Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd., with editorial offices at 364 Innovation Drive, North Clarendon, Vermont 05759 U.S.A. and at 61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12, Singapore 534167.
Text and illustrations © 2010 Betty Reynolds
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Welcome to Bali, the island of beauty and mystery. Over our 20-year association with Asia, my husband and I return here to vacation as often as possible. With each visit, we become more fascinated with the culture and more charmed by the people. We have been fortunate to meet many Balinese people willing to allow us direct exposure to important aspects of their lives and culture. We visited Balinese homes and villages, learned how to pray at temple ceremonies and festivals, and participated in important rituals that mark Balinese passage through the main stages of life. Most importantly, we made friends with a wonderful group of people! This sketchbook records our many experiences. I hope it will be useful, or at least entertaining to those lucky enough to travel here, or for those curious to know what the fuss is all about. Please have a look.
Bali is an island of inviting beaches, imposing mountains and great physical beauty. The topography is dominated by an east-west chain of volcanoes with a multitude of rivers that cut deep ravines as they flow from the highlands to the surrounding sea. The abundance of water and the uncommon fertility of the volcanic soils result in luxurious growth throughout the island. The southern plains are extensively cultivated with rice fields watered by an ancient, complex irrigation system. The spiritual and social lives of the Balinese are strongly influenced by this unique geography. The lofty mountains are believed to be the abode of the Gods; humans live in the middle ground; while the sea below is the domain of evil spirits. This mountain-to-sea axis aligns the layouts of villages, houses and rooms, and orients the Balinese throughout their lives.
This active volcano is thought to be the “navel of the world” and the home of the spirits of Balinese ancestors.
are offerings to the Gods which accompany every stage of the rice-growing process.
and other spectacular beaches attract tourists and serve as a spiritual place for cleansing ceremonies.
The terraced rice fields of Bali are an artist's paradise with colors changing from green to the yellow-orange hue at harvest time. Rice is the single most important food crop in Bali. Good volcanic soils, plentiful rain and ingenious irrigation networks produce three crops of rice every fourteen months.
are black and white checked fabrics that balance high and low spirits.
is a woven image of the rice goddess Dewi Sri that symbolizes wealth and fertility.
The true magic of Bali lies in her beautiful people and their religion which provides an all-encompassing structure for their lives. The Balinese form of Hinduism evolved over centuries. It is a composite of ancient animistic beliefs and successive waves of Buddhist and Hindu influences from Java. The unique rituals and ceremonies resulting from this mix is the heart of Balinese culture. The Balinese believe their universe is under the influence of competing forces of order and disorder. Their religion is focused on rituals, ceremonies and behavior designed to maintain a balance between these forces. For the average Balinese, dogma and philosophy play little role in religion. A devout Balinese need only make daily offerings and participate fully in village and temple ceremonies.
Images of gods and demons are evident everywhere in Bali. However, these many gods are all manifestations of the one supreme god, Ida Sanghyang Widhi. One important manifestation is the Trinity [Trisabti] consisting of: Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver, and Siwa the Destroyer. Their Trinity is embodied in every temple and symbolized by the colors red, white and black in ceremonial cloths and decorations. Also evident are other gods, demons and protective spirits. In keeping with their view of a universe of good and evil, high and low, and sekala and niskala [the visible and the invisible], the Balinese also believe in black magic, ghosts and evil spirits. Many of their arts were developed to create beautiful and elaborate