Cathy Rogers

Dolce Vita Diaries: The Recipes


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Ricciarelli biscuits

       Mandarin breakfast cake

       Hazelnut meringue layer cake

       Oven-baked perch with potatoes, olives and mandarin olive oil

       Antipasti: Meat, cheese and bruschetta

       Spaghetti with anchovies, olives and capers

       Secondo piatto: Breaded veal cutlets

       Contorno: Potatoes roasted with garlic and rosemary

       Seafood fritto misto

       Spaghetti with clams

       Spiralini with ricotta and tomatoes

       Vincisgrassi

       Osso buco

       Saffron risotto

       Spaghetti for hungry footballers

       Cherryand pinenut focaccia

       Fig jam

      Ingredients for olive oil tasting

      Bread – white

      Representing

      Africa

      Mustapha’s Moroccan Extra Virgin Olive Oil

      California

      B.R. Cohn Sonora Gold

      Italy

      Badia a Coltibuono Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Chianti

      Spain

      Núñez de Prado Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Andalusia

      Pour each oil into a white saucer, so you can get a good look at the colour and viscosity. Cut the bread into small cubes. Dip in oil and eat. Simple.

      Word on the street is that the bread can modify the flavour and mask the subtleties of the oil, so, for purists, dispense with the bread and instead pour some oil on a teaspoon, suck it into the mouth with a slurp and wait for it to flow down the back of the throat.

      Ingredients for cold infusions

      Rosemary – a big sprig

      Dried chilli – one large one or several small

      Black peppercorns – a small handful

      Garlic – a whole bulb

      We’ve worked out two ways to infuse the oil. The first is what we call warm infusion, where we gently heat the flavourings in a saucepan of oil for maybe an hour. Then there is cold infusion, where we leave the flavouring in the olive oil for a couple of weeks – the flavour slowly ebbs out in a more natural way. Things like lemon rind or basil, which contain water, go mouldy if you cold infuse them. But on the other hand, when we heat up the oil the result is a bit bland because the volatile aromatic flavour compounds are destroyed.

      Our success stories so far have been cold-infused dried chillies, rosemary and roasted garlic (we nuke the dastardly bacteria with a good roasting).

      Get creative and mix up whatever ingredients take your fancy. You will need a variety of glass bottles, corks and funnels. You are best off sterilizing the bottles beforehand – 10 minutes in boiled water will do the job.

      Simply put your flavourings into a bottle and then fill with olive oil so that they are covered and there are no air bubbles.

      To roast the garlic, preheat the oven to 190o C / gas mark 5, wrap the whole, unpeeled bulb tightly in kitchen foil and roast for about 40 minutes or until the cloves are soft. Once the bulb is cooled down a bit, pull off individual cloves and shove as many of them down the neck of the bottle as you can. Then fill and cover with oil.

      Olives stone-ground with lemons

      Just when we’d really got the hang of infusing the lemon rind we discovered a lemon olive oil from Olivier’s & Co. which is vastly superior and made in a completely different way. In contrast to an infusion, here the lemons and the olives are crushed together in the olive press. The olives and lemons are ‘joined at the pip’, Cathy likes to say. We’ve taken to drizzling this oil on fish and chicken or as a lazy salad dressing (just add a pinch of salt). But best of all we use it to make lemon mayonnaise (gives a citrusy lift to potato salad, or try dipping grilled asparagus spears in it) and lemony ravioli.

      Ravioli al sapore di limone, con burro e salvia

      Ingredients for 4 people

      Plain flour – 300g

      Eggs – 4

      Lemon olive oil – 1.5 tablespoons

      Ricotta – 300g

      Spinach – 120g cooked and finely chopped

      Marjoram – a couple of fresh sprigs

      Salt and pepper

      Butter – 40g

      Sage – a big sprig

      Find a nice big clean workspace. Pour the flour into a mound and make a well in the middle. Break 2 eggs into the well and whisk in with a fork, gradually bringing in more and more flour. Add the lemon olive oil (or normal olive oil for a general pasta). When there is a lumpy mass sticking to your fork turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead for 5 minutes. I find it hard to believe 5 minutes is so long when I knead the pasta, so I make myself keep going for a couple of songs on the radio.

      When the dough is smooth and homogeneous, cover it with a kitchen towel and leave for half an hour. Then get your pasta machine together – we have a hand-cranked Atlas 150, which has been kicking around for ages and remains faithful.

      Cut the pasta into 4 manageable pieces. The trick is to roll the pasta through the machine 10 times on the widest setting, folding it back in half each time. The dough should be beautifully smooth.

      Now work your way down the thicknesses on the machine from 1 to about 6. You should have beautiful sheets of pasta, which you need to lay out on a floury surface. This pasta recipe is the basis for all shapes. In general if you need a bit of elasticity (like for ravioli) use olive oil, if not (like fettuccine)