Frederick Samuel Dellenbaugh

The Romance of the Colorado River


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south of Mt. Dellenbaugh.* To the bottom of the Grand Canyon on the east side of the Shewits Plateau. To St. George via Mt. Dellenbaugh and Hidden Spring. To Kanab via Berry Spring and Pipe Spring. To Salt Lake City via Upper Kanab and the Sevier Valley.

      This waterpocket, which is a very large one, has, so far as I am aware, never had an English name and I do not know the Amerind one. I have called it "Ambush" because it was the place where three of Powell's men were shot by the Shewits in 1869. See also pp. 229–30.

      1884–5—By rail to Ft. Wingate, New Mexico. By rail to Flagstaff. To Flagstaff via circuit of, and summit of, San Francisco Mountain and the Turkey Tanks. By rail to the Needles, California. By rail to Manuelito, New Mexico. To Ft. Defiance. By buckboard to Keam's Canyon. To the East Mesa of the Moki. To Keam's Canyon. By buckboard via Pueblo, Colorado, to Ft. Defiance. To the San Juan River at the "Four Corners," via Lukachukai Pass and the summit of the Carisso Mountains. To Ft. Defiance via the crest of the Tunicha Plateau. By buckboard to Keam's and to the East Mesa of the Moki. To Mishongnuvi and back. By waggon to Keam's. To Oraibe via Tewa. To Keam's via Shimopavi and Tewa. To Holbrook by buckboard.

      1899—By rail west across Green River Valley. By rail down Price River, east across Gunnison Valley, up Grand River, and over the Continental Divide.

      1903—By rail to Salt Lake. By rail to Modena. By horse up the Virgen River to the narrows of Mukoontuweap. Thence via Rockville and Short Creek to Pipe Springs and Kanab. Thence to De Motte Park, Bright Angel Spring, and Greenland Point at the Grand Canyon on the Kaibab Plateau. Thence to Kanab, Panquitch, and Marysvale. Thence by rail to Salt Lake.

      1907—By rail to Grand Canyon, Arizona. By horse to Bass Camp, to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, opposite Shinumo Creek, to Habasu Canyon, to Grand Canyon Station, and to Grand View. By rail to the Needles.

       Table of Contents

       CHAPTER I. The Secret of the Gulf—Ulloa, 1539, One of the Captains of

       Cortes, Almost Solves it, but Turns Back without Discovering—Alarcon,

       1540, Conquers

       CHAPTER II. The Unknown River—Alarcon Ascends it Eighty-five Leagues

       and Names it the Rio de Buena Guia—Melchior Diaz Arrives at its Banks

       Later and Calls it the Rio del Tizon—Cardenas Discovers the Grand

       Canyon.

       CHAPTER III. The Grand Canyon—Character of the Colorado River—The

       Water-Gods; Erosion and Corrasion—The Natives and their Highways—The

       "Green River Valley" of the Old Trappers—The Strange Vegetation and

       Some Singular Animals

       CHAPTER IV. Onate, 1604, Crosses Arizona to the Colorado—A Remarkable

       Ancient Ruin Discovered by Padre Kino, 1694—Padre Garces Sees the Grand

       Canyon and Visits Oraibi, 1776—The Great Entrada of Padre Escalante

       across Green River to Utah Lake, 1776—Death of Garces Ends the Entrada

       Period, 1781.

       CHAPTER V. Breaking the Wilderness—Wanderings of the Trappers and Fur

       Traders—General Ashley in Green River Valley, 1824—Pattie along the

       Grand Canyon, 1826—Lieutenant Hardy, R.N., in a Schooner on the Lower

       Colorado, 1826—Jedediah Smith, Salt Lake to San Gabriel, 1826—Pattie

       on the Lower Colorado in Canoes, 1827–28

       CHAPTER VI. Fremont, the Pathfinder—Ownership of the Colorado—The

       Road of the Gold Seekers—First United States Military Post, 1849—Steam

       Navigation—Captain Johnson Goes to the Head of Black Canyon

       CHAPTER VII. Lieutenant Ives Explores to Fortification Rock—By Trail to

       Diamond Creek, Havasupai Canyon, and the Moki Towns—Macomb Fails in

       an Attempt to Reach the Mouth of Grand River—James White's Masterful

       Fabrication

       CHAPTER VIII. The One-armed Knight—A Bold Attack on the Canyons—Powell

       and His Men—The Wonderful Voyage—Mighty Walls and Roaring

       Rapids—Capsizes and Catastrophes

       CHAPTER IX. A Canyon of Cataracts—The Imperial Chasm—Short Rations—A

       Split in the Party—Separation—Fate of the Howlands and Dunn—The

       Monster Vanquished

       CHAPTER X. Powell's Second Attack on the Colorado—Green River City—Red

       Canyon and a Capsize—The Grave of Hook—The Gate of Lodore—Cliff of

       the Harp—Triplet Falls and Hell's Half-Mile—A Rest in Echo Park

       CHAPTER XI. An Island Park and a Split Mountain—The White River

       Runaways—Powell Goes to Salt Lake—Failure to Get Rations to the Dirty

       Devil—On the Rocks in Desolation—Natural Windows—An Ancient House—On

       the Back of the Dragon at Last—Cataracts and Cataracts in the Wonderful

       Cataract Canyon—A Lost Pack-Train—Naming the Echo Peaks

       CHAPTER XII. Into the Jaws of the Dragon—A Useless Experiment—Wheeler

       Reaches Diamond Creek Going Up-stream—The Hurricane Ledge—Something

       about Names—A Trip from Kanab through Unknown Country to the Mouth of

       the Dirty Devil

       CHAPTER XIII. A Canyon through Marble-Multitudinous Rapids—Running the

       Sockdologer—A Difficult Portage, Rising Water, and a Trap—The Dean

       Upside Down—A Close Shave—Whirlpools and Fountains—The Kanab Canyon

       and the End of the Voyage

       CHAPTER XIV. A Railway Proposed through the Canyons—The Brown Party,

       1889, Undertakes the Survey—Frail Boats and Disasters—The Dragon

       Claims Three—Collapse of the Expedition—Stanton Tries the Feat Again,

       1889–90—A Fall and a Broken Leg—Success of Stanton—The Dragon Still

       Untrammelled

       Epilogue

       Appendix

       {photo p. xvii} The Steamer "Undine." Wrecked while trying to ascend

       a rapid on Grand River above Moab. Photograph by R. G. Leonard. His

       experience on this river ran through a period of some 20 years from*

       about 1892. He died in the autumn of 1913. Every year he built one or

       more boats trying to improve on each. The Stone model (see cut, page

       129) was the final outcome. The usual high-water mark at Bright Angel

       Trail is 45 feet higher than the usual low-water mark. Stanton measured

       the greatest declivity in Cataract Canyon and found it to be 55 feet in

       two miles. The total fall in Cataract Canyon he made 355 feet. With a

       fall per mile of 27½ feet. Cataract holds the record for declivity,

       though this is only for two miles, while