Good sushi begins with good sushi rice. Of course, the quality and freshness of the fish is paramount, but the importance of the sushi rice is often overlooked. At sushi restaurants, su-meshi, (literally, vinegar-flavoured rice) is called shari – an esoteric reference to the bones of Buddha, which reflects the importance of sushi rice in Japanese food culture.
To prepare sushi rice, you need less water than when cooking normal, plain-boiled rice because vinegar is added after cooking. The ratio of rice to water is 10 per cent more water than rice. See the chart below for quantities. To help the rice to cook through it must have absorbed moisture before cooking, so it is vital that the rice is washed and set aside for at least 1 hour before cooking. To make perfect sushi rice follow the 3 steps below.
step 1: boiling the rice
Measure the rice and pour into a large bowl. Add plenty of cold water and stir vigorously, then drain the milky water through a fine-meshed sieve. Return the rinsed rice to the bowl and repeat until the water runs clear. The rice will need between 3 and 5 washes before the rinsing water runs clear and will become slightly opaque as it begins to absorb moisture. Set it aside to drain for at least 1 hour.
Put the rice and the measured amount of water (see the first table overleat) into a heavy-based saucepan with a tight-fitting lid and add a postcard-size piece of konbu into which you have made little tears. (The konbu is optional but it does give extra flavour to the rice.)
Put the saucepan over a medium to high heat and bring to the boil. Try to resist the temptation to lift the lid to see how it is cooking, as you want to keep all the steam inside – listen for boiling sounds instead. Depending on the amount of rice you are cooking, it should take between 5 and 7 minutes to reach a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for a further 5–7 minutes before turning off the heat. Do not lift the lid but let the rice stand for 10 minutes to cook in its own steam. The next step is to make the sushi vinegar.
step 2: making the sushi vinegar
Sushi vinegar is added to cooked rice while it is still hot to create sushi rice. Although it can be bought in Japanese stores it is more economical to make your own and the flavour will be superior. The amount of sugar varies, depending on personal taste and what the vinegar will be used for. Generally speaking, a less-sweet vinegar mixture is suitable for raw fish whereas more strongly flavoured or cooked ingredients such as grilled eel, marinated mackerel, eggs and seasoned vegetables require a sweeter sushi vinegar.
To make sushi vinegar, combine the rice vinegar, sugar and salt in a non-metallic bowl and stir well until the sugar and salt have dissolved.
step 3: mixing the rice and sushi vinegar together
In Japan a broad and shallow cedarwood tub called a hangiri is used to mix sushi rice. It is hard to find outside Japan, however, and a shallow wooden salad bowl with a flat base makes an excellent substitute. Alternatively use a shallow, flat-based dish. You will also need a spatula (a flat wooden one is ideal) and a hand-held fan, although a piece of cardboard or a magazine will do.
Transfer the hot cooked rice to a moistened bowl or dish and use a moistened spatula to break up the mound of rice and to spread it evenly in the bowl or dish. Using the back of the spatula, sprinkle the sushi vinegar mixture over the rice (see opposite for quantity of vinegar to rice). Use the spatula to cut through the rice and turn it over in sections to distribute the vinegar throughout. Hold the fan in one hand as you turn the rice using the other, fanning it to cool it as quickly as possible. (This is easier if you have someone who can fan the rice for you as you turn it.) The rice will become glossy as it absorbs the vinegar mixture. Do not stir or mix the rice – this will make it mushy.
If you are not making sushi straight away, cover the rice with a dampened tea towel to stop it drying out and stand it in a cool part of the kitchen out of direct sunlight.
Prepared sushi rice will keep at room temperature for up to 4 hours – use the same day and do not refrigerate.
how to cook noodles
Noodles are very popular in Japan. Japanese people regularly eat huge quantities of soba, udon, somen and ramen, both at home and in noodle shops, at any time of the day or year. Whatever the size of the serving, noodles are never considered more than a quick bite or part of a main meal. In fact, noodles make an ideal snack as they are quick and easy to prepare, highly versatile, instantly satisfying and very digestible.
Dried and semi-dried noodles in vacuum packs are now widely available outside Japan, so are good store-cupboard standbys. Dried noodles tend to come in bundles neatly tied with paper ribbons making it easy to estimate serving portions. The Japanese prefer their noodles to have koshi, which literally means ‘a hip’, although in a culinary context it means having a good texture – just as the Italians like their pasta al dente (tender with just a little bite). Unlike pasta, however, noodles have to be cooked through to the centre, but the outside must not become sticky and soft. Noodles cannot be cooked in advance – they have to be eaten straight away otherwise they become soggy. Compared to pasta, noodles take almost no time to cook, so you must have everything else ready before you start. The following method will give you successful results every time.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a rolling boil over a medium to high heat. Untie the ribbons, if the noodles are tied, and drop in the noodles, giving them a quick stir with a chopstick to separate them. Stand by with half a glass of cold water and watch the pan. As soon as the cooking water begins to rise and is about to boil over, pour in the cold water. This will reduce the temperature of the cooking water so that the middle of each noodle cooks at the same speed as the outside. Depending on the thickness and dryness of the noodles, you may have to repeat this.
To test if the noodles are done, lift out a strand and take a bite. Ideally the noodle will be tender all the way through, with no hard core, and the outside will be slippery without being too soggy. If you are making a large quantity, cook the noodles in batches and use a sieve or strainer to scoop out cooked noodles so you don’t have to pour away the cooking water. Whether serving noodles hot or cold, the Japanese rinse their noodles under cold running water to wash off the surface starch and then drain them well.
choosing fish
Many of the most popular dishes at YO! Sushi include raw fish. This must be perfectly fresh and of the highest quality. Buying good-quality, ‘sushi-grade’ fish is the first step in making delicious sushi, so it is always a good idea to get to know your local fishmonger. Good fishmongers are generally more than happy to talk about their fish and are pleased to give you advice. Instead of asking if the fish is fresh, ask how fresh it is or when it was caught, and also ask what they recommend. Tell your fishmonger that you are making sushi or sashimi. They will advise you on their fish and tell you if it is suitable to be eaten raw.
When it comes to choosing a fish, a whole fish gives more clues about its freshness than a cut: the eyes should be clear, not cloudy, and they should be plump, not sunken. Look behind the gills – they should be bright red, not dark blood-red. The skin should be glossy and the flesh should feel firm and springy to the touch, free of any cuts or bruises. Fresh fish smells pleasantly of the sea.
Although judging the freshness of cut pieces is more difficult, the same principles apply – look, touch and smell. Generally, avoid buying pre-packed cuts in supermarkets, as it is very difficult to tell how fresh the fish is and how it has been handled. Finally, remember to tell your fishmonger if you are making sushi or sashimi and ask them to prepare the fish for you. All good suppliers will fillet the fish for you, and may even cut it into pieces