the point where it dips. That would give it a more youthful style and the colour would be good on Mary.’
‘It’s just right for me if the neckline were different,’ Mary said. ‘And it’s the only dress we’ve seen all afternoon that I like, Aunt.’
‘You are so difficult to please.’ Mrs Holland sighed. ‘I had hoped we wouldn’t have to have all your clothes made, Mary. It would be so much easier if we could buy at least some of them off the peg. Otherwise we shall be spending weeks on the fittings.’
‘Why don’t you let Mary try the dress on?’ I suggested. ‘I could have the alterations done by tomorrow – and if you don’t approve, Mrs Holland, we can return it to the rail.’
‘Would Miss O’Rourke be prepared to do that?’ Her eyes narrowed intently.
‘I think my suggestions will make the dress look perfect on Mary.’
‘Very well, you may try it on, Mary – but I want to see what it looks like before the alterations are done.’
I followed Mary into the changing rooms. She gave me a shy but grateful smile as I helped her slip the gown over her head.
‘Thank you for persuading my aunt into letting me try this,’ she said in a soft, nervous voice. ‘I loved it when the other girl showed it to us, but Aunt Emily said it was too sophisticated.’
‘Let me fasten the back for you … There. Now look at yourself.’
Mary twirled in front of the mirror. ‘It is beautiful, but I suppose the neckline is a bit low. I couldn’t wear it like that. My father wouldn’t approve. He likes young ladies to look modest.’
‘That’s easy to sort out.’ I took a pair of scissors and snipped through some stitching at the back of the heavily ruched neck. ‘We’ll make this much softer here and put a silk flower just there so that you can’t see it has been altered – do you see?’
‘Oh yes, that looks much better. You can’t see so much of me, can you?’ Mary looked pleased with the result of my work. ‘May I show my aunt?’
‘Let me just pin a flower. This isn’t the one we’ll use, but it gives you more idea of what it will look like.’
‘That’s even better. You are so clever, Amy.’
‘It’s what I should like to do – design gowns for people like you.’
‘You should do it,’ Mary said. ‘Let’s show Aunt Emily.’
We went out to the showroom where Mrs Holland was waiting. Her eyes went over Mary critically and then she nodded her approval.
‘That was very clever of you, Amy. How did you know what to do? Most shop girls wouldn’t have the first idea.’
‘I took a course in dress designing at art college,’ I replied. ‘It’s what I’d like to be doing – if I could get someone to buy my designs.’
‘Have you done many designs of your own?’
‘I have a folder of them upstairs. I draw them to amuse myself in the evenings.’
‘I would have thought an attractive young woman like yourself would be courting?’
‘Aunt Emily! That is so personal.’ Mary blushed and looked at me awkwardly.
‘I don’t mind. My young man is working in Manchester for six months. He has to save for another year or so before we can get married.’
‘He sounds like a thoroughly sensible young man.’ Mrs Holland looked thoughtful. ‘Will the alterations be done in your own workrooms?’
‘Yes, we do everything ourselves. Sally and Margaret are very good.’
‘The proof of that will be in the finished article. We shall see what you have made of this gown tomorrow. Come along, Mary. We still have to find you some shoes.’
Mary pulled a face at me as her aunt swept from the shop. I smiled at her but I was thoughtful as I took the gown into the workroom and explained what I wanted done.
Margaret smiled as I entered. She was a pretty girl with soft fair hair and a sweet face. She was a year older than me, but had been at work since she left school at fifteen.
She looked at what I’d done and then nodded her understanding.
‘Yes, I can see what you want, Amy. It gives a much nicer, softer effect for a young girl.’
‘Mrs Holland took some persuading, but I think I talked her round in the end. Make a really good job of it for me, won’t you? I think we might get several orders if they like the result.’
‘I shall do my best,’ Margaret said. ‘But it doesn’t look too difficult.’
‘If this works out for us it could mean a lot of extra work for you and Sally, and a lot more customers for the shop if my aunt likes my ideas.’
Margaret looked curious but I shook my head. I had to talk to Lainie first before I told anyone else.
Lainie stared at me as I finished showing her the designs in my folder that evening.
‘I’m not sure, Amy,’ she said. ‘I’ve always stuck to ready-made with a few simple alterations when necessary. Making individual gowns for customers would be a huge step to take.’
‘Yes, if we did it all the time, but we could try one or two of our own designs in the shop. If people liked them we could make them to order for special customers.’
‘But what about the cutting? That takes skill. I’m not sure my girls are up to it.’
‘I was taught to cut patterns at college, and Margaret told me she worked for a tailor for two years, though I’m not sure where she learned to cut. It’s a while since she did any, of course, because she hasn’t needed it here, but I am sure we could do it together.’
‘Margaret has never mentioned her extra skills to me.’ Lainie was thoughtful. ‘If I agree, you would like to show some of your designs to Mrs Holland tomorrow?’
‘Just those four dresses – two for evening and two for afternoon occasions. Nothing else I’ve done would be suitable for Mary, but if they liked the idea I could come up with more in a week or so.’
‘You know she will want to pay less than she would at any established couturier, don’t you? I’ve known Mrs Holland for years and she will never pay sixpence if a penny will do.’
‘I can work out the costs on these dresses and add on some profit for you, Lainie.’
‘And something for yourself. Don’t work for nothing, Amy. I know these people. They have more money than we could ever dream of, but they are as mean as can be. Some of them will do anything to avoid paying their bill.’
I laughed as she screwed up her mouth in disgust. ‘I’ll put an extra ten-per cent on top so that you can give her a discount if she asks. Besides, I think Mary usually gets her own way in the end.’
Lainie smiled at that. ‘I shall make a business woman of you yet.’
‘It’s my father coming out in me.’
‘Yes,’ she agreed. ‘It probably is. Joe Robinson knows a thing or two about making money. I’ve always admired him for that. It’s a good thing Bridget married him and not that Ernie Cole she was sweet on for a while.’
‘Did Mum really consider marrying that awful man?’
Lainie laughed. ‘He wasn’t so very awful then. Ernie was what we called a looker when he was young. It was a bad marriage that turned him sour, and then he had an accident and couldn’t do his proper work with the horses any more – and he was jealous of your father, of course. All that was a long time ago. We’ve put it behind us and moved on. You don’t need to bother your head about any of it, Amy.’