chicken until the nineteenth century and most of those that were distinguished were of foreign origin. Hence, the Poland was Dutch and the Cochin was from Shanghai, to name two that commanded remarkable prices for their ornamental value. Two varieties represented indigenous English stock: Indian Game and the Dorking. The Dorking fowl was unique in having 5 toes. Its flesh was white, and it was the most famous table bird produced for the London market. There were other Surrey varieties, all related (but none having the extra toes), and this is indication enough that the existence of a large market stimulated the development of breeds specific to its requirements. At the first Poultry Breeders’ Show, held in London in 1845, there were classes for Dorkings, Surrey, Kent and Old Sussex fowls.
The Dorking’s origins have been pushed back to the time of the Roman occupation, in myth at least. The Roman agricultural writer Columella did indeed give a description of a five-toed bird which closely resembles it in colour and form. A thousand years later, the early history of the race and its place of origin were still in dispute between the poultrymen of Sussex and Surrey: each county claiming to be the motherland. The facts have never been capable of resolution and the likelihood is a common source for most South-Eastern birds. As London spread over the Surrey hills, so the rearing and fattening of fowl extended towards the county of Sussex, particularly the area around Heathfield. There arose a Sussex system of cramming, with oats ground between millstones tooled for the purpose, mixed with hog’s grease, sugar and milk—this survived until 1939-45. Not all the birds so fattened were of Dorking, Surrey or Sussex descent. Many were imported from Ireland for finishing closer to the point of sale. The fatteners also surgically caponized some of their flock to produce the famous ‘Surrey Capons’.
A breeders’ club for Sussex chickens was formed in 1903 and three varieties—light, speckled and red—were standardized. Other plumage colours, some gender-linked, have been developed over the years. The Sussex has also been much crossed with other varieties of British chickens. It was used with the Indian Game (which, despite its name, has been bred in Britain for centuries) in the 1930s to develop the Ixworth, a bird which has been neglected commercially despite having excellent qualities.
The impact of the Second World War on food production in general and the introduction of commercial broiler-chicken systems from the USA started a decline in traditional poultry farming which is not yet arrested.
TECHNIQUE:
A few specialist breeders still keep Sussex fowl. The poultry farms of the past, using caponizing and cramming, have died out and are unlikely to be ever reintroduced; and the casual system in which poultry ranged freely under the care of the farmer’s wife, who collected the eggs and dressed table poultry for the market, is on the verge of extinction. The concern of those who now keep Sussex strains is as much to preserve bloodlines and genetic diversity as to produce eggs and meat. Because of this and because of the costs involved in rearing the fowl, they are usually kept under close supervision and a system of fold units, or coops with runs on grass enclosed by wire mesh, is followed. Each unit, containing one cockerel and several hens, is moved daily to allow access to fresh grass. Supplementary feed of protein pellets and grain is given daily. The chickens, hatched in spring, are marked to identify the genetic strain, particularly important in flocks which are kept closed—at least one has been in existence since the 1930s.
All poultry breeders who wish to market their birds as meat now have to observe strictly enforced regulations of hygiene and slaughter, requiring the use of an accredited abattoir. There are relatively few of these. The slaughter-houses are obliged to concentrate on one species of meat animal on any given day, and generally prefer to operate with large throughputs. These factors, added to high transport costs, have had an adverse effect on small poultry breeders.
REGION OF PRODUCTION:
SOUTH EAST ENGLAND.
Chelsea Bun
DESCRIPTION:
A LOOSE SPIRAL BUN, SQUARED OFF AT THE SIDES; APPROXIMATELY 100MM SQUARE BY 40MM DEEP. WEIGHT: 100-120G. COLOUR: GOLD-BROWN ON TOP WHERE WELL-BAKED, FADING TO PALE CREAM AT THE SIDES WHERE THE BUNS HAVE TOUCHED. FLAVOUR: SWEET, LIGHTLY SPICED, WITH DRIED FRUIT.
HISTORY:
Chelsea buns have been known since the eighteenth century. Originally they were sold from a pastry cook’s shop known as the Bun House in Chelsea. David (1977) discusses the history of the buns and the Bun House, and speculates that the patronage of the royal family in the 1730s may have helped their popularity. Their earliest occurrence in literature is 1711, when Jonathan Swift reported buying one for a penny and finding that it was stale (OED).
The Chelsea bun as made at the Bun House was thought very light, rich and delicate in the early 1800s, but there is no record of what size or shape they were; it can only be assumed that they were the coils we now associate with them. The Bun House in Pimlico Road was demolished in 1839. Kirkland (1907) said that it was ‘a popular bun in English confectioners’ shops—but, it must be confessed, not so popular as it was at one time.’ Observations by Harris and Borella (c. 1900) show there were various grades baked, and that bakers did not view Chelsea buns with much regard, a situation which has continued through the century. They are to be found in many bakers’ shops and are generally rather large and filling.
TECHNIQUE:
A ferment of milk, sugar, yeast and flour is set. A small proportion of butter is rubbed into the rest of the flour, the ferment is whisked with eggs and more sugar and added to the dough. Once fermented, the dough is rolled into square sheets and the surface brushed with melted butter; brown sugar, mixed with cinnamon or spices, is strewn over the surface, followed by a scatter of currants; then the whole is rolled up and cut in slices about 30mm deep. These are placed cut side down on a greased sheet. The spacing is crucial for, as the buns prove and spread, each should touch its neighbour to give the signature square shape. While still hot from the oven, the buns are glazed with milk and sugar and sometimes dusted with caster sugar. An icing of water and powdered sugar may be used instead of a glaze.
REGION OF PRODUCTION:
SOUTH EAST ENGLAND, LONDON.
Huffkin
DESCRIPTION:
A FLATTISH, CIRCULAR ROLL WITH A DIMPLE IN THE CENTRE, 150MM DIAMETER, 20MM DEEP. WEIGHT: 80-90G. COLOUR AND TEXTURE: PALE CRUST, WHITE CRUMB, LIGHT OPEN TEXTURE, SMOOTH THIN CRUST.
HISTORY:
Florence White (1932) remarked that huffkins (hufkins or uffkins) were particularly associated with east Kent. She described them as ‘thick flat oval cakes of light bread with a hole in the middle’. They have been known since at least 1790. Joseph Wright (1896-1905) cites a quotation from this date. A contributor to Notes & Queries (1869) expresses it well: ‘Most people know what muffins and crumpets are, but in East Kent … the former are known as uffkins.’ Manufacture seems to have declined greatly since World War II; in 1978 David Mabey stated that huffkins had all but disappeared. David Hopper, whose family have been bakers in north-east Kent for several generations, bears this out, but affirms they are still seen occasionally.
TECHNIQUE:
Old recipes show them to be made from a simple flour, water and yeast dough with a little lard, usually in between one-eighth and one-twelfth the quantity of flour. This was kneaded into the dough after the first rise. Spicer (1948) proposes an alternative strategy of melting the lard with hot water at the outset of mixing the dough. After baking, the huffkins are wrapped in a cloth to prevent the crust from hardening. Modern commercial recipes include sugar and milk powder.
REGION OF PRODUCTION:
SOUTH EAST ENGLAND, KENT.