not careful. Never rub, never scrub, and never polish; always use a light touch. Follow these steps to remove dirt:
1 Use an artist’s paintbrush to lightly whisk off any surface dirt.Be careful not to exert any pressure.
2 Rinse the coin under warm water to remove additional surface dirt.Don’t rub the coin between your thumb and forefinger.
3 After rinsing the coin, pat it dry with a soft towel.Avoid pressure and any rubbing motions.
Don’t use paper towels to dry a coin; the wood fibers in the paper may leave hairline scratches on fine surfaces. Use a 100 percent cotton cloth.
If you have really crusty and dirty coins, soak them in olive oil for a couple of days; then try picking the dirt off with a toothpick. Again, be careful not to exert too much pressure; the toothpick may scratch your coin.
Handle with kid gloves
Several years back, a dealer friend of mine handed him a well-struck (nearly perfect) 1913 Indian-head nickel with full, complete details, and he asked whether Ithought it was a coin made for circulation or a coin that had been specially prepared for collectors (referred to as a proof). The two men were standing at the reception desk of a hotel, and as Iturned the coin over to examine the other side, it flipped out of his fingers and fell about 4 feet to the hard tile floor. Besides feeling like a fool, Iwas even more upset to discover a big bruise on one of the rims of the coin. The bruise destroyed much of the coin’s value and desirability. Suddenly, the coin was most certainly a proof in my friend’s eyes. I was forced (shamed, actually) into buying the coin for a lot more than it was worth — especially for a coin that no self-respecting collector would buy. He found out a lot about handling coins from that lesson, including this: If you break it, you own it.
The following techniques prevent embarrassing and costly damage to coins. Make sure to practice each of these techniques with every coin you handle.
Wash your hands before touching
Whatever is on your fingers will be transferred to the edge of the coin you’re handling. Coins hate sweat, doughnut glaze, potato-chip salt, hamburger grease, and just about everything else, so wash your hands before you handle those beautiful coins.
Ask before removing a coin from a holder
Different dealers use different holders, often in different ways. Many collectors keep their copper coins in felt-lined pouches inside a small paper envelope, for example. The pouches have a single opening. Some collectors place the pouch into the envelope so that the coin slides right out of the pouch when the flap of the envelope is opened. (I call this approach the straight-on method.) Others turn the pouch so that the coin is locked in, even when the envelope is opened. Here’s where the problem lies: Some collectors turn the pouch to the left; others turn it to the right.
Watch out for the holder
Without proper care, even the simple act of removing a coin from a holder carries the risk of damage. The term flip rub refers to wear or damage caused by rubbing a coin against the surfaces of a vinyl or plastic holder. Any dirt or contamination that comes between a coin and a holder acts as an abrasive, and any movement of the coin against the holder may damage the surfaces of the coin. Therefore, the less often a coin is removed from or inserted into a holder, the better.
That’s why it’s always a good idea to ask permission to remove a coin from a holder to examine it. The dealer may prefer to remove or insert the coin or may refuse your request. Don’t be offended; the dealer may simply want to protect the coin. On the other hand, be prepared to make a purchase decision under less-than-optimal conditions.
Handle a coin by the edges
The surfaces of a coin, especially those on high-grade (new or nearly new) examples, are very sensitive and vulnerable to even the slightest damage. I mentioned earlier (in the “Removing dirt” section) that the wood fibers in paper towels can scratch the surfaces of a coin. Fingers and thumbs can damage the surfaces of a coin just as easily. A single grain of sand stuck between the ridges of a fingerprint can scratch a coin. The salty oils from fingers often interact chemically with the metal of a coin, leaving damage that may not appear right away but could show up later and last forever. Handling a coin by the edges (see Figure 4-8) eliminates any possibility of surface contact and surface damage. Some collectors wear thin cotton gloves when handling their coins, but if your hands are clean and dry, gloves are unnecessary.
FIGURE 4-8: On the edge: The proper way to hold a coin.
Keep your mouth shut
Each time you breathe, moisture-laden air escapes from your lungs. Each time you speak, tiny droplets of spittle fly from your mouth. Well, imagine what happens to a coin that has been moisturized in this manner. Virtually all the spots you see on copper coins (see Figure 4-9), regardless of the size of the spots, were caused by moisture of some sort. Therefore, when examining an unprotected coin, breathe through your nose, and don’t speak. Most of the time, you won’t have a problem keeping this rule, because nice coins tend to leave you speechless anyway!
FIGURE 4-9: A single spot of moisture can hurt a coin.
Hold a coin over a soft surface
A soft felt pad or folded piece of cloth ensures that a dropped coin remains an undamaged coin (unlike the coin shown in Figure 4-10). Be prepared to drop many coins in your lifetime; every coin dealer and collector I know has done it.
FIGURE 4-10: A rim nick can happen when you drop a coin.
Keeping Them High and Dry
Moisture is a coin’s worst enemy. Coins are made of metal, some of which is very chemically active. According to the laws of chemistry and physics, your coins will most certainly deteriorate over time unless you protect them.
A coin begins reacting with its environment as soon as it’s struck (made). Changes are subtle for the most part, but some changes may be significant. A copper coin’s color changes; it may corrode or oxidize. This damage often starts as a tiny spot that grows until it eventually eats into the coin’s surface. A single spot is bad enough, but poorly preserved coins may end up covered with spots and/or green corrosion. Naturally, collectors hate spots, corrosion, and coins with pitted surfaces (referred to as pitting). Unless the coin is a great rarity, such damage destroys any collector value.
Silver and gold coins are just as susceptible to chemical reactions. Over time, silver will tarnish or tone, resulting in a film of color that can range from light and subtle to dark and unattractive. Gold is relatively inert, but most gold coins include a small percentage of copper, which is a very sensitive metal.