several remote sections where an accident could have serious consequences. Mountains contain a variety of objective dangers, and it is the responsibility of all who tackle a multi-day route to be alert to such dangers and be prepared to cope with them and their consequences. The following list of dos and don’ts therefore contains common-sense suggestions to help avoid mishaps.

      Safety dos and don’ts

       Plan each day’s stage with attention to detail. Study the route outline, taking account of the amount of height gain and loss, and the estimated time needed to reach your destination. Don’t over-estimate the physical ability of you or your companions, but make a generous allowance for delays and interruptions, for bad weather and imperfect trail conditions.

       Check the weather forecast with the hut keeper before setting out.

       Write your details in the hut book before embarking on your day’s trek – this is important in case of accident.

       Watch for signs of deteriorating weather, and do not be too proud to turn back should it be safer to do so than continue in the face of an oncoming storm, or on a trail that has become unjustifiably dangerous.

       Do not venture onto exposed ridges if a storm is imminent. In the event of being caught out by a storm avoid isolated trees, prominent rocks or metallic objects (temporarily discard trekking poles), and refrain from taking shelter in caves, beneath overhanging rocks or in gullies. Instead kneel or squat on your rucksack with head down and hands on knees.

       Know how to read your map and compass, and consult the map and guidebook frequently to anticipate any obstacles, change of direction or fork in the path. Do not stray from the marked way in foggy conditions.

       Carry a first aid kit and a few emergency rations.

       In the unhappy event of an accident stay calm. Move yourself and, if feasible, the injured person (being careful not to exacerbate the injury) away from any imminent danger of stonefall or avalanche, and apply first aid. Keep the patient warm, using any spare clothing available. Make a written note of exactly where the patient can be found, and either telephone for assistance (if you can get a signal for your mobile phone) or send for help while someone remains with the injured person – assuming, that is, you’re in a party of more than two. Should a mountain hut or farm be nearby, seek assistance there. If valley habitation is nearer, find a telephone and dial

       112 (Europe-wide emergency number)

       117 (Switzerland – police)

       140 (Austria – mountain rescue)

       Should it be impossible to go for help, the international distress signal (given at the front of this book) is six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat for as long as necessary. The response is three signals per minute, followed by a minute’s pause.

      Remember …

      There is no free mountain rescue service in the Alps such as we have in the UK, and costs incurred by an emergency, including hospitalisation, are likely to be considerable. However, one of the benefits of membership of the Austrian Alpine Club (www.aacuk.org.uk – see Appendix C) is mountain rescue insurance in the event of an accident. At the time of writing (2013) the value of this is up to €25,000 per person.

      Note, however, this does not provide a comprehensive travel or medical insurance and you are strongly advised to take out additional cover adequate to your needs. Read the small print of any policy with care, make a note of the assistance number to call in the event of a problem, and carry a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).

      It is advisable to leave a copy of your insurance details and travel and trek itinerary with a responsible person at home, and to carry with you photocopies