Kev Reynolds

Tour of the Jungfrau Region


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summer high season – when all facilities are open, trails at their busiest and prices at their highest – runs throughout July and August. Given the freedom to choose September, which often enjoys settled conditions, could be seen then as the optimum month to tackle the TJR. Try to avoid walking Stage 5 on the first Saturday in September when this section of the tour as far as Trummelbach becomes part of the Jungfrau Marathon course. Accommodation in or near Kleine Scheidegg could also be at a premium that weekend.

      For a four-day weather forecast before you go, check the website of MeteoSwiss: www.meteo.ch.

      German (or, to be more precise, Schwyzerdütsch) is the regional language of Canton Bern, although English is widely understood throughout the area trekked by the TJR. A basic German/English primer will be found in Appendix C.

      Although the route described in this guide makes a journey through one of Europe’s most challenging mountain districts, no technical skills are demanded of the trekker tackling the TJR. However, there are several short exposed sections (mostly safeguarded with fixed cable handrail), and a few places where metal rungs or ladders aid the ascent or descent of a rock slab or, as on the ascent of the Schilthorn, a steep section of ridge. Apart from these, trails are mostly straightforward and well maintained, but if wet from rain or snowmelt, or skimmed with a glaze of ice, there could be some potentially dangerous sections demanding extra care.

      As mentioned earlier, the frequency of accommodation and places of refreshment enable the walker to tackle the route without the need to carry a bulging rucksack, but to gain the maximum enjoyment from the trek you will need to be fit. There are a number of steep inclines and a few long stages that will be easier to face if you’ve made an effort to get yourself in shape before leaving home. The best way of doing this is by taking regular exercise. You won’t regret it.

      Once you’ve begun the trek, settle to a comfortable pace and don’t lose sight of your companions.

      Please be considerate when making a toilet stop during the day. Keep well away from water sources, burn used toilet paper, and bury faeces as effectively as possible. Remember that derelict buildings should not be used as public conveniences; they could serve as a shelter from storm for yourself and other walkers. And please leave no litter, but take used packaging home for proper disposal.

      WHAT TO TAKE

       The choice of footwear is of prime importance. Boots should fit well, be comfortable, and broken in before leaving home. They need to provide sound ankle support and have thick cleated soles (Vibram or similar) with plenty of grip.

       Good waterproofs are essential, not only for protection against rain, but to double as windproofs. Jacket and overtrousers made from a ‘breathable’ fabric are recommended, as is a lightweight collapsible umbrella – indispensible for those who wear glasses.

       Even in mid-summer conditions can seem wintry above 2000m on sunless or windy days, so a fleece or pile jacket should also be taken, plus a warm hat and gloves. Note that one of the simplest and most effective ways of regulating body temperature is to either wear or remove your hat and gloves.

       As well as protection against wet and cold, you should be prepared for extremes of sunshine and heat – the intensity of UV rays increases by 10 per cent with every 1000m of altitude gained. A brimmed hat, ultra-high factor suncream, lipsalve and sunglasses should therefore be taken. Wear lightweight layers that can be easily removed in hot weather.

       Carry a first aid kit, water bottle (1 litre minimum capacity), guidebook, map, compass, headtorch with spare bulb and batteries, and a whistle. Also a penknife and emergency food.

       Take a lightweight towel and personal toiletries (plus toilet paper and lighter), and a sheet sleeping bag for use in huts and dormitories.

       Telescopic trekking poles have numerous uses, and will ease the strain on legs during steep descents.

       Your rucksack should fit comfortably, with the waistbelt adjusted to take the weight and eliminate unnecessary movement when walking. It ought to be possible to keep the weight of your equipment down to an absolute maximum of 10kg (20lbs). A waterproof cover is highly recommended, and a large thick polythene bag in which to pack your gear inside the rucksack will safeguard items from getting damp in the event of bad weather. A selection of plastic bags of assorted sizes will also be useful.

      As for clothing and equipment for the trek, what you select can be crucial to your comfort and enjoyment. See ‘What to Take’ above.

      Swiss maps are among the best in the world in terms of accuracy and artistic representation. The official Swiss mapping authority, the Bundesamt für Landestopographie, publishes three major series of sheets that cover the whole country at 1:100,000, 1:50,000 and 1:25,000, while the independent publisher, Kümmerly & Frey, has produced a series of walkers’ maps at 1:60,000.

      While the greatest amount of detail will be found on the 1:25,000 sheets, the specific maps recommended for the Tour of the Jungfrau Region are either the K&F sheet entitled Jungfrau Region (number 18), or two sheets of the official Swiss survey at 1:50,000 – 254T Interlaken and 264T Jungfrau. These should be adequate for most walkers’ needs.

      On both the Kümmerly & Frey sheet and those of the Swiss survey major paths are highlighted, as are huts. However, as the TJR is not an officially recognised route as yet, you will need to refer to the maps in this book to identify the actual trails adopted for the trek.

      Although paths used on the TJR are mostly waymarked and clearly defined under normal conditions, there could be occasions when the way is less obvious and concentration called for; there are also several remote sections where an accident could have serious consequences. Mountains contain a variety of objective dangers for the unwary, and it behoves all who tackle a multi-day trek to be alert to any such possible danger and prepared to cope with any hazards that might arise. The following list of dos and don’ts contain common-sense suggestions based on years of experience, and are offered as a means of avoiding mishaps. With a little attention to detail, the chances are that you’ll experience nothing more distressing than a small blister.

      SAFETY DOS AND DON’TS

       Plan each day’s stage with care. Study the route outline, taking account of the amount of height gain and loss, and the estimated time needed to reach your destination. Don’t overestimate your own physical ability or that of your companions, but make a generous allowance for delays and interruptions, for bad weather and imperfect trail conditions.

       Check the weather forecast with the hut keeper or hotel staff before setting out.

       Watch for signs of deteriorating weather. Never be too proud to turn back should it be safer to do so than continue in the face of an oncoming storm, or on a trail that has become unjustifiably dangerous.

       Don’t venture onto exposed ridges if a storm is imminent, but in the event of being caught out by one, avoid isolated trees, prominent rocks or metallic objects (temporarily discard trekking poles), and refrain from taking shelter in caves, beneath overhanging rocks or in gullies. Instead kneel or squat on your rucksack, with head down and hands on knees.

       Know how to read your map and compass; consult the map and guidebook frequently and anticipate any obstacles, change of direction or fork in the path. Do not stray from the path in foggy conditions.

       Carry a few emergency rations and a first aid kit.

       In the unhappy event of an accident, stay calm. Move yourself and, if feasible, the injured person (with care not to aggravate the injury) away from any imminent danger of stonefall or avalanche, and apply immediate first aid. Keep the victim warm, using any spare clothes available. Make a written note of