James Fenimore Cooper

Recollections of Europe


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of France.—Military Display.—Fête of the Trocadero.—Royal

       Review.—Royal Ordinance.—Dissatisfaction.—Hostile

       Demonstration.—Dispersion of Rioters.—French Cavalry.—Learned

       Coachman.—Use of Cavalry.—Cavalry Operations.—The

       Conscription.—National Defence.—Napoleon's Marshals.—Marshal

       Soult—Disaffection of the Army.

      LETTER IX

      Royal Dinner.—Magnificence and Comfort.—Salle de Diane.—Prince de

       Condé.—Duke of Orleans.—The Dinner-table.—The Dauphin.—Sires de

       Coucy.—The Dauphine.—Ancient Usages—M. de Talleyrand.—Charles X.

      —Panoramic Procession.—Droll Effect.—The Dinner.—M. de Talleyrand's

       Office.—The Duchesse de Berri.—The Catastrophe.—An Aristocratic

       Quarrel.

      LETTER X.

      Road to Versailles.—Origin of Versailles.—The present Chateau.—The

       two Trianons.—La Petite Suisse.—Royal Pastime.—Gardens of Versailles.

      —The State Apartments.—Marie Antoinette's Chamber.—Death of Louis XV.

      —Oeil de Boeuf.—The Theatre and Chapel.—A

       Quarry.—Caverns.—Compiègne.—Chateau de Pierre-font.—Influence of

       Monarchy.—Orangery at Versailles.

      LETTER XI.

      Laws of Intercourse.—Americans in Europe.—Americans and English.

      —Visiting in America.—Etiquette of Visits.—Presentations at Foreign

       Courts.—Royal Receptions.—American Pride.—Pay of the President.

      —American Diplomatist.

      LETTER XII.

      Sir Walter Scott in Paris.—Conversation with him.—Copyright in

       America.—Miss Scott.—French Compliments.—Sir Walter Scott's Person

       and Manners.—Ignorance as to America.—French Commerce.—French

       Translations.—American Luxury.

      LETTER XIII.

      French Manufactures.—Sèvres China.—Tapestry of the Gobelins.—Paper

       for Hangings.—The Savonnerie.—French Carpets.—American Carpets.

      —Transfer of old Pictures from Wood to Canvass.—Coronation Coach.

      —The Arts in France—in America.—American Prejudice.

      LETTER XIV.

      False Notions.—Continental Manners.—People of Paris.—Parisian Women.

      —French Beauty.—Men of France.—French Soldiers.

      LETTER XV.

      Perversion of Institutions.—The French Academy.—Laplace.—Astronomy.

      —Theatres of Paris.—Immoral Plot.—Artificial Feelings.—French

       Tragedy.—Literary Mania.—The American Press.—American

       Newspapers.—French Journals—Publishing Manoeuvres.—Madame Malibran.

      LETTER XVI.

      Environs of Paris.—Village of St. Ouen.—Our House there.—Life on the

       River.—Parisian Cockneys.—A pretty Grisette.—Voyage across the

       Seine.—A rash Adventurer.—Village Fête.—Montmorency.—View near

       Paris.

      LETTER XVII.

      Rural Drives.—French Peasantry.—View of Montmartre.—The Boulevards.

      —The Abattoirs.—Search for Lodgings.—A queer Breakfast.—Royal

       Progresses and Magnificence.—French Carriages and Horses.—Modes of

       Conveyance.—Drunkenness.—French Criminal Justice.—Marvellous Stories

       of the Police.

      LETTER XVIII.

      Personal Intercourse.—Parisian Society and Hospitality.—Influence of

       Money.—Fiacres.—M. de Lameth.—Strife of Courtesy.—Standard of

       Delicacy.—French Dinners.—Mode of Visiting.—The Chancellor of France.

      —The Marquis de Marbois.—Political Côteries.—Paris Lodgings.—A

       French Party.—An English Party.—A splendid Ball.—Effects of good

       Breeding.—Characteristic Traits.—Influence of a Court.

      LETTER XIX.

      Garden of the Tuileries.—The French Parliament.—Parliamentary

       Speakers.—The Tribune.—Royal Initiative.—The Charter.—Mongrel

       Government.—Ministerial Responsibility.—Elections in

       France.—Doctrinaires.—Differences of Opinion.—Controversy.

      LETTER XX.

      Excursion with Lafayette.—Vincennes.—The Donjon.—Lagrange.—The

       Towers.—Interior of the House—the General's Apartments.—the Cabinet.

      —Lafayette's Title.—Church of the Chateau.—Ruins of Vivier.—Roman

       Remains.—American Curiosity.—The Table at Lagrange.—Swindling.

      LETTER XXI.

      Insecurity of the Bourbons.—Distrust of Americans.—Literary Visitor.

      —The Templars.—Presents and Invitations.—A Spy.—American Virtue.

      —Inconsistency.—Social Freedom in America.—French Mannerists.

      —National Distinctions.—A lively Reaction.

      LETTER XXII.

      Animal Magnetism.—Somnambules.—Magnetised Patients.—My own

       Examination.—A Prediction.—Ventriloquism.—Force of the Imagination.

      LETTER XXIII.

      Preparations for Departure.—My Consulate.—Leave

       Paris.—Picardy.—Cressy.—Montreuil.—Gate of Calais.—Port of

       Calais.—Magical Words.

       Table of Contents

      It may seem to be late in the day to give an account of the more ordinary characteristics of Europe. But the mass of all nations can form their opinions of others through the medium of testimony only; and as no two travellers see precisely the same things, or, when seen, view them with precisely the same eyes, this