Richard Surman

Betjeman’s Best British Churches


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3.5695W

      Mainly 15th-century, St John the Baptist retains some 12th-century remains of the previous church. The long interior is a cheerful mix of red sandstone and white plasterwork. A medieval stone pulpit has ogee panelling, and the sedilia is very good Victorian Decorated. The Kirkham chantry screen, c. 1526, is one of the finest in the country – a mass of carved figures, fan vaults and gables. In the two side arches are tombs of the Kirkham family.

      PARRACOMBE † St Petrock img

      4m/6km S.W. of Lynton

       OS SS674449 GPS 51.1884N, 3.8978W

      Churches Conservation Trust

      John Ruskin saved this outwardly plain church from destruction when a new church was built close by in 1870. It has a completely unspoiled whitewashed Georgian interior; everything is irregular and just as it was 200 years ago, including the box pews, a screen with tympanum above, set with Royal Arms, commandments, creed and Lord’s Prayer. Elsewhere are hat pegs, text boards and mural tablets to local yeomen. The walls and ceilings are whitewashed and there are some 16th-century benches. At the W. end are five raked box pews for the church band and children.

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      MOLLAND: ST MARY – a lovely Georgian interior, the box pews like flood water surrounding the outward-leaning pillars of the 15th-century arcade

      PLYMOUTH † St Andrew

      Catherine Street

      OS SX479543 GPS 50.3698N, 4.1398W

      A fine 15th-century town church, St Andrew’s was gutted in 1941 during the war, but beautifully restored by Frederick Etchells. The W. window is by John Piper.

      PLYMTREE † St John the Baptist

      8m/13km N.W. of Honiton

       OS ST051029 GPS 50.8179N, 3.3474W

      One of the most attractive medieval interiors in Devon, with excellent woodwork, coloured capitals in the arcade and original colouring. The screen is very fine with its faded gilding and intricate carving. There are paintings of 34 saints, rustic but charming.

      REVELSTOKE

      † St Peter the Poor Fisherman

      Noss Mayo, 10m/16km S.W. of Plymouth

       OS SX563464 GPS 50.3004N, 4.0177W

      Churches Conservation Trust

      Dramatically sited on the cliff-edge overlooking the estuary is this medieval church with Saxon origins. Rather romantic in its part-ruined state, the nave and chancel are roofless, whilst the aisle and porch have fine carved medieval roofs. Open air services are held twice a year.

      SALCOMBE REGIS † St Peter

      2m/3km N.E. of Sidmouth

       OS SY148888 GPS 50.6929N, 3.2071W

      Set in a combe, St Peter’s has Norman work including the circular piers of the N. arcade with scalloped capitals, and the ghost of a doorway in the chancel S. wall. There is a 15th-century oak lectern.

      SAMPFORD COURTENAY

      † St Andrew img

      5m/8km N.E. of Okehampton

       OS SS632012 GPS 50.7948N, 3.9418W

      In a cheerful whitewashed cob and thatch village, St Andrew’s is silvery granite and mostly early 15th-century, with an elegant lichened tower. The interior is spacious and light with much clear glass, which suits a granite interior. Part of the S. arcade is very beautiful dove-grey Polyphant stone from east Cornwall. There is a screen in the S. aisle – a fragment of the original that spanned the width of the church – a Norman font, and carved bosses and wall-plates to the roofs. The Prayer Book Rebellion of 1549 began and ended here.

      SANDFORD † St Swithun

      2m/3km N.W. of Crediton

       OS SS828025 GPS 50.8104N, 3.6639W

      The church has an elaborate W. gallery of 1657 with carved arcaded front and fluted columns, conservative for the date, and fine 16th-century bench-end.

      SHALDON † St Peter

      On S. side of R. Teign, connected by bridge to Teignmouth

       OS SX931724 GPS 50.5421N, 3.5093W

      By E. H. Sedding, 1893–1902, this is a superb Arts and Crafts church in banded red sandstone and grey limestone, overlooking the Teign estuary. The majestic interior is alive with colour and craftsmanship. Note the outstanding pulpit and the altar in the apsidal E end.

      SIDBURY † St Peter & St Giles

      3m/4km N. of Sidmouth

       OS SY139917 GPS 50.7190N, 3.2201W

      In an attractive village setting, this is an intriguing structure with plain Saxon crypt and Norman tower adorned with two repositioned statues. The main part of the church has Norman origins, but there has been a 15th-century reworking. Inside are good wagon roofs and late Kempe glass.

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      OTTERY ST MARY – the tomb of a knight: Sir Otto de Grandisson, d. 1359

      STOWFORD † St John

      7m/11km E. of Launceston

       OS SX432870 GPS 50.6617N, 4.2189W

      In a fold of hills, St John’s is Perpendicular, thoroughly restored by Sir George Gilbert Scott in 1874. There are good wagon roofs and profuse Victorian woodwork. Monuments include a Baroque marble sculpture of a diminutive Mr Harris posed as a Roman soldier in full-bottomed wig.

      SUTCOMBE † St Andrew img

      5m/8km N. of Holsworthy

       OS SS346116 GPS 50.8808N, 4.3512W

      Sutcombe is a dullish village in a remote, unvisited part of Devon, but it has an excellent granite church. Part of the church is Norman, otherwise it is mostly late 15th- to early 16th-century. There is a large collection of early 16th-century carved bench-ends commemorating local families of Norman origin. The 16-sided pulpit bears fine carving by a local man, and there are many late medieval floor tiles of Barnstaple manufacture. Granite, sandstone and oak are the predominant materials.

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      SWIMBRIDGE: ST JAMES THE APOSTLE – the magnificent full-width rood screen, in which the most recent repairs are both easy to identify and appreciate

      SWIMBRIDGE † St James the Apostle imgimg

      5m/8km S.E. of Barnstaple

       OS SS620299 GPS 51.0527N, 3.9689W

      Known as the ‘hunting’ vicar’s church, St James the Apostle’s was restored in the 19th century by Jack Russell, its lively and keen hunter vicar. It has one of the three medieval spires of north Devon. The tower and leaded broach spire are 14th-century; the rest is 15th. Furnishings are unusually rich and interesting, including a stone pulpit, c. 1490, with some original colour, a splendid 15th-century rood screen, restored by Pearson, and a remarkable Renaissance font cover. There are some bench-ends and wagon roofs.

      TAWSTOCK † St Peter imgimg

      2m/3km S. of Barnstaple