grounds. Known derisively as the Mitsubishi Meadow or even the "Gambler's Meadow" by those who did not have the foresight to buy the land, the Marunouchi district was planned by the Iwasakis to become a Western-style complex of buildings for the industrial and commercial growth they foresaw for the nation. To this end they hired Josiah Conder, an English architect who came to live in Japan in 1877 and who worked not only as an architect but as an instructor at the College of Technology (later to become Tokyo University) to teach architecture. Here he trained the first generation of Japanese architects in the technicalities of Western architecture.
Conder's three-story buildings, which he designed for the Mitsubishi group, were red-brick structures with white stone quoins. Windows and doors were outlined in white stone. Th new Western-style district he created was known as "London Town." Its streets were lined with trees and the newest of modern appurtenances, poles to support above-ground electric wires. London Town with its Queen Anne style architecture in Marunouchi, and the not-too-distant Ginza area with its newly paved streets and brick-built structures, were the pride of the Meiji era.
The sponsors of London Town hoped that it would quickly become the new commercial and financial center of Tokyo. The first building was completed in 1894, but unfortunately the Stock Exchange, the Bank of Japan, and other financial and commercial establishments remained in Nihombashi to the east. Success for London Town had to await the arrival of the railroad into central Tokyo.
The extension of the railroad from Shimbashi, south of the Ginza area, into Marunouchi finally became a reality in 1914. Dr. Tatsuno Kingo, a student of Josiah Conder, was named as the architect of the new Tokyo Central Station (where this walking tour begins), which opened in 1914. The 1,000-foot-long red-brick Renaissance-style station was modeled after the Amsterdam Zentraal station in the Netherlands. The new station faced toward the east, toward London Town and the Imperial Palace. The plan to have an entrance on the eastern side of the station was stymied for years since the Sotobori (Outer Moat) still ran parallel to the railroad right-of-way to the east, and the interests of the Nihombashi and Kyobashi officials could not be satisfied since each wanted a bridge over the moat to their district. The dispute was not resolved until 1929 when an eastern entrance to the station was created. This latter entrance was greatly enhanced in the 1960s when the high-speed Shinkansen Line with its "Bullet Trains" came into being, for then a whole new, modern terminal structure was built behind the existing station. Also the Daimaru Department Store was built, facing Yaesu Plaza, which covers a portion of the former Sotobori.
Tokyo Central Station, after its opening in 1914, was meant as a memorial for Japan's victory over Russia in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-5, and its main entrance was reserved solely for royal use. The station remained central in name only, for it was the terminus for trains from the south while the station at Ueno (to the north) was the terminus for trains from the north and east. Not until after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 could the two stations be linked, a possibility brought about by the earthquake's destruction of the buildings between the two terminals. With the completion of the elevated Yamanote Line in 1925, which circles a major portion of Tokyo, it was finally possible to link Ueno Station and Tokyo Central Station.
The early future of Marunouchi looked brighter when the Tokyo city and prefectural governments agreed to share a new building in the former daimyo quarter. A red-brick, Western-style structure was to arise in Marunouchi with the prefectural offices to the right while the city offices were to the left. Each had the image of its patron before its portion of the structure: Ota Dokan, the founder of the earlier Edo Castle in the mid-1400s, was placed before the city sector of the building. Tokugawa Ieyasu, the second founder of Edo in the 1590s, stood before the prefectural offices. (A new, modern city hall was erected on the site in 1957 under the direction of the noted Japanese architect Kenzo Tange. As with its predecessor, it was to be razed after 1991 as the city hall moved farther west to Shinjuku. The new city hall was also designed by Tange.)
The new station became the "front door" to the city, and gradually office buildings in Marunouchi, as London Town came to be known, filled the "Mitsubishi Meadows" between the railroad and the Palace over the next twenty-five years. The life of modern buildings is frequently all too short, and Conder's buildings gradually were replaced from 1930 on by newer and larger structures. The last remnant of London Town, Mitsubishi Building Number One, disappeared in 1967 in the post-Second World War construction boom. The limit of seven to eight floors (100 feet in height) for the buildings in Marunouchi, out of respect to the adjacent Imperial Palace, which it would not be proper to overshadow, was to go the way of many such traditions after the 1950s, and today the financial and commercial headquarters of Japanese and international firms tower over the Imperial Palace grounds. Other traditions, such as the placing of an image of the Buddha under the roof of a building as protection against lightning, are no longer recognized. According to Edward Seidensticker, one of these original Buddhas resides in the basement of the Marunouchi Building, hardly a protection against the deity of lightning.
This tour of Marunouchi and Yurakucho begins at the eastern side of Tokyo Central Station, a bustling center whose daily train traffic its original planners could not have envisioned. Twelve train platforms above and below ground receive three thousand train arrivals a day. A small park graces the area before the station with the Tokyo Central Post Office on the left and a bus terminal to the right. A broad street leads from the plaza in front of the station to Hibiya-dori and the park before the Imperial Palace that was created in 1926. The building on the left of the beginning of this boulevard was the Marunouchi Building (Maru Number One), completed just before the 1923 earthquake. It marked the beginning of a new era for Marunouchi, for this eight-story building was the largest one in Japan at the time, and it helped to attract financial and commercial firms to this area of geometrically planned streets. The district was fortunate in that it remained undamaged in the 1923 earthquake and from the major air raids of 1945, although it too is now gone.
A companion building on the right of the beginning of the boulevard is the New Marunouchi Building (Maru Number Two), which appears to be a twin to the original structure across the way. Its foundations were in place before the Second World War, but it remained a stagnant pool until 1951, when work finally commenced on its completion. The success of the onetime London Town is obvious from the number of high-rise buildings in the district. The 1958 Otemachi Building, which can hold forty-thousand employees, is a prime example of the change which has come over the "Mitsubishi Meadows."
Two streets along the boulevard bring one to Hibiya-dori, the Babasaki-bori (Moat in Front of the Horse Grounds), and the beginning of the Imperial Palace Outer Gardens. (The moat has this strange name since it derives from a 1635 display of horse-manship presented before the shogun by a delegation from the then dependent Kingdom of Korea.) When the capital was moved to Tokyo in 1868, three areas which were a portion of the castle grounds were gradually given to the public as parkland. These include the Imperial Palace Outer Garden along Hibiyadori in front of the Palace, the Imperial Palace East Garden, which contains the remains of the former Tokugawa castle, and the Kita-no-Maru Park, which was once also a part of the castle grounds. The Outer Garden has seen momentous events since it was separated from the Imperial Palace grounds. Here refugees from the destruction of the 1923 earthquake gathered, and here in August of 1945 a number of Japan's officer corps committed seppuku (ritual suicide), their deaths supposedly atoning for Japan's loss in the Pacific War. In the 1950s and 1960s it became a place for public demonstrations against unpopular government decisions. Many of these gatherings were anti-American in nature.
Hibiya-dori extends along the Outer Gardens and the palace with a range of modern office buildings on its eastern side. Turning to the left from the boulevard leading from the Tokyo Station and heading south (to the left) on Hibiya-dori, the present buildings between the railway and the Outer Garden cover not only the site of the Matsudaira daimyo mansion and ancillary buildings but also the building in which the shogun's chief Confucian advisor, Hayashi Razan, once held sway.
Prior to the nineteenth century the shogunal fire department was located where the Meiji Life Insurance Building now stands across from the bridge over the Babasaki Moat. Edo never boasted an organization which could fight the "Flowers of Edo," outbreaks of fires which occurred all too frequently. Each daimyo and the shogun had men who could serve to protect their lord's property, but the common citizen was on his own in his warren of wooden houses