as do the mineral landscapes of Cabo de Gata. Each region is described in greater detail in its corresponding section but – rest assured – there’s superb walking in every one of them.
There are many terms to describe a protected area in Andalucía: Unesco Biosphere Reserve, Parque Natural, Paraje Natural and so on. All seven coastal regions described fall into one of these categories apart from the Sierra de Mijas which is soon to gain protected status. If all of these areas now have some form of waymarking in place, this only partially covers the routes described in this book and in many cases marker posts are damaged or missing. But with the map sections and walking notes, and the GPS tracks if you use them, you’ll have no problems in finding your way.
The walks in this book are generally one of three types. There are walks which link different coastal villages, others which are circular itineraries which involve some walking at the ocean’s edge, and a third group of inland circuits and gorge walks just a few kilometres back from the sea. At some point during all of the walks you’ll be treated to vistas of the Atlantic or the Mediterranean.
Seven coastal regions
The different walking areas are arranged in seven sections which correspond to the different Natural Parks and protected areas, or combinations of them. In just a few instances the walks described fall just outside official park boundaries, while the Sierra de Míjas will soon be officially declared a protected area. At the beginning of each chapter you’ll find a more detailed overview of each area. The brief description that follows will give an idea of the kind of walking and terrain you can expect to encounter. The first two Natural Parks are on the Costa de la Luz, the next three are on the Costa de la Sol.
La Breña y las Marismas
Walkway leading to La Playa de Zahora near Cape Trafalgar (Costa de la Luz, Walk 5)
The five walks listed are all close to the towns of Vejer, Conil, Los Caños de Meca and Zahara de los Atunes. Most walks follow footpaths very close to the ocean apart from the Marismas circuit, a marsh walk just a few kilometres inland, and the Santa Lucía circuit which is a fifteen-minute drive from the ocean and explores the hills north of Vejer. Gradients are generally gentle in the coastal hinterland while sea breezes help make even summer walking enjoyable.
Los Alcornocales y del Estrecho
The five walks described are close to Los Barrios, Pelayo, Bolonia and Gibraltar. I’ve listed a Gibraltar walk in a southern Spanish walking guide because it’s a stunning excursion and easy to access. Three walks follow footpaths along the ocean’s edge while the other two, which involve more climbing, introduce you to the beautiful southern flank of the Alcornocales park and its unique canuto ecosystem.
La Sierra Bermeja y Sierra Crestellina
Casares seen from the east (Costa del Sol, Walk 13)
Of the five walks listed, two lead out from Casares, one from close to the village and another from a point just north of Manilva while the Pico Reales circuit involves a short drive north from Estepona. Although all walks lie a few kilometres inland you can expect incredible views of the Mediterranean, Morocco and Gibraltar. Be prepared for sections of steepish climbing on all walks although none are graded ‘difficult’.
La Sierra de las Nieves
Of the six walks described one leads out from Marbella and two from El Refugio de Juanar while three hikes begin in the pretty mountain village of Istán. Most walks involve steep sections of climbing though two are quite short in distance. The magnificent Concha ascent is one of the few walks within these pages for which a head for heights is required and there are a couple of points where you’ll need to use your hands as well as your feet.
La Sierra de Mijas
The six walks described begin in the villages of Mijas, Benalmádena, Alhaurín de la Torre and Alhaurín el Grande and lead you to the most beautiful corners of the compact, yet stunningly varied landscape of the Sierra de Mijas. All walks involve sections of steep climbing, while all are easy to follow thanks to the recent waymarking of the local PR and GR footpaths.
La Sierra de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama
Looking north into the Higuerón gorge (Costa Tropical, Walk 30)
The villages of Cómpeta, Canillas de Aceituno and Frigiliana are all situated high on the southern flank of the Sierra de Almijara on the Costa Tropical. All three look out to the Mediterranean and their history and economy have always been inextricably linked to that of the coast. The Maroma ascent, the Imán trail and the Blanquillo circuit are big, full-day walks, the exhilarating gorge walk just inland from Nerja is not be missed while the La Herradura circuit leads you past two of the Costa Tropical’s most beautiful beaches.
Níjar-Cabo de Gata
The volcanic landscapes of the Cabo de Gata region on the Costa de Almería are unique to southern Spain and walks here have a haunting beauty all of their own. In all but the summer months you can expect to meet with few other walkers and the small coastal villages of Agua Amarga, Las Negras and San José have a great range of accommodation for all budgets. The best time of year to be here is spring, when the desert-like landscapes briefly take on a hue of green while in winter this is the region of Andalucía where you’re most likely to see warm and sunny weather.
Plants and wildlife
Two major highlights of any walk in southern Spain come in the form of the flowers and birds you see along the way.
Andalucía is among the best birding destinations in Europe and ornithological tourism has grown rapidly in recent years. The best time for birdwatching is during the spring and autumn migrations between Europe and North Africa, but at any time, in all parks covered in this guide, you can expect rich bird life. As well as seasonal visitors there are more than 250 species present throughout the year.
The marshes close to Barbate is one of the best sites in southern Spain for observing wading birds, both sedentary and migratory, while at the eastern end of Andalucía the salt flats of the Cabo de Gata Natural Park provide a superb observatory for wader and duck species such as ibis, spoonbills and coots as well as greater flamingos.
(clockwise from top) Griffon Vulture, Bee-eater and Crested Lark (images courtesy of Richard Cash of Alto Aragón)
One of Europe’s most remarkable wildlife events are the annual migrations across the Strait of Gibraltar. This offers the chance to observe thousands of raptors including Egyptian, griffon and black vultures; golden, imperial, booted and Bonelli’s eagles; honey buzzards and harriers as well as storks and smaller passerines. The birds circle up on the thermal currents then glide between the two continents. The migration into Spain takes place between February and May while birds heading south can be seen from August through to late October.
If you’d like a list of the more common species, visit www.cicerone.co.uk/803/resources.
For further information about birding resources and organised birding tours and walks, see Appendix B (Useful contacts).
Wildflowers in spring
The southern coastline also offers rich rewards for botanists. Forty per cent of all species found in Iberia are present in Andalucía and many of these grow in the coastal region. The annual wildflower explosion in late spring is as good as any in southern Europe, especially in areas where the rural exodus has ensured that much of the land has never seen the use of pesticides. For a list of 300 of the more common species, with