the ‘locked-in’ feeling can be unnerving if you are not used to it, so only make this progression when you are confident.
What to take
Which type of bike?
All the routes in this book could be done on road bikes, in which case you will need to follow the on-road detours marked on the maps and highlighted in the sidebar beside some route descriptions. But you’ll have more fun, and be able to explore quieter trails and tracks, if you’re prepared to take a mountain bike or a hybrid (or ‘sturdy’) bike, which will manage the off-road sections fine in dry conditions. In wet conditions, the best bike to take, if you wish to tackle the off-road sections, will be a mountain bike.
Other basic equipment
Reputable cycle hire centres will usually provide you with a lock, pump and helmet free of charge. Most will also provide a small repair kit (enough to change an inner tube), but you may well have to ask for this. A lock is a good idea if you plan to leave your cycle unattended.
Although many hire centres will encourage you to wear a helmet, there is no requirement under UK law to wear one and it is entirely up to individual cyclists to decide for themselves. Parents should bear in mind younger children’s vulnerability and instability; protective gear comes in all shapes and colours these days and will not necessarily seem ‘uncool’ or off-putting to young people.
Toolkit
Appendix D contains detailed information about the tools you might need on a cycle trip – including a step-by-step puncture repair guide.
Water bottles
These (one or two, depending on route length) can be held in frame-mounted bottle cages.
Luggage
Although it is possible to carry day kit in a small rucksack, it is much more pleasant and comfortable to carry things in a handlebar bag, rear rack bag or (for larger loads) panniers. Handlebar bags with a clear top pocket to carry a map can be particularly useful. If you use electronic rather than paper maps you may prefer the type that securely holds a small tablet. Smartphone apps (such as Strava or MapMyRide) for cycling are becoming increasingly common; they provide electronic mapping and a log (along with stats) of your route, and they may well become the norm in the future. But beware: satellite GPS eats batteries. Many cyclists also complain of poor visibility in bright light, and smartphones are expensive to replace if damaged by rain, mud or falls.
All luggage should be properly and securely fitted using appropriate brackets, with panniers also requiring a rear rack. Beware of wheels becoming snagged by loose straps or floppy panniers.
Maps
The size of this book constrains the scale of mapping that can be used within it; as such, it is advisable to take with you some form of larger-scale mapping, such as Ordnance Survey (OS) 1:50K Landranger or 1:25K Explorer sheets. (Downloaded electronic versions are good, but beware of relying on online-only versions such as Open Street Map or Google Maps, as these require a strong mobile signal, lots of battery power, a clear view of the sky and phone-based satellite GPS.)
Explorer: sheet 45 covers much of the northern Cotswolds; elsewhere you will need sheets 155, 156, 167, 168, 179, 180, 191 or 205
Landranger: sheets 151, 163, 164, 172 or 173
Relevant local sheets seem to be becoming less commonly available in local village stores and petrol stations, and are perhaps best bought in advance of a visit.
Waymarking and access
Gates
Gates are very common in the Cotswolds – expect to find one at each end of every field and across any nice off-road downhill
Gates abound on entry to/exit from and between fields, particularly on bridleways (rather than byways). I have only mentioned gates where they are vital for navigation, but if you assume there will be a gate at the start and end of every field and across any good downhill off-road trail, you won’t go far wrong!
Waymarking signs
Many of the routes in this book make use of Sustrans National Cycle Network routes. These are often waymarked with bright blue stickers on lamp posts and other street furniture – places where the signs are easy to spot and harder for bored kids to remove or redirect than conventional fingerposts. They can be very useful, particularly in built-up areas.
Rights of way
Cyclists are permitted on bridleways, restricted byways (no motorised vehicles) and byways (all vehicles allowed).
Bridleways are usually marked with a blue arrow; byways with a ‘byway’ sign, or sometimes a red arrow; footpaths (which cyclists may not legally ride on) with a yellow arrow. However, it is generally accepted that you can dismount and walk with your bike over a footpath, as is required for a short section of Route 6. Clearly, common sense must also apply: you should not try to push a bike over a narrow single-file footpath where this would cause inconvenience to walkers.
To confuse the situation, however, there are some footpaths you may ride on. These are typically in urban areas, where many footpaths have become shared pedestrian/cycle path routes (and should be marked with a blue bicycle symbol, sometimes with and sometimes without a pedestrian symbol).
For some other paths the rights are either unclear, lost in time, or (again, particularly in urban areas) in the process of change. They might be commonly used by cycles without landowner opposition, or (occasionally) with landowner encouragement. You should always approach such areas with caution, and if challenged be prepared to dismount or deviate.
Cycle path etiquette
This is particularly important when the route is busy and shared with pedestrians.
It’s fine to go fast if the way is clear, but always slow down to a gentle pace when nearing and passing pedestrians or slower cyclists, or on narrow sections of route.
Sound your bell as you get close to pedestrians and slower cyclists if you wish to pass them, as this is easiest for other path users to comprehend on a busier route.
When passing other cycles or pedestrians, use normal road sense: cycle on the left when meeting oncoming people, and don’t overtake if the way ahead isn’t clear!
Be extremely cautious when cycling under bridges and tunnels – these are often very narrow with restricted headroom at one side, and visibility is often limited.
Take great care passing dogs (or lone walkers whose dogs may be hidden in the undergrowth), as these can unpredictably change direction or run out in front of you, sometimes with a long ‘tripwire’ lead between them and their owner.
Cycling efficiently
The routes in this book are intended for anyone of average fitness upwards. You do not have to be an athlete by any means, but you will need a basic level of fitness. The following advice may help with hills and off-road sections if you are new to cycling.
Uphill cycling
Uphill through Upper Swainswick village (Route 10)
I regularly see novice (and not-so novice!) cyclists struggling to push a bike up a steep hill, when just a few simple tips could turn a frustrating slog into a fun challenge (well, OK… perhaps the fun really comes from overcoming the ascent rather than the uphill effort itself). It’s so much more enjoyable when you can stay on the bike uphill as well as downhill.
Use all of your lowest gears. That particularly includes those found on the smallest ‘hill-climbing’ front ring, which so many people ignore. Selecting a low gear in good time and moving gently uphill is far more efficient than standing on the pedals in too high a gear, or going too fast at