target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="#ulink_9acc94f0-8128-5ec6-9c1a-096b50ca805b">27. RINGING FOR SOAP 28. “WINE, SIR!” 29. THE PILGRIM 30. THE PRISONER 31. HOMELESS FRANCE 32. RAILROAD OFFICIAL IN FRANCE 33. “FIVE MINUTES FOR REFRESHMENTS”—AMERICA 34. “THIRTY MINUTES FOR DINNER”—FRANCE 35. THE OLD TRAVELLER 36. A DECIDED SHAVE 37. A GAS-TLY SUBSTITUTE 38. THE THREE GUIDES 39. “ZE SILK MAGAZIN" 40. RETURN IN WAR PAINT 41. NAPOLEON III 42. ABDUL AZIZ 43. THE MORGUE 44. WE TOOK A WALK 45. THE CAN-CAN 46. GRAVES OF ABELARD AND HELOISE 47. A PAIR OF CANONS OF 13TH CENTURY 48. THE PRIVATE MARRIAGE 49. AMERICAN DRINKS 50. ROYAL HONORS TO A YANKEE 51. THE GRISETTE 52. FOUNTAIN AT VERSAILLES 53. WOMEN OF GENOA 54. PETRIFIED LACKEY 55. PRIEST AND FRIAR 56. STATUE OF COLUMBUS 57. GRAVES OF SIXTY THOUSAND 58. ROOF AND SPIRES OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN 59. CENTRAL DOOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN 60. INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN 61. BOYHOOD EXPERIENCE 62. TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL 63. CATHEDRAL AT MILAN 64. LA SCALA THEATRE 65. COPYING FROM OLD MASTERS 66. FACIAL EXPRESSION 67. TILE ECHO 68. NOTE BOOK 69. A KISS FOR A FRANC 70. THE FUMIGATION 71. LAKE COMO 72. GARDEN, LAKE COMO 73 SOCIAL DRIVER 74 WAYSIDE SHRINE 75 PEACE AND HAPPINESS 76 CASTLE OF COUNT LUIGI 77 THE WICKED BROTHER 78 DISGUSTED GONDOLIER 79 CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARK 80 THE PEG 81 “GOOD-BY" 82 M’SIEUR GOR-R-DONG 83 MONUMENT TO THE DOOR 84 ST. MARK, MATHEW, JEROME BY THE OLD MASTERS 87 ST. SEBASTIAN, AND ST. UNKNOWN BY THE OLD MASTERS 89 RIALTO BRIDGE AND BRIDGE OF SIGHS 91 FLORENCE 92 THE PENSIONER 93 “I WANT TO GO HOME" 94 THE LEANING TOWER 95 THE CONTRAST 96 ITALIAN PASTIMES 97 INCENDIARY DOCUMENT 98 A ROMAN OF 1869 99 MAMERTINE PRISON 100 OLD ROMAN 101 COLISEUM OF ANCIENT ROME 102 DID NOT COMPLAIN 103 HUMBOLDT HOUSE 104 DAN 105 BRONZE STATUE 106 PENMANSHIP 107 ON A BUST 108 VAULTS OF THE CONVENT 109 DRIED CONVENT FRUITS 110 AT THE STORE 111 AT HOME 112 SOOTHING THE PILGRIMS 113 ASCENT OF MT VESUVIUS 114 BAY OF NAPLES 115 THE MUSTANG 116 ISLAND OF CAPRI 117 BLUE GROTTO 118 VESUVIUS AND BAY of NAPLES 119 THE DESCENT 120 RUINS, POMPEII 121 FORUM OF JUSTICE, POMPEII 122 HOUSE; POMPEII 123 STROMBOLI 124 VIEW OF THE ACROPOLIS, LOOKING WEST 125 “HO" 126 THE ASSAULT 127 THE CARYATIDES 128 THE PARTHENON 129 WE SIDLED, NOT RAN 130 ANCIENT ACROPOLIS 131 RUINS 132 QUEEN OF GREECE 133 PALACE AT ATHENS 134 STREET SCENE IN CONSTANTINOPLE 135 GOOSE RANCHER 136 MOSQUE of ST. SOPHIA 137 TURKISH MAUSOLEUM 138 SLANDERED DOGS 139 THE CENSOR ON DUTY 140 TURKISH BATH 141 FAR-AWAY-MOSES 142 A FRAGMENT 143 A MEMENTO 144 YALTA FROM THE EMPERORS PALACE 145 EMPEROR OF RUSSIA 146 TINSEL KING 147 SHIP EMPEROR 148 THE