Fruit Cake. These are the recipes I always rely on – they never let me down. You’ll also find some slightly less well-known bakes, such as my Smørkage – a divine treat hailing from Denmark – and my Chocolate Pain d’Épices, an intriguingly rich and spicy combination. Of course, a chapter on Cakes wouldn’t be complete without a few show-stoppers. My particular favourite is the Brûlée Meringue Cake, which I love to flame to a lovely golden colour in front of my guests for some real cooking theatrics!
For me, biscuits are the easiest of bakes, and in this chapter I’ve provided a diverse range of recipes to suit all tastes. Everyone has their favourite, and for me it doesn’t get better than a simple Chocolate Digestive Biscuit, and they taste all the better when they’re freshly made. I’m also particularly fond of introducing different flavours to my batches – cinnamon and lemon, for example, or cranberry and orange, or even Parmesan and poppy seed (see here, here and here). It goes without saying that when it comes to cheese, there’s no better accompaniment than a nice savoury biscuit, so I’ve provided my Crunchy Oatcakes with Sesame Seeds, and my Cheddar and Herb Biscuits, but be warned, they’re incredibly moreish, especially with a chunk of Brie on top.
In the Sweet Bites chapter, you’ll find a collection of tasty treats to satisfy those pesky sugar cravings. For me, cupcakes always hit the spot, so I’ve included a few of my favourites, such as lemon meringue and Pear and Cardamom Buns. One of the best things about baking is the freedom it allows you to experiment and cater to your personal tastes. The Chocolate and Coconut Flapjacks, for example, encompass one of my all-time favourite flavour combinations – it will come as no surprise that I’ve always been partial to a Bounty bar! If your palate is piqued by something a bit more exotic, have a look at my Persian Almond Bites with Rosewater Syrup, which encapsulate some beautiful Middle Eastern flavours.
With all this talk of sweet treats it’s easy to forget all the wondrous Savoury Bakes on offer. In this chapter, you’ll find a recipe for every occasion. My Smoked Salmon, Tomato and Dill Tart, for example, is perfect for summertime picnics. In fact, I’m especially partial to a tart, and another favourite of mine is the Asparagus, tomato and spring onion version – its gorgeously light yet luxurious flavour is perfectly complemented by the crumbly shortcrust pastry. If you’re having friends and family over for the evening and the white wine is flowing, the Cayenne and Sesame Cheese Swirls and the Cheese and Rosemary Twists are the perfect canapés. Thankfully, they’re swift to make, so rustling up another batch when they’ve all been snaffled up isn’t any trouble! In Savoury Bakes, you’ll also find some hearty, warming meals for those brisk autumnal evenings, such as the Buttery Chicken and Mushroom Puff Pastry Parcels with Hollandaise Sauce, or my Smoked Haddock, Salmon and Prawn Pie. In truth, though, you really don’t need an occasion or excuse to enjoy these savoury recipes – I’ve been known to knock up a batch of Pea and Cream Cheese Madeleines on Sunday mornings for my family to enjoy throughout the day.
Leftover desserts, too, are often snacked on in my household. Desserts are a staple of any baker’s repertoire, and in this chapter I’ve included lots of my favourites. There’s a classic Tarte au Citron with a subtle twist, a traditional rice pudding made with sweet saffron and condensed milk and a Chocolate Pavlova with Salted Caramel Sauce, because who can resist such indulgence? You’ll also find some more unusual bakes that make the perfect pudding, such as the Tarte Tropézienne. Originating from St Tropez, this elegant cake is made from a sweet, enriched brioche and is filled with creamy vanilla crème pâtissière – a real treat, and so luxurious.
Last but not least, you’ll find plenty of mouth-watering dough-based recipes in the Breads chapter. I know many people with an aversion to baking loaves and scones and the like, but, honestly, they shouldn’t be avoided – not least because they give off the best aromas in the process. I’ve provided recipes for the things you’d typically pick up in the supermarket, such as Croissants, Pain aux Raisins and Naan Breads. Trust me, these are infinitely better and more satisfying when made from scratch. And you’ll also find some slightly more off-piste recipes, such as my Jewelled Kanellängd: a wonderful plaited bread infused with the perfume of cardamom. Be sure to try the Southern Cornbread, too – it’s delicious on its own (especially with extra Tabasco) and a great accompaniment to a warming chilli. It’s also a good illustration of how diverse bread can be; from Chocolate Brioche Swirl Loaf to scones and doughnuts, there’s something in this chapter for everyone.
Whether you’re a novice or a fully fledged baker, I hope that this book provides you with the resources and inspiration to explore all that the oven has to offer. These are truly some of my most loved recipes, and those of which my friends and family are particularly fond, too. So, whether it’s a quick half hour snatched on a busy weekday evening to whip up some biscuits, or a long, lazy afternoon dedicated to crafting a beautiful celebration cake, find a window to enjoy the time-honoured and much-loved craft of baking.
Store-cupboard basics include flour (plain, self-raising and strong bread flour), butter, caster sugar, eggs and raising agents such as baking powder, bicarbonate of soda (bread soda) and yeast. Different flavours and interest are created by using combinations of whole or chopped nuts, ground almonds, seeds, dried or fresh fruit, spices, syrups, chocolate or the delicate flavours of vanilla, honey, lavender, rosewater or fresh herbs. If you like to bake often, you can keep a store of basics as above, but you could also buy whatever you need for recipes as you go.
Luscious finishes for cakes
For cake fillings and toppings, several recipes in the book have variations on the buttercream theme, with icing sugar and butter as their base. But you will also find fresh cream, cream cheese and crème fraîche toppings and chocolate glazes. I recommend buying plain chocolate with 55–62 per cent cocoa solids for use in the recipes in this book, as it has a rich flavour that works perfectly in bakes.
Baking with yeast
A range of recipes using yeast appear in the book, and it’s worth understanding the types of yeasts available, as they are not all used in the same way. Fresh yeast can be bought from some bakers and, if properly wrapped up, lasts in the fridge for up to a month. Fresh yeast has to be activated by adding it to lukewarm milk or water and leaving it for 5 minutes or until it starts to become creamy. It is then added to the flour. You can also buy two kinds of dried yeast from supermarkets: active dried yeast is used in exactly the same way as fresh yeast, by first mixing it with liquid. Active dried yeast is twice as strong so you need to use half the amount compared to fresh yeast. Fresh fast-action, or easy-blend, dried yeast is mixed straight into the flour without pre-activating it. Most of the recipes in the book call for fresh yeast or active dried yeast.
Your baking basics can be simply a large mixing bowl, a wooden spoon, a rolling pin, a baking sheet (with a lip on one side) and the most commonly used cake tins: a 20cm (8in) square cake tin and a 20cm (8in) round cake tin – preferably springform with high sides. With those few pieces you can make a variety of cakes and biscuits from this book, including small square cakes such as brownies.
Many biscuits are cut directly from a biscuit dough rolled into a sausage shape, but for others you will need a 6cm (2½in) cutter, either round or shaped. It is also essential to use accurate kitchen scales.
Oven temperatures are given for a standard oven; if you are using a fan oven, reduce the stated temperature by 20°C.