German industrial design. Particularly impressive is the ’20s-era Frankfurt Kitchen: this compact contraption, whose cupboards disappear inside one another and whose countertops fold down to reveal appliances, is a space-saving marvel, a triumph of the federation’s credo, ‘function without ornament’.
The section on elektronische Dinge (electronic things) brings visitors up to the present for a look at function and design in today’s gadgets (laptops, mobile phones) – and shows how the Werkbund’s ideas about form, materials, production and accessibility presaged the evolution of the MacBook well before Steve Jobs ever wielded a laser pointer. TE
Oranienstr. 25, 10999; U Kottbusser Tor; www.museumderdinge.de
Map: East E3
03
Rum Trader
WILMERSDORF
At first glance, Rum Trader’s appearance may deceive: the protruding and heavy-rimmed oblong windows shout ‘futuristic submarine’, as if it’s some kind of groovy hippy hangout. But ring the bell and a pleasing contradiction awaits: a bespectacled man appears at the door sporting the dandy’s uniform of bowtie, waistcoat and a blazer inscribed with the bar’s logo. He gently extends his hand in greeting and bids his visitors take their seats.
The man in question is the owner, Herr Scholl; and his diminutive establishment, which can only host around 20 patrons at a time, is more than just a bar – it’s a time machine. One of the oldest cocktail bars in the city, Rum Trader effortlessly transcends the general trendiness of such establishments. Music tinkles softly from a gramophone, dusty rum bottles line the shelves, and bubbles of conversation float up and down from a mixed crowd of young romantic couples, well-dressed clusters of middle-aged West Berliners and the occasional curious tourist.
As you might expect from such a venue, the cocktails are flawless. From the Hemingway to the Mint Julep or Rum Sour, it’s not just the ardour that goes into each one, but the complementary whiff of arrogance. No bumbling amateur, Herr Scholl settles for nothing less than true connoisseurship. Make the mistake of ordering a Caipirinha, say, and prepare to be scrutinised: ‘We don’t serve such drinks here’, he might retort, sharing a look of disdain with his assistant. Herr Scholl can be similarly irritated when patrons ask for his recommendations: ‘You should know what you like to drink,’ he has been heard to sigh.
While this doesn’t happen all the time, such characteristic cockiness, which might seem a turnoff at a lesser establishment, adds to the inherent charm and drama of the place. Indeed, it’s part of what lends the bar its air of timeless authenticity. Order well, and not only will you become acquainted with some of the best rum drinks in town, you’ll also make a new friend. GG
Fasanenstr. 40, 10719; U Spichernstr.
Map: West D4
04
Onkel Philipps
Toy Workshop
PRENZLAUER BERG
How to explain this intriguing anomaly of a shop, with its colourful, ivy-shrouded façade and piles of toys crammed into every available space? Calling it simply a ‘toy shop’ seems inadequate, while its official title (Uncle Philipp’s Toy Workshop) doesn’t quite cut it either. It certainly fulfils both these roles, of course, but it also serves as a portal to another, less contemporary Berlin....
The store was opened in 2002 by the eponymous Uncle Philipp as a place to sell and repair toys. Fuelled partly by his annoyance at how easily East Germans were discarding their childhood toys for Western versions, a big part of his original collection was – and still is – puzzles, board games, playing cards and other curiosities from the GDR; these now mix with modern items like drum kits, remote-control cars, monster costumes, and the impressively large model airplanes that dangle cheerfully from the ceiling.
‘This shop lives!’ declares a sign out front; and indeed, as you explore the warren of rooms inside, it’s inevitable that you or your child will make a doll squeak or a toy dog bark, either by actively pressing it or accidentally tripping over it. On a typical day, Philipp – or his ‘muse’ Hans – can be found guiding customers through the jumble of delights, dismantling and repairing a broken toy, or simply waiting for the kettle to boil on the small stove behind the counter.
Although the dedicated Ost-Shop in the front is where you’ll find the biggest selection of East German toys, if you ask nicely you may be handed a remote control and ushered towards the ‘secret museum’. Pull aside a sliding door to reveal a set of rickety steps that deposit you face to face with yet more ‘Ossi’ childhood memorabilia, this time presented behind glass and featuring yet more beautifully randomised juxtapositions: old dolls and badminton rackets, board games and radios. Pressing the control’s buttons will set off some activity behind the glass – inducing, more often than not, little squeals of delight. PS
Choriner Str 35, 10435; U Senefelderplatz; www.onkel-philipp.de
Map: North F2
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05
Ökowerk Nature
Conservation Center
GRUNEWALD
The northeastern part of Grunewald forest is perhaps best-known for the Cold War spy station at Teufelsberg (Devil’s Mountain). But at the bottom of that manmade hill lies an equally fascinating industrial relic: the Ökowerk Nature Conservation Centre. Heralded by a 35-metre brick chimney, this former water plant, which backs onto the small but charming Teufelssee, was built in 1872 to service Spandau and Westend.
In 1985, it was transformed into a place where adults and children alike can learn about water and explore nature in a safe, informative environment. The center comprises several restored brick buildings that used to host the plant’s handling and filtration systems. Most visitors enter through the Waldhaus (Forest Hall), which is used for events and workshops, while an adjacent Machine House hosts an impressive collection of original wheels, cogs and water tanks.
You’ll emerge into a self-contained wonderland of gardens, orchards and ponds, connected by winding paths and punctuated with items like a clay oven and a solar cooker that children can learn to use, and a ‘barefoot garden’ full of sand. In summer the place chirrups and rasps with the sounds of insects (including mosquitoes), birds and grass snakes. Frogs grunt atop lily pads and bees hover around the abundant foliage, and the gardens boast everything from the edible – salad, ground ivy, garlic mustard – to the poisonous and medicinal, all grown for educational purposes.
The Wasserleben (Life of Water) info center features a permanent exhibition that outlines the history of the water plant and explores all aspects of H2O. A special treat is the Reinwasserbehälter, an underground reservoir whose arched ceilings can sustain echoes for 30 seconds or more. The center offers regular tours and work-shops on topics like how to read animal tracks and a ‘survival training’ course.
When you’re done exploring, take a dip in the Teufelssee or take the kids into the forest to play in the Sandgrube, the city’s largest sand pit, a reminder of the forest’s Ice Age roots. PS
Teufelsseechaussee 24, 14193; S Grunewald, then Bus 19, 186 or 349 (plus 20-min walk); www.oekowerk.de
Map: Overview C3