Water, Bassenthwaite Lake and Derwent Water. There are two significant climbs to Kirkland and Whinlatter, but the reward is great downhill riding and wonderful views. But Whitehaven is not a perfect place to start. The route out of the town is well signposted, but probably the most unattractive part of the whole C2C.
St Bees provides an interesting link route to the C2C. This is the start of Wainwright’s sea-to-sea walking route. The place is much smaller and quieter than Whitehaven, just a few miles to the south – one stop away on the train with a good connecting route provided by Hadrian’s Cycleway (NCN Route 72). St Bees is a pleasant place to stay overnight before starting the C2C cycle route, which gives cyclists the opportunity to walk up to St Bees Head and dip their feet (or front tyre) in the Irish Sea. Starting at St Bees is recommended for those who don’t mind missing the official start of the route.
Workington, to the north, provides a very different route to Keswick via Cockermouth, staying north of the Lake District until it approaches Bassenthwaite Lake. It’s less spectacular than the Whitehaven–Keswick route, mostly because there are fewer big hills. Cockermouth is an interesting small town to visit or stay at en route to Keswick, and the final section towards Bassenthwaite Lake is particularly good for those who enjoy off-road trails. Major floods during November 2009 caused extensive damage in Workington and Cockermouth, but Sustrans and the local authorities have done an excellent job keeping the C2C route open for cyclists.
Viaduct on the outskirts of Cockermouth, on the way from Workington to Keswick (Stage 1b)
Maryport, 9.5km (6 miles) along the coast to the north of Workington, provides an interesting option for an overnight stay for those who start (or finish) the C2C at Workington. It’s a smaller and more attractive town than Workington, with fine views across the Solway Firth. Hadrian’s Cycleway provides a link route to Workington, or there is a direct connection by train.
East coast
On the east coast cyclists also have a choice of finish (or start) routes in either Sunderland or Tynemouth (the route divides at Consett).
The route to Sunderland is slightly shorter and potentially a little faster than riding to Tynemouth. At least 90 per cent of the distance is traffic-free, following cycle paths and disused railway tracks. Most of the route is pleasant enough, but unremarkable, until the final few miles alongside the River Wear, which provides a superb finish to the C2C. The nearest rail link is Sunderland central station, connecting with the C2C via a signposted cycle lane.
The route to Tynemouth is a little longer, but more interesting. It’s virtually all traffic-free and very enjoyable riding between Consett and Newcastle, where the riverside waterfront is extremely attractive on a fine day. Cyclists might expect to complete the C2C with a pleasant ride along the River Tyne from Newcastle to Tynemouth, but the river is seldom seen at all. Instead the route gets fiddly and can be a little frustrating, particularly with diversions caused by roadworks, which should improve over time. The last part of the route, cycling round the marina and harbour towards the finish, is suitably fine. The Metro railway has a station within easy reach of the Tynemouth start/finish of the C2C, but it refuses to carry bikes (unless they are ‘folders’), which is a major let-down at the end of Britain’s premier cycle route. Instead, cyclists have either to ride back to Newcastle, where the main railway station is not particularly easy to find, or to take a taxi (the standard ‘black cab’ will take two bikes and riders).
The cycle path on the Tynemouth option follows the River Derwent through to the River Tyne (in the background) (Stage 5b)
Alternative routes between Keswick and Sunderland
One of the delights of the C2C is that throughout its length there is a choice of routes. In addition to the alternative start and finish points, there are some interesting variations on the central section from Keswick to Consett.
Stage 2
Some 9.5km (6 miles) west of Keswick, the C2C turns north towards Beckside and Mungrisdale on the eastern side of the Lakeland fells, after which the main route turns south to follow the side of the busy A66 trunk road. The alternative route follows quiet roads north-east and south-east from Mungrisdale.
A new optional southern loop is routed via Ullswater, Askham and Lowther Estate, rejoining the main C2C to the east of Penrith.
Looking westwards from the bottom of the off-road track above Selah Bridge – take time to stop and enjoy the superb views (Stage 3)
Stage 3
At Four End Lane, 9.5km (6 miles) from Langwathby, an off-road route leads due west to Selah Bridge and is recommended for mountain bikers. Road bikers are better off on the longer road route via Renwick, which is very pleasant.
At Selah Bridge, the road route climbs up to meet the A686, from where there is a steady climb to Hartside Café at 580m. Grinding uphill while being overtaken by cars and lorries is not much fun, and in dry, fine weather a better alternative is to use the off-road track that leads uphill from Selah Bridge. It gets steep and requires a long push, but affords magnificent views.
Alston is several kilometres off the C2C route and well worth a visit. It is signposted as Route 68 at Leadgate and follows the River South Tyne valley to the centre of the old town.
Between Garrigill and Nenthead there is the option of riding on- or off-road. Both routes involve a long climb. The road route is very quiet and pleasant, as long as it doesn’t involve riding into a head wind. The off-road route is almost twice the distance, with some parts steep and rough, but it is recommended for keen mountain bikers who have plenty of time.
Start of the track that leads up towards the final high point at Bolts Law (Stage 4)
Stage 4
At Nenthead an alternative off-road route leads directly to the top of Black Hill – the highest point of the C2C. It’s shorter than the road route, not too steep or rough, and a very good choice for those who prefer to avoid traffic and tarmac.
At Rookhope there are two routes to Parkhead. The road route is slightly longer and goes via Stanhope, which is an interesting village. The main drawback is that it ends with just over 3km (2 miles) of riding quite steeply uphill on the B6278, which may be busier than cyclists would wish with traffic. The off-road route crosses grouse moors run by the Stanhope Syndicate. It is a superb ride with magnificent views, but the route is closed occasionally during the grouse-shooting season (12 Aug to 10 Dec). This is indicated by signs at either end but the closure dates are not publicised in advance.
Taster Route 4
The Old Coach Road provides a superb off-road route leading eastwards from Castlerigg Stone Circle near Keswick, which links via minor roads to the main C2C route at Greystoke (Stage 2). Some of the Old Road is steep and rough. It provides a far more dramatic view of the Lake District than the road route, but will probably take twice the time.
Stage 5a
A new optional route connects Consett to Sunderland in a southern loop via the cathedral city of Durham.
West to east or east to west?
West to east is generally regarded as the best direction to cycle the C2C for two reasons. First, the prevailing winds blow from the west, and, secondly, the hills are longer when approached from the east, and shorter (but also steeper) when approached from the west.
However, it is conditions on the day that really count. West to east is perfect if there are steady westerlies pushing from behind, but not so great if there is a strong easterly while crossing