between them, and a narrow breast root. Molded or padded push-up or plunge styles (such as T-shirt bras) help give tuberous breasts a more even and projected shape.
In addition to knowing your breast shape, it’s useful to be able to identify if your breasts are widely or narrowly spaced.
Narrowly Spaced
Narrowly spaced or close-set breasts mean your breasts are very close together and may even touch at the top of your chest. If you find that the center panel of your bra rarely rests flat against your sternum but is instead sitting on top of breast tissue, you may have closely set breasts. Bras with low, short, and narrow center panels (as in many demi and plunge styles), work well and are most comfortable for narrowly spaced breasts.
Widely Spaced
Widely spaced breasts are farther apart on the chest, usually wider than two or three finger widths apart. Interestingly, plunge bras can also work well for this breast placement! Widely spaced breasts often cannot achieve that pushed-together cleavage look, but Marie Antoinette–style cleavage (of the “heaving bosoms” variety) is still an option with widely spaced breasts. Front-closure styles and balconette bras are also good for this breast placement.
Shallow/Projected
Finally, it’s good to know if your breasts are shallow or projected. It’s best to think of shallowness and projection on a spectrum (as opposed to two entirely separate and distinct characteristics) describing how much space on your chest your breasts occupy.
Shallower breasts tend to have a broad base and occupy much of the width of the chest laterally, but they don’t project very far away from the chest wall. Projected breasts cover less of the chest wall (that is, they have a narrower root or point of attachment to the chest) but stick out farther from the body. To use an analogy, the concept of shallow versus projected is a bit like putting liquid into a plate versus a bowl. Even if you pour the same amount of liquid, it will take up a wider amount of space in the plate but a higher amount of space in the bowl. Shallow breasts are usually full on bottom as well (and may even appear “pointy,” especially from the side), while projected breasts may be full on bottom, full on top, or full all around.
Demi, balconette, and plunge styles, especially those with open tops and wide wires, are perfect for shallower shapes as there’s not usually enough projected breast tissue to fill out a full-coverage cup. Deep bra cups with narrow wires are ideally suited to projected shapes and may be found in plunge, balconette, or full-coverage styles.
As always, these are just general guidelines and suggestions. Nothing—not me, not this book, not anyone—can replace trying on bras for yourself and discovering what you love best.
Types of Bras
Now that you know your size and your breast shape, it’s time to talk bra styles. Following are twenty-four of the most popular types of bras. Keep in mind that a single bra can cross two or even three categories on this list (for example: a strapless, cut-and-sew longline or a plunge, wireless, maternity bra). In addition, as with everything else in the lingerie industry, not all brands are in agreement on which terms should be used for which bras. Think of these groups as broad, general categories to help you use the right language when bra shopping.
Adhesive
Adhesive bras are usually strapless and backless, and they stay on the body with medical-grade adhesive or sticky tape, sometimes in combination with silicone for traction and “grip” (hence their other name, stick-on bra). Adhesive bras are the ultimate wardrobe solution, offering coverage and shape for even the most revealing garments, such as backless, strapless, and deep-plunge styles. Their biggest downside? They’re not supportive and give very little lift, a potential deal breaker for heavier busts.
Balconette
A balconette (or balcony) bra is a type of half-cup bra and is essentially a lower-cut or less-coverage demi style with prominent vertical seams. Balconette bras have wide necklines, and, in their most dramatic variation, the top of each cup is cut straight across, giving a profile reminiscent of a balcony—hence the name. In addition to wide necklines, balconette bras tend to have widely spaced straps, making them a potentially difficult fit for people with narrow shoulders (the straps can slide off too easily). Balconette bras give high, rounded cleavage and are a go-to style for those with broad shoulders and full-on-bottom breasts. For everyday wear, balconette styles are ideally suited for low-cut tops. As a sidenote, some readers, especially those who wear DD cup sizes or higher, may find that balconettes in their size range more closely resemble demi cups, and vice versa!
Bandeau
A version of the bandeau has been worn since ancient times, making this the original bra. Nowadays, bandeaus are made from a wide band of stretchy fabric. Usually lacking closures or underwires, bandeaus resemble a shortened tube top and are essentially a less-structured version of a strapless bra. Because of their lack of structure, bandeaus offer very little support or shaping, which can make them a difficult fit for larger breasts but a fun and easy wardrobe option for smaller busts. Bandeaus are typically available in a wide range of colors, prints, and laces, which make them perfect for peeking out from under a tank top or maxi dress.
Bralette
Like the bandeau, a bralette is an unstructured or lightly structured bra without wires and with few seams. Bralettes may be lined or unlined. They may have either front or rear closures or can be slipped on over the head. Many bralettes resemble a triangle bikini top or a crop top. The bra Mary Phelps Jacob invented in the early twentieth century would likely have been called a bralette today. Bralettes are a comfortable, laid-back, no-fuss option, and, like bandeaus, are also popular among people with smaller busts (though anyone can wear them). However, they are not supportive and do little to shape or lift the breasts. Some people like to wear bralettes as sleep or lounge bras at home, especially when the bralette is made from a soft, comfortable fiber like bamboo or cotton. (See here for more information on fiber types.)
Bullet
A vintage style, bullet bras were popular in the 1950s and famous for their concentric circles of stitching around the bra cup. This stitching created a pointed bullet shape (which gave them their other name—torpedo bras). Bullet bras aren’t really worn on a day-to-day basis anymore, but they are essential for pinup or retro fashions. Many people find them to be quite supportive as well, especially if they don’t like underwires. Bullet bras are one of the few styles that can provide significant lift and shaping (although a very specific shape) without an underwire. Those with shallower or full-on-bottom bust shapes may find they need to use bullet bra pads to entirely fill out the cup.
Bustier
Bustiers, also known as basques, are a modern-day version of the corset. Bustiers lift the bust, shape the waist, and smooth the tummy, usually with the assistance of metal or plastic boning. Extremely supportive, especially for all-day wear, bustiers are popular among brides as the undergarment of choice beneath wedding dresses. Because bustiers distribute the weight of the bust along a greater surface area (think of it as an extra-long band … and most of the support for your bra comes from the band), they’re a wonderful option for people with especially heavy busts. (See chapter 3
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