Egidio Ivetic

History of the Adriatic


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is a Balkan world, or a south-eastern European one. According to Croat geographers, Croatia belongs to central Europe on one side and to the Mediterranean on the other, and it defines the Balkan region (south-eastern Europe). There is also a revival in Germany of the vision of Europe based on cultural regions, Kulturkreise. From this perspective, Mitteleuropa, the central Europe which has formed in the last two centuries includes on its southern side Trieste, Istria, present-day Slovenia and Croatia, and Dalmatia. In other words, central Europe is expanding southwards. And the Mediterranean, as a geographic region, is perhaps retreating. In short, the geography of the Adriatic, especially on its eastern side, is still evolving.

      There is no doubt that multiple geographies converge within and around the Adriatic. The Adriatic area also has a linguistic geography, where its western part is historically associated with Italian, the eastern part with Slovenian, with ramifications of Italian (in Istria and Rijeka), Croatian, Serbian, Albanese and Greek. That is today a total of six languages for seven states. Naturally, there are also dialect variations, the true linguistic panorama of the sea: various versions from Apulia, Molise, Abruzzo, Marche, Romagna, Veneto and Friuli. And then there is the Slovene spoken along the coasts, various forms of Čakavian Croatian, Štokavian Croatian/Serbian/Bosnian/Montenegrin, the two variants of Albanian, Gheg and Tosk, and neo-Greek. And underlying the standard national cultures is the religious and confessional geography. Catholicism is the main religion in Italy, Slovenia and Croatia (four-fifths of the coast), and also northern Albania. The Serbian Orthodox Church prevails in the Dalmatian and Herzegovina hinterland, along the coasts of Montenegro and in the small community of Trieste and Rijeka. The Montenegrin Orthodox Church dominates in Montenegro, and the Greek-Albanian Church in southern Albania. Islam is found in the Herzegovina hinterland and throughout most of Albania, especially in the central part (Durrës and Tirana). Until the nineteenth century, these were lands that evoked the Orient but also a certain Homeric classicism.

      The Adriatic we have lost, just like the rest of the Mediterranean, was a sea that created interdependencies between the coasts, and between the coast and the hinterland. There was widespread economic synergy at various geographic levels, side by side with a migratory mobility between the coastal regions. Everywhere there was an economic and social, and also cultural, dualism between the sea and the hinterland. Regarding coast-to-coast relations, the Adriatic is a narrow sea that has always allowed those navigating it in rowing boats, or sailing boats, or ships with oars and sails to refer to both sides of the sea. From Ancona or Rimini, the Roman trireme, with their three banks of oars, stopped at Pola (Pula) on their way to the Gradus (Grado) in Aquileia. Zigzagging between one coast and the other, stopping on both sides, was taken for granted in Adriatic navigation, which required detailed knowledge of the coast, of the perilous reefs to the east and the shallows to the west. Mastering the Adriatic in a maritime context meant knowing its currents and its shores intimately, having a perception of its size which was measured in days of navigation. Adriatic navigation involved small vessels, which was the genuine maritime nature of the Mediterranean. To understand the intensity of relations between the coasts, the various contexts in the upper Adriatic (lagoons, Istria, Romagna), the middle Adriatic (Istria, Marche, Abruzzo, Dalmatia), and the lower Adriatic (Apulia, Albania, Greece) has to be allowed for. Account also has to be taken of the frequent and predictable navigation between the extremes, such as Trieste–Apulia or Venice–Ionian Islands, in other words the oblique dimension of the Adriatic.

      From all perspectives, the Adriatic reveals itself to be an enormous system that united the coasts and, as a consequence, the hinterlands. It was a measurable Mediterranean. Ancient customs could still be observed here and there up until a century ago: large Dalmatian boats at the Senigallia fair or at Port Recanati for the pilgrimages to Loreto; boats from Chioggia and Burano in the Istrian ports; ships from Kotor tied up in Trieste; boats from Ancona and Fano at Lošinj, Zadar and Split. Photographs and paintings, like the lovely ones by Ugo Flumiani, and postcards from the beginning of the twentieth century have fortunately captured a picturesque world which survived in the age of steamships and the first airplanes. In the everyday world of coastal navigation, there were bragozzi, trabaccoli, pieleghi, brazzere – names of boats typical of the Adriatic, rather than other Mediterranean seas, which continued to be used until the end of