but slightly sour, as this provides an astringency to balance the slightly sweet and creamy coconut milk.
Bring a pan of water to the boil. Lightly score a cross at the top and base of each tomato then lower them into the boiling water for 15–20 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and refresh in a bowl of iced water. Once cooled, peel off the skins of the tomato and roughly chop the flesh. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan and add the onion, ginger and garlic. Add a pinch of salt and some pepper and sweat for 4–5 minutes until the onion begins to soften. Add the chillies, fenugreek, bay leaf, turmeric and cumin and cook for another 3–4 minutes. Tip in the chopped tomatoes and tomato purée and stir well.
Pour in the coconut milk and use the tin to measure out an equal amount of water. Add this to the pan and bring to a simmer. Cook gently for about 15–20 minutes until the tomatoes are very soft and have broken down.
Purée the soup using a stick blender (or an ordinary one) and if you want a really smooth result, push the purée through a fine sieve into a clean pan. Season well to taste with salt and black pepper, adding a pinch of sugar if it tastes too acidic from the tomatoes. If you prefer a thinner soup, dilute it with some boiling water and adjust the seasoning.
When you are ready to serve, reheat the soup. In a small saucepan, heat the coconut or vegetable oil and add the cumin seeds and asafoetida, if using. As they begin to pop, take the pan off the heat and pour the spiced oil into the tomato soup. Stir well.
Ladle into warm bowls and garnish with coriander leaves and toasted flaked coconut, if you wish. Serve immediately.
Spicy prawn pakoras
SERVES 4
350g raw prawns, shell on
2 green chillies, deseeded and very finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
BATTER
150g gram (or plain) flour
1/2 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp garam masala
100–125ml warm water
I like to think of pakoras as the Indian equivalent of the Japanese tempura. They typically consist of fish, meat or vegetables that are coated in a batter made from spiced gram (chickpea) flour and then deep-fried until golden brown. These prawn pakoras are especially delicious with a Spicy green or Tomato and cucumber chutney (see pages 215 and 224).
Shell and devein the prawns, leaving the tails intact. Place them in a bowl and toss with the chopped chillies and garlic.
Next, make the batter by mixing the flour, salt and spices together in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add just enough of the warm water to form a thick, smooth paste with a slow-dropping consistency. Leave to stand for a few minutes.
Preheat the oven to the lowest setting and heat 6cm of oil in a karahi or deep saucepan to 170–180°C. One at a time, hold the prawns by their tails, dip them in the spicy batter mix to coat, then drop them into the hot oil. Fry for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until crisp and golden brown all over. Drain on a baking tray lined with kitchen paper and keep warm in the oven while you cook the rest. Serve immediately while they are still hot.
Prawn koftas
SERVES 4
450g prawns, peeled and deveined
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
handful of coriander leaves and stalks
2 medium onions, peeled and very finely chopped
2 green chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
75g dried breadcrumbs
vegetable oil, for shallow-frying
SAUCE
1 tbsp vegetable oil
20g unsalted butter
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
3cm ginger, peeled and finely grated
2 tsp garam masala
1 heaped tsp ground turmeric
400ml tin coconut milk
150ml water
These delectable prawn koftas are served with a lightly spiced sauce, which is delicious soaked up with warm flat breads. They can be eaten as a side dish, but I like them as a substantial snack.
Put the prawns in a food processor along with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Finely chop the coriander stalks, saving the leaves to garnish the dish. Add the chopped stems to the food processor along with a third of the onions. Pulse the ingredients for a few seconds until the prawns are finely chopped but not puréed.
Transfer to a bowl and stir in the remaining onions and chopped chillies. Fry a small ball of the mixture and taste to check the seasoning. Using wet hands, roll the mixture into walnut-sized balls and coat them in the breadcrumbs.
Heat 4cm of oil in a wide pan until hot. In batches, fry the prawn koftas until golden brown all over, turning once halfway. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper.
To make the sauce, heat the vegetable oil and butter in a saucepan. Add the onion, ginger and a pinch of salt and sauté for 3–4 minutes. Add the garam masala and turmeric and stir frequently for another 3–4 minutes to cook out the rawness of the spice. Pour in the coconut milk and water and bring to a simmer. Cook until the sauce has reduced by a third and thickened.
Add the prawn koftas to the pan and gently stir once to coat them in the sauce. Simmer for a few minutes until they are heated through. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve garnished with coriander leaves.
Maharashtrian white bean patties
MAKES 8–10
150g dried white beans (such as haricot or butter beans), soaked in water overnight
4 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for frying
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp garam masala
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper (or chilli powder), to taste
1 tsp ground coriander
pinch of asafoetida (optional)
1 large potato, about 300g, peeled and diced
handful of coriander leaves, chopped
1–2 tbsp plain flour, plus extra to dust
These little bean cakes, called pavta patties, are generally made with dried lima beans in India, but as these are hard to find here, use any other white bean. To save time, you can use tinned beans, but they are no match for the flavour and texture of dried ones.
Drain the beans and place in a saucepan with 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil and skim off the surface froth. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1–11/2 hours until the beans are soft but not mushy. Drain well, reserving a little cooking water,