David H. Mould

Monsoon Postcards


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      Monsoon Postcards

       Monsoon Postcards

       Indian Ocean Journeys

       David H. Mould

      Ohio University Press

      Athens

      Ohio University Press, Athens, Ohio 45701

       ohioswallow.com

      © 2019 by Ohio University Press

      All rights reserved

      To obtain permission to quote, reprint, or otherwise reproduce or distribute material from Ohio University Press publications, please contact our rights and permissions department at (740) 593-1154 or (740) 593-4536 (fax).

      Printed in the United States of America

      Ohio University Press books are printed on acid-free paper

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      Cover photo: Flooding in Dhaka, Bangladesh, July 2017. Courtesy Daily Star (photographer Amran Hossain)

      Unless otherwise noted, photographs are by the author.

       Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

      Names: Mould, David H., author.

      Title: Monsoon postcards : Indian Ocean journeys / David H. Mould.

      Description: Athens : Ohio University Press, [2019] | Includes bibliographical references and index.

      Identifiers: LCCN 2019012001| ISBN 9780821423714 (hc : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780821446775 (pdf)

      Subjects: LCSH: Mould, David H.--Travel--Indian Ocean Region. | Indian Ocean Region--Description and travel.

      Classification: LCC DS337 .M68 2019 | DDC 910.9182/4--dc23

      LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019012001

      Contents

       List of Illustrations

       ONE: Traveling with a Purpose

       TWO: Indian Ocean World

       THREE: Land of the Merina

       FOUR: On and Off the Road in Madagascar

       FIVE: Inexplicable India

       SIX: A Tale of Three Cities

       SEVEN: The Seven Sisters

       EIGHT: Joy Bangla (Victory to Bengal)

       NINE: Swimming to Bangladesh

       TEN: On the Road and on the Water

       ELEVEN: Improbable Indonesia

       TWELVE: East of Boston

       Acknowledgments

       Notes

       Index

      Illustrations

      Figures

       3.1 Richard Samuel

       3.2 Cooking corn in cocottes on charcoal grills

       3.3 On the market at Arivonimamo

       3.4 Lala and Richard Samuel at family home

       3.5 Richard Samuel and brother Lala at family tombs

       3.6 Madagascar’s capital, Antananarivo

       3.7 His pride and joy, a Renault 4L taxi

       6.1 The medieval fortress of Golconda

       6.2 Hyderabad’s Old City

       6.3 Mecca Masjid

       6.4 Can you call Uber for a camel?

       6.5 Two hours on the road and $10 in fares for a SIM card with no credit

       6.6 The narrow alleys of NBT Nagar, Hyderabad

       7.1 With few bridges over the Brahmaputra, most people travel by ferry

       7.2 A river cargo boat moored at the ghat (terminal)

       8.1 Vijai Kapil on a Royal Navy training course at Portsmouth (UK) in 1969

       9.1 Rickshaws and vans push through the water in Chittagong

       9.2 Three days of monsoon rains in July 2017

       9.3 Roller-coaster railroad—the Dhaka-Dinajpur line at Kauguan in August 2017

       9.4 Dhaka, the traffic jam that never ends

       9.5 History under threat—the Water Palace in Old Dhaka

       9.6 Selling garlic at Old Dhaka’s spice bazaar

       9.7 The Buriganga River waterfront in Old Dhaka

       9.8 Two porters in Old Dhaka

       10.1 Getting his kicks on Route 6—Sujoy Vai

       10.2 Traffic hazard—a slow-moving motorized van on the Dhaka–Sylhet highway

       10.3 A nouka leaves the port at Barisal to carry passengers across the Kirtankhola River

       10.4 The port and ferry terminal at Barisal in the delta region

       11.1 On the tsunami tourism trail in Banda Aceh—Noah’s Ark

       11.2 Old Amsterdam in the tropics

       11.3 The Stadhuis (City Hall)

       11.4 Pinisi at the port of Sunda Kelapa in Batavia

       11.5 Sunset wedding on Jimbaran