the alley, which connects Rue René Leynaud and Rue Burdeau via two white staircases, is lined with chic boutiques, cafés, and artist workshops. Peruse the shops’ offerings on your way to lunch in the Croix-Rousse district, but don’t budget more than 20-30 minutes for this significant, yet small sight. The surrounding pastel-colored buildings do make for a good Instagram post, though.
i Free; no wheelchair accessibility
PLACE BELLECOUR
Place Bellecour; 04 72 77 69 69; open daily 24hr
Place Bellecour holds the title of the largest square in Lyon and the largest pedestrian square in all of Europe. Today, it doesn’t seem like much, except for an expanse of Mars-red pavement, a statue of Louis XIV in the middle, a tourist office, and a Ferris wheel for kids and adults who haven’t quite grown up. Back in the day, however, the square itself held much more significance: it was the sight of royal parades for the king and executions via the guillotine during the French Revolution. Although the square isn’t too spectacular in the daytime, give it another try in the evening when the Ferris wheel lights up in a display of vibrant colors.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUMS
20 Pl. des Terreaux; 04 72 10 17 40; www.mba-lyon.fr; open M, W-Th 10am-6pm, F 10:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm
At last, the chance to hang with our artistically inclined pals: Monet, Picasso, and Gauguin. It feels like centuries since we’ve last gotten together! Probably because their art is from around a hundred years ago. Man, walking through all these carefully curated wings with art from Impressionists, Modernists, and Renaissance art really takes us back to Monet’s fascination with landscapes, that time Pablo discovered Cubism, and Paul’s trip to Tahiti that he won’t stop painting about! When we’re finished with our rendez-vous, we’re going to the extensive sculpture hall featuring works by Rodin, as well as the antiquities wing with Ancient Egyptian, Greco-Roman, Muslim, and Ottoman relics.
i Permanent collection admission €8, students €4; temporary exhibition admission €12, students €7; last entry 5:30pm; audio guide €1 in French, English, Italian, free downloadable app; wheelchair accessible
LUGDUNUM: MUSÉES GALLO-ROMAIN DE FOURVIÈRE
17 Rue Cleberg; 04 72 38 49 30; www.museegalloromain.grandlyon.com; museum open Tu-F 11am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm; archaeological site open daily Apr 15-Sept 15 7am-9pm, daily Sept 16-Apr 14 7am-7pm
If we had to name one thing Lyon is proud of, it would have to be its importance during its time as Lugdunum, a city of the Roman Empire founded in 43 BCE. Now, we agree, it’s kind of weird to look back fondly on practically being colonized and ruled by an outside power (Stockholm Syndrome, anyone?), but Lugdunum was a powerhouse that laid the groundwork for the city Lyon became. The museum, which details everything about the ancient city—from its religious practices to palace structures to stunning mosaics—is expansive, spanning four descending floors. As cool as all this is, walking between artifact after artifact can get a little dusty and dry. Thankfully, you can actually climb the steps of the Gallo-Roman theatre outside. Just don’t fall—it’s steep!
i Permanent collection admission €4, students under 26 €2.50, free under 18; temporary exhibitions admission €7, students under 26 €4.50; last entry 5:30pm; wheelchair accessible
MUSÉES GADAGNE
1 Pl. du Petit Collège; 04 78 42 03 61; www.gadagne.musees.lyon.fr; open W-Su 11am-6:30pm
This museum is actually two museums in one: the Lyon History Museum (MHL) and the Puppetry Museum (MAM). Why these two museums are housed together in a stunning seventeenth-century building is beyond us, but what we can say is that they are both carefully curated and informative. The Puppetry Museum, although a bit creepy, features hundreds of puppets including Guignol, a beloved puppet who symbolizes the speech and la vie quotidienne of the Lyonnais. The history museums take you through 30 rooms of Lyonnais history, including its rise as the Roman city of Lugdunum to the rise of Catholicism to the city’s importance as an economic and intellectual hotspot. Our favorite part was the room from the eighteenth-century describing how the elite developed a love for decorative arts. (Because what else do rich people have to do?)
i Admission €6, students €4, free under 18; temporary exhibition admission €8, students €6; last entry 6pm; tours M, W-F 10am-noon, 2pm-4pm, Tu 2pm-4pm, must book in advance, adults €3, children €1; wheelchair accessible
OUTDOORS
PARC DES HAUTEURS
Montée Nicolas de Lange; 04 72 69 47 60; open daily 24hr
Directly meaning “park of heights,” the Parc des Hauteurs is more a hiking trail than anything else. The park, or trail, rather, connects the top of Fourvière Hill to the cemetery of Loyasse. There’s a gold rose petal path that you can follow towards the La Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière or explore the rosary garden within the park. We recommend packing a lunch before coming up so that you can enjoy the views of Lyon’s orange-tiled rooftops and the Sâone River.
i Free; last tram to Fourvière at 10pm; no wheelchair accessibility
PARC DE LA TÊTE D’OR
69006 Lyon; 04 72 69 47 60; www.loisirs-parcdelatetedor.com; mid-Apr-mid-Oct 6:30am-10:30pm, mid-Oct-mid-Apr 6:30am-8:30pm
On the east side of the Rhône lies a massive green space in the middle of Lyon’s urban landscape: Parc de la Tête D’Or. Comparable to New York City’s Central Park (although perhaps not as grand or expansive), the 117-hectare plot has everything you could want in a day outdoors: a lake filled with geese, a rose garden, and a zoo. For those of us that prefer the wonders of the great indoors, the northern side of the park houses the Musée d’Art Contemporain. But, honestly, why wouldn’t you appreciate a leisurely stroll in the greenery for a respite from the chaos of the otherwise bustling city?
i Free; wheelchair accessible
FOOD
ATHINA ($)
3 Rue Romarin; 04 78 72 86 61; open Tu-Su noon-2pm and 7pm-10pm
There’s a certain charm about small places, and Athina definitely has it. With only about six or seven tables, Athina boasts fast service and not-to-miss deals on Greek staples, including flavorful pork and chicken pitas with a side of scrumptious fries. Pair your meal with Greek beer and sit back as you enjoy your meal in the airy space, complete with inviting teal walls that make you feel like you’re by the Mediterranean.
i Entrées from €6; cash only; vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible
L’AUBERGE DES CANUTS ($$)
8B Pl. Saint Jean; 09 86 50 89 66; www.auberge-des-canuts.com; open daily 8am-midnight
If you’re looking for a taste of bouchons Lyonnais on a budget, you’ve hit the spot. Located just steps away from the Cathédrale Saint-Jean de Baptiste with walls reminiscent of the cobblestone streets of Vieux Lyon, L’Auberge des Canuts serves traditional