then a second one. The summit is in view by now, and you can see that it is well set back with still some way to go.
The path now sweeps round to the R to maintain height before gradually curling back L towards the summit where it runs below, but parallel to, the main ridge. The path never reaches the ridge so you must abandon it and work diagonally up the grassy slopes to a ridge path that follows a wire fence to the top. Better still, aim direct for the ridge immediately after the second fence. That way you gain height sooner with an overview of the lonely Pen Tyrau uplands and their scattering of teardrop tarns.
Arenig Fawr from the west
Arenig Fawr from the north (AG1)
Craig y Bychau route (AG2)
At 823393, just E on Pont Rhyd-y-fen, a gritty spur road breaks away from the country road from Bala, heading W. Follow this for a short 0.5 mile to a sheepfold adjoining a disused quarry. (You are spoilt for choice because a dismantled rail track parallels you R while a green path contours across the hillside up-slope L.) At the quarry change to a stony path that moves away S to curl round Arenig Fawr's W flank with Moel Llyfnant building up imposingly ahead.
Keep L after passing the ruined homestead of Amnodd-wen where a farm road curves round before you. The R fork leads to Moel Llyfnant (AG6). Carry on for about 1 mile until the road peters out by an old stone wall high up on the exposed col between Arenig Fawr and Moel Llyfnant. Turn L and follow the wall (no track) to the skyline. Topping the rise brings quite a surprise; a secluded enclave of outcrops, grassland and lakelets, snuggling serenely beneath Arenig Fawr's protective bulk.
A steep trudge up the S ridge follows with grass gradually yielding to scree and impressive views of the crags of Carreg y Diocyn. It is hard work and you will be glad of the excuse of a last view of the lakes to take a brief rest when you reach Arenig Fawr's subsidiary top at 828366. Only a quick down-and-up then remains to put you on the main top.
W face direct (AG3)
Just beyond Amnodd-wen you can struggle directly up the hillside to gain the summit ridge slightly N of the cairn, using a shallow groove that slants across the face of the mountain and which you can discern from almost anywhere to the W of it. A brute!
N approach (AG4)
For an adventurous way down follow the fence from the trig point until, after 1 mile, you come to a plateau of clumpy heather, rocky terraces and scattered tarns not unlike one of the more benign parts of the Rhinogs. Keep E for views of the crags towering over Llyn Arenig Fawr, then march on to the NE corner of the plateau at 839382 where a break in the crags permits a rough but practical line of descent to AG1. Care is needed as the slopes are covered in deep tussocky heather with half-hidden boulders and the occasional pothole; not unlike one of the more tiresome parts of the Rhinogs!
Moel Llyfnant
It is never easy to live in the shadow of a famous relation, and that is precisely Moel Llyfnant's problem. Seen from the Lliw Valley, Arenig Fawr and Moel Llyfnant stand very much on equal terms. From the more usual N viewpoints, however, Moel Llyfnant is totally outclassed – small, grassy, smooth and round where Arenig Fawr is vast, rugged and photogenic. However, it is still a worthy addition to a day spent exploring its better half. Although it is a predominantly grassy hill, Moel Llyfnant is capped with a small rocky crown and sprouts minor crags on its S and W flanks that demand respect in mist.
N ridge (AG5)
Walk to Amnoddwen as in AG2 and then branch R through the forest. After a second deserted farm, Amnodd-bwll, stay with the path as it curls round Llyfnant's N ridge and peters out. Now take to the hillside for a short slog up to the summit cairn. This simple walk can also be commenced from the A4212 at 806385 where a forest road signposted to Nantddu leads to Amnodd-bwll (AG5,1).
E face (AG6)
Follow AG2 to the col between Arenig Fawr and Moel Llyfnant, then prepare for a hard grind up the hillside. The col is marshy in places, and dry feet are best ensured by staying close to the remnants of a tumbledown wall. Tiring though it can be in hot weather, this is the best way up Moel Llyfnant as there is something about this lonely col that makes the ascent a strangely rewarding experience. Arenig Fawr is tremendous across the valley.
SW face (AG7)
A SW descent is useful if you wish to move on to Foel Boeth. It is simply a matter of rambling down the rough broken slope until you meet the bulldozed road that penetrates the upper reaches of the Lliw Valley near the farmstead of Beudy Uchaf at 797344. In mist proceed N from the summit for about 200 paces before dropping down in order to avoid some minor crags.
S approach (AG8)
For another descent follow the summit fence S until you are clear of crags R. It is then a straightforward but soggy trek down to the road near Pont Blaen-lliw.
Foel Boeth
Seekers after excitement should look elsewhere. Foel Boeth is the undistinguished top of a dull featureless ridge that rambles on for nearly 2 miles without any significant variation in height or, indeed, much at all to set it apart from the drabness of the surrounding moors. The most likely reason for tackling it is simple ‘peak bagging’. Strictly speaking it is, like Arenig Fawr, a twin-topped peak with Gallt y Daren at 778345 marginally higher than Foel Boeth itself (but this is merely hair-splitting when there is so little of character on either ‘top’).
S and E approaches (AG9)
Foel Boeth can be plodded up almost anywhere from the mountain road to the S or from the stony road that penetrates the upper Lliw Valley from Pont Blaen-lliw at 802336. With damp tussocky grass the staple fare, there is much to be said for keeping the tramp as short as possible!
Arenig Fach
Arenig Fach looks singularly uninspiring from Arenig Fawr or the road; not worth climbing. What a contrast when it is viewed from the Migneint or Carnedd y Filiast! Then it assumes a dominating air and looks every inch a mountain, even though there is still no sign of the craggy E face that watches over the almost unknown Llyn Arenig Fach. This is a shy hill and one whose treasures must be coaxed.
The vast summit plateau is ideal for sunbathing: cushions of heather to lie on, bilberries to feast on, dips for shelter from the wind, plus views to uplift the spirit. All the Arenigs are splendid viewpoints but Arenig Fach is twice blessed, towering as it does over the Migneint's wilderness of moorland and bog. Even a dull day cannot entirely dispel the magic, while in sunlight the mosaic of purples and greens, yellows and browns, hillocks and dips, pastures and streams, casts an ethereal spell that will live in your memory.
Note Caution is de rigeur in mist; on three sides slopes are steep and quickly lead to rough trackless terrain. When in doubt steer a SE course, later trending E, to let the gentle Bryn Du ridge (AG12) bring you safely down.
S approach (AG10)
Leave the A4212 through a gate at 826400 (opposite the entrance to Rhyd-y-Fen Farm) and climb steeply N over ancient pastures, crossing several tumbledown walls on the way, until you meet a more substantial wall beyond which grass succumbs to unbroken heather. Continue slightly W of N, keeping to the crest of a shallow ridge. There is no track but despite the heather the going is a joy, with only the occasional hidden boulder to watch out for.
Avoid the urge to forge ahead when the trig point peeps over the skyline. Instead bear R above the lowering crags that cradle Llyn Arenig Fach in