no-dig approach also means that you can actively improve your soil without damaging the roots of existing plants as you thrust in the spade. In my opinion, albeit very biased, this makes the choice between the dig and no-dig options a real no-brainer.
Heavy clay soils do, however, need a bit more attention: worms may draw organic matter from the surface and incorporate it into the soil, but they will not do the same with the grit or horticultural sand that are vital to improving drainage. The good thing is that you need to dig in the grit only once and it is there for life, so an hour or two of manual labour should transform your soil forever. You could theoretically do this at any time of year, but I reckon the best time to do this is autumn in order to prevent damage to the roots or shoots of plants that are actively growing.
Annuals and perennials
This is a bit of geeky, but really important, gardening terminology describing the lifespan of a plant – and thus determining how often you’ll need to plant it. An annual plant, as its name suggests, grows from seed, flowers, sets seed and dies all in one year. A perennial grows, flowers and sets seed year after year without dying. (‘Biennials’ such as mullein, meanwhile, have a lifespan of two years. Growing from seed one year, then flowering, setting seed and dying the next.)
In general, perennials can be a little less work, as you do not have to sow them from seed each year. Instead, they keep growing year after year. Having said that, there are many annuals, such as sunflowers or borage, which happily sow their own seeds around your garden. This may create a lovely naturalistic effect or end up being a nightmare when they pop up everywhere! A little judicious weeding is neededwhere space is at a premium, but you can always pot up the seedlings and share them with friends. Perennials, meanwhile, form larger clumps each year, which can be divided and moved in autumn or winter to increase plant numbers.
Organic fertilizers
Fear over the potentially harmful effects of chemical fertilizers has created a huge interest in organic fertilizers in recent years. To my mind, the benefits of organic fertilizers stretch far beyond avoiding chemical residues, though.
While you can buy pelleted organic chicken manure and seaweed fertilizers in almost every garden centre these days, why not go down the no-cost route by picking up well-rotted manure from a local farmer or stables? Both are often more than happy to get rid of the stuff. You can even make your own organic fertilizer by starting a compost heap or bagging up leaf mould in big black bin bags (leave for a year or more to rot completely). Many local councils offer free compost when using council recycling schemes. (You drop off some cans or bottles for recycling and get bags of free compost in exchange – now that’s a good deal!) If you live near the coast, you can scatter pieces of seaweed, collected from coastal walks, over the surface of your soil too; just be sure to rinse them first to wash of any salty residue, which could damage the plants. With so many organic fertilizers often being free to make and source, not to mention easier to apply (you don’t have to calculate dilution rates, for example) and often more eco-friendly, what reason is there for not giving them a go?
Maintenance
If you are picking leaves regularly for use in remedies, there is little other maintenance required, apart from an occasional watering and a bit of weeding to keep things in check. Once your medicinal garden gets properly established, it’ll need a spring tidy-up. I always think it’s best to leave any cutting back of perennial plants until the following spring – that way, you’ll have collected all the autumn seeds you need, the birds will have eaten the rest and you’ll enjoy seeing the frost-covered stems during the long, cold days of winter.
IDENTIFYING YOUR PERSONAL AILMENT NEEDS
Plants are marvellous things – they can soothe an irritated stomach, headache or skin problems; aid digestion or circulation; minimize cold symptoms; and even boost the immune system. But when you’re feeling under the weather, you need to know which plants to turn to for fast relief. What should you be using if you’re prone to colds and flu, suffer from eczema or dermatitis or regularly get indigestion?
In the short term, you can buy all the plants in this book fresh or dried from herbal suppliers, health or Asian food shops or supermarkets (see Stockists). But in the long term it’s much cheaper (and more fun!) to go down the self-sufficiency route and grow your own. Here’s our list of the most outstanding plant performers you can buy and grow for various common ailments. Stock up on these and you’ll have a natural medicine cabinet that’ll help keep you and your family healthy all year round.
For digestive problems
For tummy complaints and digestive problems, try angelica, caraway seeds, ginger, fennel, marshmallow, peppermint and slippery elm, all wonderful stomach soothers.
What to grow: angelica (Angelica archangelica) and marshmallow are easy to grow in the garden. Ginger will root in a pot on your windowsill, though growing it to harvest is something of an experiment. Don’t be disappointed if the root you unearth in autumn isn’t very large – in a sunny year, you’ll still be rewarded with architectural leaves and perhaps some exotic-looking flowers, and with patience you’ll be able to harvest a good chunk of root from a mature plant. Caraway and fennel like sunny sites (harvest seeds in late summer/autumn); and peppermint likes a bit of shade – all the mints are best grown in pots, as they can be invasive.
What to buy: slippery elm powder (not capsules), dried angelica and marshmallow root from herbal suppliers and health food shops. Ginger, fennel and caraway seeds from Asian food shops or supermarkets.
For respiratory problems
To wage war on colds and flu this winter, stock up on echinacea, elderberries, eucalyptus, ginger, goji berries, nettles, onions and garlic.
What to grow: pick elderberries, goji berries (both in early autumn), and nettles in the wild (or you can plant them if you really want!). Find a eucalyptus tree in your neighbourhood and ask for a few leaves. Echinacea, garlic and onions grow well outside. For ginger, see here.
What to buy: onions, garlic and ginger from greengrocers. Dried elderberries, eucalyptus leaves, nettles, echinacea root or tincture from herbal specialists or health food shops. Dried goji berries from Asian food shops (where they can be as little as half the price of those in fancy health food stores).
For dermatological problems
To soothe skin problems including cuts, rashes, bruises, burns, insect bites, itchiness, eczema and psoriasis, keep the following handy: aloe vera, chamomile, chickweed, pot marigold, plantain, St John’s wort, tea tree and witch hazel.
What to grow: chickweed and plantain grow prolifically in the wild (and the latter perhaps in your lawn too!). Aloe vera will grow in a pot; cut off a leaf whenever you need one. Chamomile and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) like a sunny border (or pot), and St John’s wort will be happy in partial shade; harvest the flowering tops as they bloom in early summer. Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) flowers in winter, but you can use the twigs and leaves throughout the year. It will tolerate most conditions: sun, part shade or a deeper shady woodland setting.
What to buy: tea tree essential oil, dried chamomile, dried marigold flowers, dried St John’s wort and aloe vera gel from herbal suppliers and health food shops. Distilled witch hazel is handy for everyday use, from pharmacies.
For kids
In their remedies, children like plants that look and taste sweet and fruity, such as bilberries, blackberries,