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In the heart of Westerham James Wolfe holds his sword aloft, while behind him Churchill stares glumly from his seat on the green
Bear left on the lane signed to French Street, and after about 100 metres break away left along a descending track towards a solitary house, then head to the right on a footpath. In a few paces pass near the entrance to Hosey Cave (barred to keep people out, whilst enabling a colony of bats to enter). The path winds up among woods and then forks. Continue straight ahead, now out of the woods but going along a tunnel of trees. Just before reaching Gillhams Farm go through a gate, then turn left on a drive towards stables. The way then swings right and descends alongside a fence, with lovely views left, before entering more woodland. At the foot of the slope the path crosses a stream and curves right. Shortly after, climb a steep slope on the left by a flight of wood-braced steps, and almost on the brow of the hill turn right on a crossing path. Before long this slopes gently downhill, and continues ahead before veering right to cross a stream on a footbridge.
Enter a sloping field via a kissing gate. Follow its left-hand edge to another kissing gate in the top corner where a path now eases along the hillside and emerges onto a narrow lane in the hamlet of French Street. Immediately before coming onto this lane, note the unusual private burial ground on the right, and a wonderful view left across a valley to the oasthouses of Outridge Farm (see Walk 5).
Nothing could be more typical of Kent than an oasthouse. These conical buildings – some circular, others square-edged – were used for drying hops. The lower, brick-built section contained a furnace, above which the freshly-harvested hops were spread across a thin floor to dry. Standing proud of the steeply sloping roof, the white sail-like open-sided chimney turned with the wind to draw the furnace fire. Once the hops had been dried, they would be tipped into huge sacks known as pockets. Their original use having died out, many oasthouses have either been converted to dwellings, or are used as storage barns.
Bear left along the lane past pretty little April Cottage, then turn right on a drive where a bridleway signed Greensand Way takes you alongside the boundary hedge of a house called Mannings Wood. Bear left with the hedge, soon walking along the edge of woodland – the bridleway here can be very muddy in winter, or following heavy rain. Eventually come to a narrow lane. Take the left hand of two paths directly ahead, which leads down a slope along the Chartwell boundary with views left over a series of small lakes to a vast Wealden panorama.
Home of Sir Winston Churchill from 1924 until his death in 1965, Chartwell stands on a high terrace of land overlooking a great sweep of gardens, parkland and lakes, with a splendid view south into the Weald. It was for this view that Churchill bought the house. ‘A day away from Chartwell,’ he said, ‘is a day wasted.’ Under the National Trust Chartwell is now part-museum devoted to Churchill’s long life and varied careers, and partly the house and home as he knew it for 40 years. (For current opening times see www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell).
Come to a country road by the entrance to Chartwell car park. When the house and grounds are open, refreshments can be had at the tearoom located at the far end of the car park. Cross the road with care and ascend a steep slope on timber-braced steps to a wooded common. Ignoring alternative paths to right and left, continue directly ahead on the route of the Greensand Way, among bilberry, bracken, heather and rhododendron, with oak, pine and sweet chestnut trees providing almost constant shade. Cross a narrow driveway and in a few paces come to a boundary fence. Turn right and continue ahead at a fork to descend a sunken path leading to the B2026 at TQ 448 515. At the fork it’s worth making a short diversion onto Mariners Hill. For this veer left and, leaving the trees, continue between a hedge and a fence to enjoy an expansive view over the Weald.
Cross the road with care and walk down the drive of another April Cottage. When this curves left, keep ahead for a few paces. The bridleway forks. Take the right branch among trees at the foot of Crockham Hill Common. Ignore alternative paths right and left and follow the track (it can be very muddy in winter, but minor diversions avoid the worst places) which brings you alongside the boundary fence of Crockham House. When the fence ends, go through a kissing gate on the right to enter the meadowland of Squerryes Park.
Wander across the meadow veering half-left to another stile on the edge of woods. The course of the infant River Darent, which rises in the garden of Crockham House, can be seen to the right, while the woods on the left disguise the site of an Iron Age hillfort. The continuing path keeps alongside the woods, and when these end, you come to a dirt track at TQ 444 525.
Alternative route
This lake walk makes a very pleasant alternative to the main route, without adding much to the overall distance, and it begins a few paces after joining the track at the northern end of the meadow. When the track forks, take the right-hand option until it curves left through a padlocked gate. Just beyond the gate cross a stile to rejoin the track. Easing through a charming little valley, it follows the course of the Darent which has been dammed to form three narrow lakes – although these can sometimes be hidden by trees and scrub. Remain with the track, which eventually rejoins the main walk beside Park Lodge at TQ 444 536.
The lake walk option follows this track towards Westerham
For the main route, follow the track uphill, curving left near the brow of the hill where Squerryes Farm can be seen below. At a junction of paths go through a kissing gate on the right, walk through a wooded grove, over a narrow field and along a fenced path which soon descends steeply, with views of Westerham below and the North Downs ahead, to reach a track by Park Lodge at TQ 444 536.
Walk ahead along the track to a pond seen on the left. On the right a concrete footbridge crosses the Darent stream, with a footpath leading along the bottom edge of a sloping meadow. Eventually come to a kissing gate on the left. Through this the way takes you along Water Lane into Westerham opposite the green where the walk began.
WALK 4
Crockham Hill to Toys Hill and Obriss Farm
| Start/Finish | Church Road, Crockham Hill (TQ 443 507) |
| Distance | 5 miles/8km |
| Maps | OS Explorer 147 |
| Refreshments | None on route, but pub in Crockham Hill |
| Access | East side of B2026, midway between Westerham and Edenbridge. Crockham Hill is served by infrequent buses from Oxted, Westerham and Edenbridge. |
| Parking | With discretion in Church Road |
This particular walk is just one of many possibilities in this western corner of the county where footpaths abound and broad panoramas capture scenes of great natural beauty. It’s countryside that was known and loved by Octavia Hill, one of the co-founders of the National Trust, who walked these same footpaths, fought to keep them open, and now lies buried in Crockham Hill churchyard.
Much of the walk has Octavia Hill connections, either through the National Trust, or from more personal association. She lies at rest close to the start of the walk, and within the first mile the route passes a cottage she once owned, a seat erected by her in memory of her mother, a hilltop saved by her for the nation, and one of the Trust’s most popular properties (Chartwell). At Toys Hill there are woodlands named in Octavia Hill’s memory, another cottage once owned by her, and a well that she sank for use by the villagers. As you step out along these paths and enjoy the magnificent views, spare a moment to consider the effect her tremendous vision had on our ability to enjoy open access to this countryside – and give thanks.
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