Florence has a mid-sized international airport that can be reached from major airline hubs in Europe. Upon arrival, pilgrims can share a €25 taxi for the 30-minute ride to the center city or can wait for the VolaInBus – a shuttle to the Santa Maria Novella train station that leaves every 30 minutes (from 5.30am to 1.00am, €6, cash only, exact change preferred). Santa Maria Novella is the central train station in Florence and is served by trains from all over Europe. Florence’s main attractions are all a quick walk from here, as is the Basilica of Santa Croce, start of the pilgrimage.
You can also get to Florence from Rome, whose Fiumicino Airport has excellent connections to cities around the world. The 30-min express train from the airport to Rome’s Termini Station costs €14 and from there the 1hr 30min ride to Florence costs about €38.
Santuario della Verna
Without a car, a trip to La Verna requires a train and/or bus, most often through Bibbiena.
From Florence
By bus, take the Etruria Mobilitá (www.etruriamobilita.it) to Bibbiena, and then transfer to the Pieve Santo Stefano bus to go to Santuario Della Verna. You can also take the train (www.trenitalia.com) from Florence to Arezzo, then transfer to a local TFT train (www.trasportoferroviariotoscano.it) to Bibbiena and take the Etruria Mobilitá bus from there.
From Rome
Take the train to Arezzo, transfer to the TFT train from Arezzo to Bibbiena, and then transfer to the Etruria Mobilitá bus to Santuario della Verna as above.
Assisi
Most travelers to Assisi choose to fly to Florence or Rome and then take the train to Assisi’s nearest station, Santa Maria Degli Angeli. From the station there is a €1.50 each 30min for the last 2.5km uphill to Assisi. Otherwise it’s a 45-minute walk uphill on the ‘Pax et Bonum’ pedestrian walkway from the train station to Assisi.
Assisi also shares the Aeroporto San Francesco d’Assisi (PEG) with Perugia at Sant’Egidio, about 10km out of town (www.airport.umbria.it), with direct links to several European cities including London (Stansted), Catania, Tirana, Brussels (Charleroi) and Molta. Information on the infrequent local bus (number E007) can be found at www.umbriamobilita.it under ‘S Egidio Aeroporto’, but lack of frequent runs makes it most convenient to pay the approximately €25 cab fare for the 15-minute trip to Assisi.
See Appendix B for a directory of contact details including those of local and national transport providers.
Rocca Maggiore Castle of upper Assisi (Stage 16A)
Getting around
Once in Italy there are relatively economical and simple options for getting around the country.
By train
As with most of Europe, Italy has a good train infrastructure. The TrenItalia system (www.trenitalia.com) serves several stops on the itinerary for this walk, including Florence (Stage 1), Pontassieve (Stage 2), Assisi (Stage 16), Spello (Stage 17), Foligno and Trevi (Stage 18), Spoleto (Stage 19), Marmore (Stage 21), Rieti (Stage 24) and Monterotondo (Stage 27). TrenItalia tickets are purchased at automated kiosks in train stations which take cash, credit or debit cards (PIN required). They can also be purchased online, although the system requires a membership and identification.
As mentioned above, Tuscany has the small TFT train system (www.trasportoferroviariotoscano.it) that connects Stia (Stage 4) to Bibbiena with its bus connections to Camaldoli and La Verna, plus Arezzo with its TrenItalia station connecting TFT to the main rail network. Tickets are purchased at the station or at nearby tobacco stores or cafés.
Umbria has its FCO system, now run by Umbria Mobilitá (www.umbriamobilita.it) that to and Città di Castello (Stage 11) through Perugia (and in the near future to Terni). Perugia and Terni both offer TrenItalia connections. Tickets are purchased at the station.
In Italy, always make certain to validate your ticket by stamping it in the station’s validation machine after your purchase or be ready to pay a €40 fine.
By bus
Italy’s buses are organized by region, so in Tuscany between Florence (Stage 1) and Sansepolcro (Stage 9) the Etruria Mobilitá system (www.etruriamobilita.it) serves each stop on the itinerary. Umbria Mobilitá (www.umbriamobilita.it) serves the Umbrian portion between Sansepolcro and Piediluco (Stage 22), while Cotral (www.cotralspa.it) serves the Lazio portion from Poggio Bustone (Stage 23) to Rome (Stage 28). Bus schedules are usually posted at each bus stop, and tickets can be purchased at tobacco shops or from the driver. Always remember to stamp your ticket in the validation machine behind the driver’s seat.
Appendix B includes contact details for each region’s public transport providers.
The Piazza and tower in Valfabbrica (Stage 14)
When to go
April to June and mid-August through October are the best times to walk the Way of St Francis. During these months the temperatures range from mild to hot and the rainfall is at its lowest. The weeks between 1 July and 15 August are historically the hottest of the year and are best avoided unless you’re ready for very warm temperatures.
The month of August – particularly its last weeks – is when Italians take their own holidays. For the last 2000 years Italians have celebrated Ferragosto – a two-week holiday at the end of August when Italians close their shops and retreat to the mountains and beaches. It is not unusual for small businesses and restaurants to be closed the entire month, but shops dependent on tourism (or pilgrimage) business will most always remain open.
Due to the winter climate of the highlands and the likelihood of heavy rain and snow, a pilgrimage between November and March on certain portions of the Way of St Francis is unwise. The possibility of trail washouts, overflowing streams and signage lost due to snow – not to mention the danger of hypothermia and getting lost – outweigh any advantages of walking in these months. Likewise, walking in the shoulder months of November and April can mean that some accommodation is not yet open for the season and that tiny creeks mentioned here may be swollen with the rains and snowmelt.
Pilgrims may want to coordinate their journey around special holidays in the Italian communities on the pilgrimage. Gubbio’s Corsa dei Ceri is held on 15 May each year, and Spello’s Infiorata lands on the ninth Sunday after Easter. Near Assisi are Perugia’s Umbria Jazz in July and EuroChocolate in October, and Spoleto’s Due Mondi in June/July attracts classical artists from around the world. Although the festivals are a real treat, pilgrims should be aware that accommodation might be scarce without adequate advance reservations.
Accommodation
Stages have been arranged to coincide with available lodging. Where possible, at least three accommodation options are listed per daily stage. The daily listings include low-cost hotels, agriturismi, and foresterie (guest houses), and at least one hostel, if available. Where possible the address, phone number (exclusive of the +039 prefix for Italy), email address and price for a single and double room are included.
Wherever you stay, it is important to plan ahead and make a reservation, whether you use hotels,