Trekking in the Zillertal Alps. Allan Hartley

individuals should be kept taut to limit the effect of a fall. Where crevasses pose a very real risk, such as when they are large or their extent is unknown, the rope leader’s second (middle man) should belay, while the rope leader traverses or jumps the crevasse. At the same time the group’s anchorman will be similarly belayed a safe distance away. While these procedures may seem complicated and time-consuming, with a little practice they should become second nature.

      The purpose behind these techniques is to prevent climbers falling into crevasses and to ensure glaciers are crossed safely. Most mountaineers will spend many hours crossing glaciers without any serious mishap. Experienced mountaineers will be able to recall falling into crevasses up to the waist, a few to the chest and the odd one falling through the surface to the glacier below. In most instances during a fall climbers can react quickly enough to spread their weight by outstretching their arms or by falling backwards to prevent themselves falling further. Once the fall is arrested, the group’s second (the group leader) should belay while the anchorman uses their weight and position to secure the belay, which then frees the group leader to make use of the anchorman’s coiled spare rope to effect the rescue and haul the leader free.

      Should the leader fall free and end up inside the crevasse, it is important that the rest of the party work quickly. If the leader has fallen into a concealed crevasse it is likely that they will be hurt. This is due to the fact that their rucksack will have jarred, pushing the head forward and banging it on the ice during the fall. In such situations there are a number of options to choose from, but all will be useless unless the group has spent a little time practising crevasse rescue techniques. This is absolutely essential.

      In this situation, provided the rope leader is uninjured, it may be possible to:

       simply haul them out of the crevasse using brute force

       help the rope leader to Prusik out of the crevasse under their own steam

       by lowering the end of the surplus rope, rescue the rope leader by using a combination of hauling and Prusiking using the Assisted Hoist Rope Pulley method (see diagram).

      If the rope leader is injured, then the actual group leader will have to go into the crevasse to perform first aid and secure the second haulage rope. Thereafter, once the group leader (the middle man if there are three of you) is back on the surface it is just about possible for the group leader and anchorman to haul the rope leader to the surface, using the Prusik loops to lock off the hauling rope. In this scenario a full-blown mountain rescue is perhaps the correct decision.

      The UK Section of the Austrian Alpine Club organises basic training for glacier crossing and crevasse rescue through the OeAV Alpenverein Akademie. Contact the AAC (UK) Office for details, www.aacuk.org.uk.