RECEPTION 149 STREET SCENE IN SMYRNA 150 SMYRNA 151 AN APPARENT SUCCESS 152 DRIFTING TO STARBOARD 153 A SPOILED NAP 154 ANCIENT AMPHITHEATER AT EPHESUS 155 MODERN AMPHITHEATRE AT EPHESUS 156 RUINS OF EPHESUS 157 THE JOURNEY 158 GRAVES OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS 159 THE SELECTION 160 CAMPING OUT 161 ARABS’ TENTS 162 A GOOD FEEDER 163 INTERESTING FETE 164 SUNDAY SCHOOL GRAPES 165 AN OLD FOGY 166 RACE WITH A CAMEL 167 TEMPLE OF TILE SUN 168 RUINS OF BAALBEC 169 HEWN STONES IN QUARRY 170 MERCY 171 PATRON SAINT 172 WATER CAPRIER 173 VIEW OF DAMASCUS 174 STREET CARS OF DAMASCUS 175 FULL DRESSED TOURIST 176 IMPROMPTU HOSPITAL 177 THE HORSE “BAALBEC" 178 OAR OF BASLIAN 179 DANGEROUS ARAB 180 GRIMES ON THE WAR-PATH 181 BEDOUIN CAMP 182 HOME OF ANCIENT POMP 183 JACK 184 A DISAPPOINTED AUDIENCE 185 FIG-TREE 186 “FARE TOO HIGH" 187 SYRIAN HOUSE 188 TIBERIAS AND SEA OF GALILEE 189 THE GUARD 190 MOUNT TABOR 191 GATHERING FUEL 192 FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN 193 “MADONNA-LIKE BEAUTY" 194 PUTNAM OUTDONE 195 THE BASTINADO 196 “I WEPT" 197 WANT OF DIGNITY 198 AN ORIENTAL WELL 199 ARABS SALUTING 200 FREE SONS OF THE DESERT 201 SHECHEM 202 GATE OF JERUSALEM 203 BEGGARS IN JERUSALEM 204 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHER 205 GRAVE OF ADAM 206 VIEW OF JERUSALEM 207 THE WANDERING JEW 208 MOSQUE OF OMAR 209 AN EPIDEMIC 210 CHARGE OF BEDOUINS 211 DEAD SEA 212 GROTTO OF THE NATIVITY 213 JAFFA 214 REAR ELEVATION OF JACK 215 STREET IN ALEXANDRIA 216 VICEROY OF EGYPT 217 EASTERN MONARCH 218 MOSES S. BEACH 219 ROOM No. 15 220 THE NILOMETER 221 ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS 222 HIGH HOPES FRUSTRATED 223 KINGS CHAMBER IN THE PYRAMID 224 A POWERFUL ARGUMENT 225 PYRAMIDS AND SPHINX 226 THE RELIC HUNTER 227 THE MAMELUKE’S LEAP 228 WOULD NOT BE COMFORTED 229 THE TRAVELER 230 HOMEWARD BOUND 231 BAD COFFEE 232 OUR FRIENDS THE BERMUDIANS 233 CAPTAIN DUNCAN 234 FINIS
PREFACE
This book is a record of a pleasure trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who traveled in those countries before him. I make small pretense of showing anyone how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea—other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.
I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me—for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.
In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.
THE AUTHOR. SAN FRANCISCO.
CHAPTER I.
For months the great pleasure excursion to Europe and the Holy Land was chatted about in the newspapers everywhere in America and discussed at countless firesides. It was a novelty in the way of excursions—its like had not been thought of before, and it compelled that interest which attractive novelties always command. It was to be a picnic on a gigantic scale. The participants in it,