ROCK CLIMBING
INTRODUCTION TO ESSENTIAL TECHNICAL SKILLS FOR LEADERS AND SECONDS
by
Pete Hill MIC, FRGS
2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA, LA7 7PY
About the Author
Pete Hill MIC, FRGS has climbed in many continents and countries across the world, including first ascents in the Himalayas. He is a holder of the MIC award, the top UK instructional qualification, and has been delivering rock and mountain sports courses at the highest level for a number of years. He is a member of the Alpine Club, honorary life member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors and a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. A lack of common sense has caused him to be found on the north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn in winter, as well as on a number of other extreme routes climbed in difficult conditions in the European Alps, Africa, Nepal and India.
Pete lives in Scotland and has two daughters, Rebecca and Samantha. A frequent contributor to various magazines and websites, he is also author of The International Handbook of Technical Mountaineering and Sport Climbing, and co-author (with Stuart Johnston) of the globally successful The Mountain Skills Training Handbook. He runs both summer and winter skills courses from beginner through to advanced level, and can be contacted via his website at www.petehillmic.com.
© Pete Hill 2007
ISBN 13: 978-1-85284-529-2
Reprinted 2008 (with updates)
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
To my parents, for putting up with it all over the years!
Acknowledgements
As always, I’m indebted to friends, acquaintances and others who have eased the passage of this project through their unselfish help and support. Chris Pretty gets the blame for the original idea for this book, and it is down to him that my family has hardly seen me for a few months. Jonathan Preston and Rob Johnson kindly let me use some of their climbing photographs, and my thanks go to them. Rebecca and Samantha Hill unflinchingly assisted with belaying and climbing for some of the photographs, and both deserve my gratitude. James Hotchkiss helped with a huge photo session on a particularly raw December day, so in the absence of a medal he will have to do with my heartfelt appreciation.
Equipment support was generously supplied by a number of companies, with particular thanks to Frank Bennett at Lyon Equipment (www.lyon.co.uk), Beal for the ropes and software (www.bealplanet.com), Petzl for various hardware (www.petzl.com), DMM for technical hardware such as wires and cams (www.dmmclimbing.com) and La Sportiva (www.lasportiva.com) for rock shoes.
Finally, Paula Griffin once again burnt the midnight oil trying to make sense of my often illegible scratchings, as well taking part in many photographic sessions, and for that – as well as being the perfect climbing partner – I am eternally grateful.
Note
To avoid confusion when describing sequences of moves the use of ‘they’ has been avoided. Where appropriate, the pronouns ‘he’, ‘him’ and ‘his’ are used to refer to both male and female climbers and seconds.
Disclaimer
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the instructions and techniques in this book cover the subject safely and in full detail, the author and publishers cannot accept any responsibility for any accident, injury, loss or damage sustained while following any of the techniques described.
Front cover: Jonathan Preston on ‘Probe’, E1 5b, Creag Dubh in northern Scotland
CONTENTS
Appendix 1: Fall Factors and Forces
Appendix 2: Selected Climbing Venues
‘Fingerwrecker’, HVS 5c – steep granite climbing at the Pass of Ballater
INTRODUCTION
This book is aimed, quite simply, at anyone who wishes to climb. Although billed as an introduction to rock climbing, it will be relevant for anyone who wishes to extend or improve his or her technical skills for single- or multi-pitch routes, whether wanting to second, lead or top-rope.
Rock climbing has become a huge participation sport, and the number of people taking to the crags increases substantially every year. Many climbers – including me – were initially self-taught; some have been mentored by friends; a few will have learnt their skills on a formally instructed climbing course. The intention of this book is that the techniques described will