to the L side of the crest, and cairns mark the way. It becomes surprisingly grassy and you may see the rock grouse that nest here, if not the well-established herd of ibex that graze peacefully, ignoring the tourists. A cross marks the summit of Croda del Becco (2810m, 1hr 15min), a simply breathtaking spot where 360° views take in a surprising number of Dolomites, including Picco di Vallandro to the E and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo further back, the Tofane S and even the Puez altopiano SW, not to mention the lake at your feet and the snow-capped Austrian ranges spreading across the northern horizon. Return the same way, taking extra care on the aided section.
From the Forcella Sora Forno (2388m) pass it’s a short downhill walk to the cream stone building Rifugio Biella (2327m, 10min), an exemplary old-style refuge where generous slices of home-made, mouth-watering tarts and Apfelstrudel are hard to resist.
Path n.28 entails a gradual ascent E to a rocky crest studded with edelweiss. As you’re a little way back from Croda del Becco now, its regular onion-skin layers of limestone are clearer, as is its crazily tilted 45° angle. The airy ridge gives wonderful outlooks, including a bird’s eye view of Lago di Fosses below the Remeda Rossa. Watch your step, however, as the way is pitted with hollows where precious soil has collected and an astonishing range of blooms flourish, such as pink cinquefoil.
From Forcella Cocodain (30min, 2332m), a faint route thick with wildflowers and marked by occasional red and white paint stripes leads due N down the regular rock strata. After some 20min of clambering you join path n.3 and turn R. Only minutes away, a 2225m fork signed for n.4 leads easily L (NW) down into a grazing basin often populated by cows. The valley narrows after passing diminutive Lago del Giavo, and you then drop to rejoin n.1 at the 2034m junction (1hr).
Once back at the Lago di Braies water’s edge, keep R for the delightful path along the rocky eastern shore. You pass a waterfall before a raised walkway leads round a rocky point, followed by a marshy stretch back to Hotel Lago di Braies (1494m, 1hr).
Rifugio Biella Tel 0436 866991, June to September [email protected].
A male ibex on Croda del Becco
WALK 3
Picco di Vallandro and Monte Specie
| Start/Finish | Rifugio Pratopiazza |
| Distance | 15.6km/9.7 miles |
| Ascent/Descent | 1120m |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Time | 6hr (can be shortened to 2hr 45min) |
| Maps | Tabacco n.03 or n.010 scale 1:25,000 |
| Access | In Val Pusteria, between Monguelfo and Villabassa, a road forks S for Braies followed by Ponticello, which are reachable by SAD bus. From here the next 7km to Pratopiazza are closed to private traffic in summer, but they are covered by a shuttle bus which terminates a short distance below Pratopiazza. |
Pratopiazza is one of those rare, perfect alpine basins dotted with pines and inhabited by contented dairy cows and photogenic timber chalets, but with the extra appeal of being encircled by a number of spectacular Dolomites. First and foremost it looks to majestic, deep-red Croda Rossa, ‘our blood-stained “Mount of sacrifice” for Gilbert and Churchill (1864). An ancient tale attributes the striking colour as the rock blushing in sympathy with an orphan who was brought up by marmots in the mountain’s caves; after her inevitable marriage to a handsome prince, the girl was deliberately embarrassed by a jealous noblewoman who revealed her humble background. However, she found solidarity in nature.
Pratopiazza, set 2000m above sea level and soaked in sunshine, is included in the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park and doubles as a beautiful cross-country ski area in winter. It is the start point of this walk, which touches two peaks that give astonishingly panoramic views, predominantly towards the Sesto Dolomites. In clear weather conditions they are simply brilliant. The first goal of the walk is the summit of dramatic and pointed 2839m Picco di Vallandro, the final stretch of which entails some exposure and requires a sure foot. However, this can be avoided by heading straight for the easier second walkers’ summit, 2307m Monte Specie. Also known as Strudelköpf or Heimkehrerkreuz, this unpretentious promontory is a superb vantage point that overlooks Valle di Landro but, strangely, it is not that well visited. Try and be there in the late afternoon to catch the best colours.
Pratopiazza looks over to Croda Rossa
Meals and refreshments are served at the two rifugi, as well as at Pratopiazza’s old-style hotel.
Walk
Alongside Rifugio Pratopiazza (1991m), a clear, well-trodden path marked for Picco di Vallandro (n.40) forks E past a chapel at the start of the long but extremely rewarding 800m ascent. Ignore the 2090m fork R for the time being, and plod on N up the vast sloping incline. The perfect path gradient and effect of its zigzags means you hardly notice the climb, and can enjoy the ever-improving views to Croda Rossa SW and Cristallo S. Flowers and marmots add to the distractions. You finally reach a dizzy crest at the 2700m mark. Even if you decide to make this the destination of your walk instead of carrying on to the peak, it’s still well worth coming. The concluding stretch is a short but exposed neck with a fixed chain, which terminates at the summit and cross of Picco di Vallandro (2839m, 2hr 30min). This is a stunning spot that takes in views including the Austrian Alps, Val Pusteria and the Sesto Dolomites.
Return the same way downhill to the 2090m fork (1hr) and head L to coast SE across flowered slopes above summer farms with lovely views over the Pratopiazza basin. Half an hour further along, turn L onto an old military road (n.34) with a rough white stone surface. Amid dwarf mountain pines, this winds easily up SE and narrows to a path. After a ridge, there’s a brief drop towards ruined WW1 barracks at Sella di Monte Specie (2200m). The final leg to the top – recognisable due E with its cross – cuts obliquely up a regular slope. It is not until the very last moment that the rounded top of Monte Specie (2307m, 1hr 15min) reveals its breathtaking magic: directly across the valley E you can see the wild Rondoi-Baranci group then the Tre Cime, which look like slender and sharp knife-blades from here – a view enhanced by evening shadows. Slightly further afield are the Cadini SE, and the Marmarole beyond them, as well as the Cristallo due S and the Tofane SW.
Retrace your steps downhill, sticking to the military road all the way to friendly Rifugio Vallandro (2040m, 45min). Close-by you can see the castle-like ruins of a prominent Austrian fort, a witness to the activity here during the 1915–1918 conflict.
Turn R (NW) along the 4WD track (n.37) that cuts across the pastoral basin dotted with red-barked Arolla pines. Remember to close all stock gates behind you as you return to Rifugio Pratopiazza (1991m, 30min).
Monte Specie is a superb lookout
Rifugio Pratopiazza Tel 0474 748650 www.plaetzwiese.com
Rifugio Vallandro Tel 0474 972505 www.vallandro.it
WALK 4
Alpe di Sennes Circuit
| Start/Finish | Rifugio Ra Stua |
| Distance | 17km/10.5 miles |
| Ascent/Descent | 830m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Time | 5hr 20min (can be shortened to 3hr) |
| Maps | Tabacco n.03 scale 1:25,000 |
| Access | On the SS51, the signed turn-off for Rifugio Ra Stua is 8km N of Cortina (near Sant’Uberto where the road curves tightly E towards Dobbiaco). The narrow 3km access road that follows is closed to traffic from mid-July to mid-September, when a shuttle bus from the Fiames Dolomiti d’Ampezzo Park office covers the distance. Car parking is, in fact, an easier proposition at Fiames. Moreover, local Cortina buses as well as SAD services stop there. |
The ancient hunting castle of Sant’Uberto