Simon Flower

Canyoning in the Alps


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escapes). The result is a grade in the form v4.a3.IV, meaning the canyon has a vertical rating of 4, an aquatic rating of 3 and an engagement level of IV.

      Rope length

      With repeated wet–dry cycles a rope can shrink by as much as 10 per cent of its original length, which means that a factory-stamped 50m rope may well turn out to be a few metres short on a 50m pitch. All pitch lengths and rope lengths quoted assume the use of a pre-shrunk rope. It is therefore essential to soak and dry the rope a few times, then remeasure it, before canyoning with it for the first time. The topo should not be relied upon too heavily for individual pitch lengths, given the difficulty of measuring pitches accurately while canyoning.

      Descent times

      Descent times are only a guide. They are based on a party of four canyoners with a level of experience appropriate for the descent, and assume normal summer conditions.

      AIC rigging

      The Associazione Italiano Canyoning (AIC) has equipped a number of canyons across Italy. The rigging is generally of a very high standard on double P-hangars and chains in well thought-out positions. The list of canyons equipped is growing – check the ‘Progetto pro canyon’ link on the AIC website.

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      Low water levels makes Chiadola (Route 69 in the Friuli Dolomites) great for beginners

      Tick rating

      Tick bites are a particular risk in Carnia and the Julian Alps and in the Dolomites. In these chapters the canyons are given a tick rating, dependent on the chance of encountering ticks during approach walks. Walks are graded 1 = small risk to legs only, 2 = bites to legs guaranteed without protection, or 3 = bites everywhere a possibility (ie a proper thrash in the undergrowth!). Risk is greatly reduced by taking simple precautions (see the introduction to ‘The Belluno and Friuli Dolomites’ for details).

      Left or right?

      In describing directions on the approach walk or in the canyon, the ‘true’ (or ‘orographic’) direction is given if there could otherwise be confusion. For example the ‘true’ right of a river is the right side of the river when facing in the direction of flow.

      TIP

      If you are taking a digital camera along, take a photo of the canyon description, topo and access details to refer to if needed, rather than taking this book down the canyon.

      Time zone GMT +1

      Language Italy and Ticino – Italian; Austria and Swiss Valais – German; Slovenia – Slovenian

      Currency Euro (€) in Italy, Austria and Slovenia; Swiss Franc (CHF) in Switzerland

      Visas Not required for citizens of the EU, US, Canada, Australia or New Zealand if staying less than three months. South Africans require a ‘Shengen’ Visa, allowing travel across the borderless states of mainland Europe.

      International dialling code Italy +39 (for landlines, the zero of the area code must be included in the number dialled; for mobile phones it must be excluded); Switzerland +41; Austria +43; Slovenia +386

      Electricity Switzerland has a three-pin plug system, while Italy has two-pin plugs with two different diameters. Take a universal plug to be certain.

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      The spectacular pitch-head at the end of the second encased section of Lodrino Inferiore (Route 33, Ticino)

      VAL D’OSSOLA

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      Sunny, open canyoning typical of Val d’Ossola (Route 5)

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      On first arriving in Val d’Ossola, you would be forgiven for feeling a bit apprehensive. The valley itself is a busy trunk route to Switzerland, lined with commerce and light industry. It is fairly nondescript on account of its steep, forested sides, and – worse still – there’s not a canyon in sight! But delve into the side-valleys and the region starts to reveal its charm. Higher up, the forested foothills give rise to grassy clearings and mountain vistas. Seldom-trodden footpaths wind between tumbledown hamlets, while to the north and east two protected areas lend rugged beauty and isolation. Yet this is a region overlooked by foreign tourists. Most remain on the periphery, lured south to the sunny shores of Lake Maggiore or west to the mountaineering peaks along the Swiss border.

      Canyoning here began in the early 1990s following the work of visiting French speleologists. Given the wealth of sporting routes in the area, it remained surprisingly little known outside Italy until just a few years ago. The region is gaining popularity, though, and justifiably so. The canyons here range from tall and spectacularly eroded gneiss chasms to high mountain water-parks, with abundant water and deep, sunny pools. A good selection of easier routes caters for less experienced parties, but – like everywhere else in the Italian Alps – those with more experience will get the most out of the region.

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      Rasiga Superiore (Route 3) – endless deep pools and sunshine

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      The final pitch in Mondelli 1 (Route 5a)

      WHERE TO STAY

      Domodossola’s central position makes it an ideal base. Shops and services are plentiful and the centre itself is surprisingly pleasant. Unfortunately, there is little suitable accommodation nearby. Most campsites are about a 30min drive away in different directions, and self-catering accommodation is surprisingly hard to find. Whether camping or self-catering, make sure that you are happy with the driving times to the canyons you plan to do. Note that the lakeside campsites are likely to be full in peak season. See Appendix C for details of campsites in the area.

      The most useful websites for self-catering accommodation are that of the Comunità Montana Valli dell’Ossola (www.cmvo.it/UnDormire.asp), Ossolaland (www.ossolaland.com) and the Lake District tourist information (www.distrettolaghi.it). Local tourist offices (see Appendix D) may also be able to help.

      PRACTICALITIES

      Shops and services

      While most settlements along principal roads have at least basic amenities, the major shops, banks and supermarkets can be found in and around Domodossola. The biggest supermarket is just off the SS33, near the Bognanco turn-off.

      Gear shops

      There are a few gear shops in the area. Surprisingly, given the popularity of canyoning in the area, none have much in the way of canyoning equipment. The options (at the time of writing) are

       Mosoni Sport on the northern fringes of Domodossola, on the main road that runs through town (Via Giovanni XXIII 74, tel +39 0324 242879, www.mosonisport.it).

       Sport Extreme in Domodossola, en route to Bognanco from the SS33 (Via Nosera, tel +39 0324 248390, www.sportextrem.it)

       Decontecno in Crodo (tel +39 0324 618888, www.decontecno.it)

       Sportway,