group).
There are plenty of other campsites and rental accommodation throughout the valley – they are similarly priced to Termignon and offer quiet sites in picturesque surroundings.
Mountain refuges
The range of refuges in the mountains is very welcome whether as a base for a multi-day adventure, a single night as a launch pad to a summit or just for a welcome drink or spot of lunch. Many of them are owned by the French Alpine Club (CAF), while others are owned by the national park (PNV) and some are privately run. Costs are broadly similar but do vary from hut to hut, with demi-pension (three-course evening meal, dormitory bed and breakfast) costing around €40 in 2011.
There is a certain refuge etiquette which should be observed when staying in mountain huts. If you transgress these unwritten rules you can expect scowls and displeasure from the guardian!
First, and probably most important of all, is to pre-book. Turning up on spec means the hut may already be full, although the guardian is unlikely to turn you away it could mean you spend the night on the floor of the dining room with a blanket, in the woodshed (as happened to a friend in Austria) or in a corridor. None of these are particularly appealing options; a simple phone call can avoid such discomfort. It is possible to book huts further in advance via tourist information offices or via email from the CAF website and this is recommended in the height of summer, especially at weekends.
The Vallonbrun Refuge nestled into its hidden valley with Dent Parrachée in the distance (Routes 2 and 49)
On arrival remove your boots in the porch/entrance hall. Put them in a pigeon hole (or whatever storage is present) and put on the clogs or slippers provided (or put on your own if you have decided to carry them). Then report to the guardian. Never enter in your boots – you will be scowled at (or worse) and it will instantly identify you as a novice and foreigner to mountain huts. The guardian and his/her assistants spend a lot of time keeping the refuge clean and will not welcome muddy footprints across their dining room floor.
If you have a British Mountaineering Club (BMC) or Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) reciprocal rights card present it to the guardian as you register for a reduction in fees – these are only usually accepted at Club Alpin Français (CAF) huts. Tell him/her your plans for tomorrow as you will be placed in a dormitory with people needing to get up at a similar time. (This is more of an issue when you are climbing and therefore need to get up at 4am or even earlier!) It is also worth being aware that there are no single-sex dormitories; they are all mixed.
At this point you will be asked whether you want evening meals and may be allocated first or second sitting if it is really busy. Vegetarians need a good sense of humour as evening meals often consist of eggs and something or pasta and sauce – tell the guardian of any special dietary requirements when you book in. It is also possible to self-cater and huts carry a range of implements but charge for the use of the stove and gas.
Lights out is usually relatively early (9 or 10pm); sort your kit out well before then. When you arrive take wet things to the drying room then organise your other kit: lay out your sheet sleeping bag, find your headtorch, wallet and other belongings. You will be the most unpopular dormitory resident if you start rummaging for things when others are trying to sleep.
Pay your bill before you go to bed. The guardian is usually very busy in the morning and you might waste a lot of time waiting for him/her to be available, while everyone else is setting off. Ensure you have cash as very few huts take credit cards.
Don't forget to check the drying room before you leave; it could be a long trek back for anything you've left behind!
Language
Typical signposting
French is the language of the region, but Italian is also spoken as the region has had long-standing links with Italy; indeed ‘ciao’ is the standard greeting in the upper valley. English is spoken in tourist information centres but not necessarily by all staff. Younger members of staff often have a smattering of English but fluent English speakers are few and far between. The proprietor of Bar Marine in Termignon has a good command of English and makes great efforts to welcome English visitors. As always, a game attempt in French is welcomed and the long tradition of catering for travellers throughout the ages means visitors are invariably welcomed and helped. A French phrase book will be a worthwhile investment! You are entering French France.
Rescue is professional and efficient; make sure you have sufficient insurance cover
Insurance and rescue
The European Health Insurance Card (replacement for the E111, forms are available online from Department of Health) allows access to the same standard of healthcare as a French national; this is not free at point of delivery like the NHS so good insurance is also required. Insurance needs to include mountain rescue cover and helicopter evacuation. The two most popular options are Snowcard or BMC. To access BMC insurance you need to be a member of the BMC; if not then the membership fees will need to be taken into consideration which will add to the costs. Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) membership also includes annual rescue and repatriation insurance cover with no age limit. Snowcard insurance allows cover to be customised; if you have house contents cover then possessions are probably already covered so it is possible to purchase medical only or medical with cancellation cover, which is significantly cheaper with Snowcard. If you are a couple then you only pay 1.6 times the single person's premium too. Don't forget to photocopy everything and keep it in a waterproof bag.
Make sure the appropriate Mountain Rescue phone numbers are in your mobile before you need them. This will make dialling them in the case of an emergency much easier than trying to dial a long number under extreme stress with cold fingers in the rain or snow.
European Emergency: 112 (118 in Italy)
Be aware, too, that in many parts of the mountains the phone network connects to the stronger Italian signal so a call to French Mountain Rescue may well be via the Italian emergency services.
Helicopter Communications
Do not wave to a helicopter. To indicate that help is needed hold both arms up in a Y shape (see below). To indicate that no help is needed hold one arm diagonally up and the other diagonally down.
Maps and navigation
The French IGN ‘Top 25’ 1:25,000 maps are excellent. They identify the main paths in easy-to-see red, and more difficult sections are marked as red dots. They are sold at supermarkets and many other shops and cost around €9 each. Alternatively, they can be purchased online before you visit and there is now the option of a laminated version. (This isn't available in France, just in the Aqua3 online map shop.) Termignon is one of those places that is on the join of three maps, so three maps are needed to cover the whole area. An alternative is the 1:50,000 map (the Carte de Randonnées A3: Alps Vanoise) which clearly identifies waymarked walking routes, climbing sites, via ferrata venues and mountain bike areas.
1:25,000 Maps
3534OT Les Trois Vallées Modane
3633ET Tignes, Val d'Isère, Haute Maurienne
3634OT Val Cenis Charbonnel
The most recent editions of these maps show the extent of glacial retreat in a different colour.
If you are bringing a GPS, ensure it is programmed to datum WGS 84 and the grid system to UTM/UPS otherwise all grid references will be inaccurate. Don't forget to reprogramme it to UK settings on your return or the same problems will occur back in the UK.
Unlike the UK, paths are waymarked