B-2000
Essex
Franchi Model 48AL
Franchi S.P.A.S. 12
Harrington & Richardson Topper
High Standard Flite-King
High Standard Supermatic
Ithaca Mag 10
Ithaca Model 37
Iver Johnson Champion
Marlin Model 26
Marlin Model 55
Mossberg Model HS410
Mossberg 395KB
Mossberg Model 500
Mossberg Model 695
Mossberg Model 9200
Parker Double
Remington Model 10
Remington Model 870
Remington Model 11-48
Remington Model 11-87
Remington Model 1100
Ruger Red Label
Savage Model 24D
Savage Model 30
Savage-Stevens Model 311
Savage Model 755A
SKB Model XL900MR
L.C. Smith Double
Smith & Wesson 916
Smith & Wesson 1000
Snake Charmer II
Stevens Hammer Double
Stevens Model 59B
Stevens Model 124C
Stevens Model 520
Stevens Model 9478
Stoeger IGA English
Street Sweeper
Tri-Star Model 411R Coach
Winchester Model 12
Winchester Model 37
Winchester Model 97
Winchester Model 101
Winchester Model 1200
Winchester Model 1400
Winchester Model 1887
Winchester Super-X Model 1
Winchester Super-X Model II
This book is dedicated to my father, James W. Wood.
Acknowledgements
My thanks to these people, who helped to make this book possible:
John S. Yarger, John A. Yarger, James W. Yarger, and Larry McClarney of Lock & Load Gun Shop; Dr. Kenneth Eblen, A1 Paulsen, Brian Paulsen, Donald L. Harrison, Kenny B. Woods, James H. Manion, Don Hatten, Bill Risinger, Mel Luton, Mike Burkdoll, and Stanley Hopper; Joe Koziel of Mossberg; Dick Dietz of Remington; George Woford of American Arms; Tyke Arbaugh and Rafael Aguine of Beretta; Dan Flaherty of Magtech; Phil Hunter of the Gun Parts Corporation; Larry Sterett; James W. Wood; Terah L. Flaherty, James R. Blough; Glenn Lancaster; John Huff; Paul Thompson of Browning; Don Madole of Tri-Star; Keith Bernkrant and Paul Richter of EAA; Jay Langston, Stephen McElvain, and Joe Triani of Stoeger and Benelli.
Tools
Countless firearms, old and new, bear the marks, burrs, and gouges that are the result of using the wrong tools for taking them apart. In the interest of preventing this sort of thing, I am including here a group of tools that are the best types for the disassembly of shotguns. Except for the few shop-made tools for special purposes, all of those shown here are available from one of these sources.
Brownells Inc. Route 2, Box 1, 200 S. Front St. Montezuma, Iowa 50171
B-Square Company P.O. Box 11281 Fort Worth, Texas 76109
General Instructions:
Screwdrivers: Always be sure the blade of the screwdriver exactly fits the slot in the screw head, both in thickness and in width. If you don't have one that fits, grind or file the tip until it does. You may ruin a few screwdrivers, but better them than the screws on a fine shotgun.
Slave pins: There are several references in this book to slave pins, and some non-gunsmith readers may not be familiar with the term. A slave pin is simply a short length of rod stock (in some cases, a section of a nail will do) which is used to keep two parts, or a part and a spring, together during reassembly. The slave pin must be slightly smaller in diameter than the hole in the part, so it will push out easily as the original pin is driven in to retain the part. When making a slave pin, its length should be slightly less than the width of the part in which it is being used, and the ends of the pin should be rounded or beveled.
Sights: Nearly all dovetail-mounted sights are drifted out toward the right, using a nylon, aluminum, or brass drift punch.
1. The tiniest of these fine German instrument screw drivers from Brownells is too small for most gun work, but you'll see the rest of them used frequently throughout the book. There are many tight places where these will come in handy.
2. When a larger screwdriver is needed, this set from Brownells covers a wide range of blade sires and also has Phillips- and Allen-type inserts. The tips are held in place by a strong magnet, yet are easily changed. These tips are very hard. With enough force you might manage to break one, but they'll never bend.
3. You should have at least one good pair of bent sharp- nosed pliers. These, from Brownells, have a box joint and smooth inner faces to help prevent marring.
4. For heavier gripping, these Bernard parallel-jaw pliers from Brownells have smooth-faced jaw-pieces of unhardened steel to prevent marring of parts.