to allow it to be removed. After gathering up the larger material the area should be full-trenched by the second method, so that the remaining rubbish is buried a foot below the surface.
WHY PATHS ARE NECESSARY
If the allotment measures, say, 90 ft. by 60 ft., it is really necessary to have a number of paths, and the better these are constructed the easier the work of the gardener, since work has often to be done in bad weather. In any case, no matter what the paths consist of, it is advisable to have a definite edging. The vegetable plots are naturally raised a little above the level of the paths owing to the cultivation of the ground so, unless a proper edging is provided, the soil gets on to the paths, making the allotment look untidy and uncared-for.
Various materials can be used for separating the plots from the paths, such as tiles, bricks, concrete slabs or wood. The last mentioned is excellent and is possibly the least expensive. The timber should be 5 in. wide and 1 in. thick, and 400 ft. is required for a plot 90 ft. by 60 ft. It may just happen, however, that in some districts one of the other three materials can be obtained even more cheaply, in which case it should be used.
In addition to the permanent edging there is no reason why a “live ” edging should not be planted. The dwarf plants used for the purpose occupy very little space and yet they make the allotment more attractive and also provide a few cut flowers for home decoration. Among the plants which are recommended for this purpose are: Gold Dust (Alyssum saxatile compactum), Alkanet (Anchusa myosolidiflora), Rock Cress (Arabis albida), Thrift (Armeria marilima), BellHower (Campanula) and Evergreen Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens).
MAKING THE PATHS
Naturally enough the allotment-holder does not wish to spend a penny more than necessary, so it is not advised that the best of all path-making materials—gravel—should be used. On no account, however, should the natural grass be retained on the paths, since it requires a lot of attention, while it is also too good a harbourage for snails and slugs.
The grass should be skimmed off, and if cinders, clinkers, chippings, and ashes (coal ashes damped with tar make a particularly durable path) cannot be obtained, the ground should just be rounded off a little, so that it is slightly higher in the centre, and then rolled. It is worth while for the amateur gardener to make a few inquiries locally, because it is often possible to secure a sufficient quantity of clinkers or similar material for next to nothing, save the cost of carting. A 3-in. layer of any available material is ample.
GOLDEN RULES FOR DIGGING
Most amateur gardeners make digging a very laborious task. It certainly calls for the expenditure of a certain amount of elbow grease, but it is not really hard work—when done in the proper way.
There are three methods of digging—single-spit, double digging and trenching, these working the soil to a depth of 1 ft., 2 ft. and 3 ft. respectively. There are golden rules which can be applied to all.
1. Have a spade of the right weight and keep it sharp and clean.
2. Drive the spade vertically into the ground, using the foot to give added pressure as necessary.
3. Always work with a trench in front, for this not only makes it easier to incorporate manure and decayed vegetable refuse with the soil, since they can be thoroughly mixed in the trench, but also makes the actual digging lighter work.
SINGLE-SPIT DIGGING
In single-spit digging excavate a trench 1 ft. deep (the exact depth should depend upon whether the soil is uniformly good down to this maximum depth) and 1 ft. wide, and remove the soil to the other end of the plot. Six inches away from the edge of the trench insert the spade, lift up a spadeful of mould and throw it into the far side of the trench, breaking up the lumps at the same time. Use the excavated soil for filling the trench which remains when digging is completed
DOUBLE DIGGING OR MOCK-TRENCHING
Double digging is practically the same as single-spit digging but, when the trench is opened, the subsoil or second spit of soil should be thoroughly broken up with the fork, and as each section of under-soil is revealed it, too, should be forked over. In this way the soil is worked to a depth of 2 ft.
Double digging is much better than single-spit digging, since the soil is better æerated, water can pass through more easily, and the roots of the plants can penetrate more deeply in search of food. This method is shown in Fig. 5.
THE TWO METHODS OF FULL TRENCHING
There are two methods of full trenching. The first is usually employed, and always when the top soil is better than the subsoil. To trench the vegetable plot by the first method, proceed as follows:
Dig out a 2-ft. wide trench of top soil, removing the soil to the other end of the plot. Follow by taking out a 1-ft. wide trench of subsoil, as shown at B in Fig. 2, removing to the other end, but keeping it separate. Then fork over the third spit of soil (E). Continue by digging one-half of D and throwing it into the back of B; follow with the other half of D, so that B is filled. Next throw one-half of F on top of B at A, then the other half. The subsoil exposed by the removal of D should then be forked over. At the end of the plot the two heaps of excavated soil are used for filling the trench.
In the second method, after taking out a 2-ft. wide trench of top soil, follow with a 2-ft. wide trench of subsoil and fork up the third spit. Then throw the next 2 ft. of top soil into the bottom of the trench and cover this with the 2 ft. of subsoil, and again fork over the exposed third spit of soil. At the end of the plot put the excavated top soil in the bottom of the trench and cover with the excavated subsoil.
THE ART OF FRUITFUL SOWING
Practically all of the crops grown in the war-time gardener’s allotment or garden plot are raised from seeds sown in the open. Sowing, while a simple enough job in itself, must be done in the right way if bumper crops of first-quality vegetables are to be produced. It will repay careful study to learn the art.
Digging is usually (or should be) carried out in the autumn and winter, and the ground should be left in its rough state until shortly before it is to be sown or planted. As the weather improves, the soil should be worked into more or less the proper condition for sowing. After the frosts and snow have acted upon the clods of earth they can be broken up quite easily with the iron rake. The site, whether seed-bed or one of the main vegetable plots, should be raked twice from end to end and twice from side to side. This produces a reasonably fine tilth, or in other words the top soil is pulverised. Just before sowing the site should be gone over once with the wooden rake, any little stones thus being removed.
TO SOW IN DRILLS
The lazy gardener’s way of sowing is by broadcasting the seed, but it is much better, although involving a little more work, to sow in properly drawn drills. Definite rows look better, the hoe can be worked more easily between the plants, thinning is facilitated and the seedlings can be protected, if necessary, by pushing up the soil on each side of the rows to a height of, say, 3 in.
Drill sowing should be adopted, but the drills must be drawn properly. This is the way to cut them. Stretch the garden line along the row in which the seeds are to be sown. Walking backwards, with one foot on the line to prevent it moving, make a V-shaped channel the necessary depth with the corner of the rake, a corner of the draw-hoe, or the homemade two-teethed rake to make two drills at once. Great care is necessary to cut the drills exactly the same depth throughout, otherwise an uneven row of seedlings will result.
THE PROFESSIONAL SOWS THIS WAY
You will buy your small seeds in little packets or envelopes. Taking the line of least resistance, you will probably feel tempted to tear off a corner of the packet and try to trickle the