Pen y Fan. Pen y Fan at 886m (2906ft) is the highest mountain in South Wales and just fails to achieve Munro status, a term given to summits over 3000ft. For a description of the mountain see ‘Geology and geomorphology of Pen y Fan,’ Walk 5).
PEN Y FAN VISTA
The summit of Pen y Fan is one of the finest vantage points in Wales. On an exceptionally clear day, Cadair Idris can just be distinguished to the north and Exmoor to the south. Fforest Fawr to the west possesses many interesting features and is a relatively unvisited part of the park. Almost due west are the cliffs of a beautiful glacial cwm, Craig Cerrig-gleisiad. To the south-west the plumes from the stacks of Port Talbot and Llandarcy can be seen on a clear day and in between these is the wide sweep of Swansea Bay which culminates in the west with the Mumbles Lighthouse.
Scramble carefully down the crags due north of the summit cairn and follow the ridge of Cefn Cwm Llwch for about 2km.
As you scramble down from the summit, look carefully at the upper surfaces of the near horizontal Plateau Beds for ripple marks. These are also present on the surfaces of rocks making up the summit. They were formed in exactly the same way as ripples are formed in the sandy beds of rivers today. Look back at the north-east face of Pen y Fan where in early spring you can see the brilliant colours of rare arctic-alpines (see ‘Flora of the north-east face of Pen y Fan,’ Walk 4).
Take a small path which leaves the main track and bears left (N) towards the pile of stones at the disused quarry of Cwar Mawr (SN018 236). From here descend west-north-west (292°) to the spur of Twyn y Dyfnant and down the steep slope to the hill fence, keeping to the right of the coniferous forestry.
Cross the fence through a gate (SN009 241) and follow the line of trees diagonally down the slope to the right. At the end of the tree line turn sharp left and drop down to the field below. An indistinct path leads directly down the field after 80m. Head for the junction of hedges to the left and continue down the slope to the ford across the stream (SN007 244) and back to the start of the walk.
Alternative route
From the obelisk turn north and follow the footpath which swings first right, left, then right again around the head of a side valley of Cwm Llwch, with steep slopes on the right. Just before the final spur of Pen Milan, the path changes into a broad green old quarry track. The hill vegetation comprises dwarf shrub heath and grass heath in which ling (Calluna) and bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) are common. Purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea) is abundant on flatter areas.
The route descends to the right diagonally across the valley side. This track has obviously seen heavy use in the past and, in fact, was used to transport Old Red Sandstone (see ‘Geology’ in the Introduction) from a quarry on the left, now abandoned. The softer rock was used as road infill, whereas the harder stone was used in building.
The quarry track swings sharply right and then left, descending between grassy banks and heading due north again. The path becomes ill-defined in places but eventually the fences on either side funnel the path to a gate. Pass through the gate, ford a small stream, and follow the tree-lined track to the yard with the cottage of Clwydwaunhir on the left.
Opposite the house are a small ford and a stile. Cross these and cut across some fields (SE) back to the start of the walk.
WALK 2
Cwm Llwch Ridge
| Start | Llwynbedw, Cwm Llwch (SO 006 245) |
| Distance | 10km (6 miles) |
| Total Ascent | 620m (2035ft) |
| Map | OL12 Western Area |
A high-level circuit of Cwm Llwch involving ascents of the two highest mountains in South Wales, Corn Du and Pen y Fan. The walk follows a horseshoe, climbing the westerly ridge to the high summits and descends the eastern ridge. The ascent is gentle at first, but the final climb to the summit of Corn Du and the descent from Pen y Fan are steep. In good weather route finding presents no problems but will certainly require the use of a map and compass in poor weather. The walk requires reasonable exertion. The main features of interest are the geomorphology, the birdlife and the superb views from the summits.
Start from the car park in a field at the end of the track from Pont Rhydybetws. There is a sign saying ‘NO MOTORS’. Continue along the main track into the valley of Cwm Llwch. After about 200m there is a wood on the left. Take the path to the right and follow up the hill into the field. The path goes past deciduous woodland with alder trees on the left and comes to a stile near a large oak tree. Continue in a north-westerly direction, reaching a second wooden stile with a yellow waymark arrow and then head towards a renovated farmhouse, turning right to bypass it on your left. Looking back, and to the south, you can see into Cwm Llwch valley. On the right is the bulk of Pen Milan over which this route climbs.
Skirting round the farm buildings cross a stile and the field ahead to a house in the trees (Clwydwaunhir). Cross a stile and walk down the left of the hawthorn hedge to a stile and stream. After crossing the stream, turn sharp left and follow the sign to Pen Milan.
Continue between holly trees, fording the stream again and follow the track ahead to the gate with a yellow waymark arrow and the National Trust sign to Pen Milan. This is where you cross the hill fence. Head due south along an indistinct path, aiming for the left side of the spur of land ahead and follow the land grooves up to the crest. A slightly sunken grassy track leads diagonally up the valley side to a path through gorse and bracken.
Llyn Cwm Llwch and Corn Du looking west from the summit of Pen y Fan
From here look up the valley to Pen y Fan on the left and Corn Du on the right. Far over to the east is Cefn Cwm Llwch ridge which will be your descent route. The route drops down this ridge to Twyn y Dyfnant on its left (N) edge.
Pass a group of hawthorn trees on the left and follow the old quarry track to a point where it swings sharply back to the right at the first zigzag. Continue south between small quarry spoils and keep on the main track to a flattened area of quarry debris. From here follow a walkers’ path to the cairn. From the cairn there are good views to the west to Craig Cerrig-glaisiad and Fan Nedd beyond.
Walk through peat haggs to a broader section of the ridge and so to Tommy Jones’ Obelisk. If the weather has deteriorated, a quick descent can be made from the obelisk down an obvious path to Llyn Cwm Llwch below. Otherwise, follow the ridge of Craig Cwm Llwch (SE) up the steep slope to the summit of Corn Due.
Ascending Corn Du from Bwlch Duwynt
The final 10m or so to the summit of Corn Du involves scrambling up the Plateau Beds but a stepped path leading diagonally right will avoid further damage to these loose crags. From the top of the stepped path cross left (E) to the summit of the crags overlooking Cwm Llwch.
From the cairn follow the crags (E) and descend into the col. The path swings around (ENE) and climbs along a broad track, well marked by cairns, to the trig point on the summit of Pen y Fan. For a description of the mountain and its panorama see ‘Geology and geomorphology of Pen y Fan,’ Walk 5 and ‘Pen y Fan vista,’ Walk 1. The summit of Pen y Fan is the site of a Bronze Age turf barrow that contained a rectangular stone cist within which was a cremated body and a copper-alloy object.
Scramble carefully down the crags due north of the summit cairn and follow the ridge of Cefn Cwm Llwch for