days throughout the year.
However, the climate has a great capacity to catch you out. A hot day in summer can start sunny and clear but a tremendous thunderstorm can suddenly build up in the early afternoon. Typically, that storm could – but not always – vent its fury in less than 30min. In winter there might be weeks of mild, dry weather followed by a day in which half a metre of snow is suddenly dumped on higher ground.
The occasional fierce and unrelenting winds may also surprise. One such wind is the tramontane, which comes from the northwest. Its often-cold temperature can be guarded against with adequate warm clothing and, insofar as it may blow away the clouds and let the sun shine through, it can be welcome. But take great care if you are walking on a hill or mountain ridge when the tramontane is at full blast.
WIND TURBINES
You will often see lines of wind turbines stretched out across high plateaux, now almost as characteristic of Cathar castle country as the castles themselves. None of the walks in this book passes beneath or very close to these.
Weather: usually sunny and warm, but be ready for occasional surprises (this was the summit of the Pech de Bugarach on an abnormal day in mid-April)
The climate also varies a great deal from east to west. On any given day, the weather in the east may be hot and dry, while in the west conditions could be cooler with occasional showers. The vegetation shows corresponding differences. For example, in the east you will find dry, open plateaux covered in garrigue vegetation – scented, often spiky Mediterranean shrubs and herbs. By contrast, in the west there is much humid deciduous forest, where beech trees grow to regal proportions.
Less surprisingly, the climate also changes with altitude. The walks in this book vary from a canal towpath walk at near sea level to a rugged mountain hike at an altitude of over 2300m. For the former, light clothing and trainers will be perfectly adequate, even on some winter days. For the latter you should wear walking boots and carry adequate warm and waterproof clothing at all times of the year.
It is difficult to generalise about the sort of clothing and equipment that you should take with you on these walks. If, for example, you are planning to walk between Easter and early autumn, and undertaking a wide range of walks (including the mountain routes), bring the same range of clothing and equipment that you would pack for, say, a summer walking tour of any upland range in England. Make sure that includes light clothing (T-shirts and shorts) because – if you are lucky with the weather – you may find that you wear little else.
If you already have some experience of walking in various types of terrain in Britain, you won’t need to be told that you should always carry a good map and a compass, especially if going into the hills. Make sure you are equipped with the relevant map(s) and carry a compass – and are capable of using it – when attempting any of the walks described in this book. If you have not done much upland walking before coming to Cathar castle country, read up about it beforehand – get hold of a copy of Cicerone’s The Hillwalker’s Manual by Bill Birkett.
Two things, however, do need to be stressed.
On a day’s walk in this region, at any time of the year, you will almost certainly build up much more of a thirst than you would when walking in Britain. Drinking water is sometimes available at natural springs or drinking taps. But it is best to assume that you will not come across any, so always carry plenty of drinking water with you.
Carry (and apply liberally!) effective sun lotion. In that respect this region does bear comparison with Andalusia and Crete.
A few other warnings are called for (see below), but don’t let these deter you from visiting Cathar castle country. It is, on the whole, a pretty safe place.
The sudden storms mentioned above can cause rivers to rise with amazing rapidity; dry streambeds can become raging torrents with a matter of hours. If your walk includes a stretch of dry riverbed, or a key river crossing, be aware that those sections may become impassable after very heavy rainfall. In the walk descriptions advice is given about possible options.
The storms may be accompanied by lightning. If you can shelter in a mountain refuge (or an orri, an old drystone shepherd’s hut) while a storm rages, well and good. But the likelihood is that the storm will break before you can reach one. Sit on your rucksack in open ground after laying aside anything metal (such as walking poles). You will get very wet, but you will minimise the risk of being struck by lightning. You should dry out quickly in the sun once the storm has passed.
Lightning may also cause fire. Fortunately, this part of France suffers much less from fires in forest and undergrowth than does hotter, drier Provence, further east. If you find yourself anywhere near an uncontrolled fire, get away from it as quickly as possible. Flames can move across the ground with startling speed, especially when fanned by a strong wind. Needless to say, walkers should take great care not to start a fire themselves.
If you are walking anywhere in this region from September to February, don’t be surprised to hear the occasional sharp crack of gunfire, probably from hunters tracking down wild boar or, on the higher ground, deer. You may also see signs alongside footpaths warning you that shooting is taking place in the area. It is very unlikely that you will be shot; the hunters have to comply with strict safety regulations, including not firing across footpaths. Stick carefully to the waymarked path and offer a cheerful bonjour as you go past.
You have even less cause for concern if you ever actually see a wild boar. The sight of anything resembling Homo sapiens will cause it to turn on its heels and dash off without a second’s hesitation. Wolves and bears live in Cathar castle country, but in extremely small numbers. They do eat sheep and other livestock for breakfast (in 2004 a bear polished off a couple of pigs in Niort, just south of Quillan, before being chased away), but your chances of meeting one of these creatures is infinitely small.
Pyrenean sheep dogs – big, beautiful, white-haired creatures – are often employed by farmers to guard flocks of sheep and goats while they graze. These dogs are usually unaccompanied by shepherds. They may utter a few warning barks in your direction, but present no danger to walkers. If you have a dog with you, keep it well under control (as in all circumstances). Pyrenean sheep dogs are trained to issue summary justice to bears, wolves and stray dogs which threaten their flock, so don’t give them reason to take issue with your pet.
Sheep and cattle are often fenced in. Even high up on open country you will come across wire fences. They rarely present an insuperable barrier, but always be careful how you cross them; they might be electrified. Some electric fences are powered by solar panels.
As caterpillars descend, plants shoot up. In spring and early summer undergrowth can rapidly become exceptionally dense, especially in the western part of the area. The paths followed on the walks described all seem popular, so the passage of walkers should keep most of them clear. But one or two sections were overgrown when the walks were surveyed. Where this may be a problem a suggested alternative route is given.
Finally, take a note of emergency telephone numbers, posted up in information offices, gîtes, hotels, and so on. If you ever need to telephone for help or to report an accident or a fire and are not sure who best to call, ring 18 (the French fire service, the sapeurs pompiers, which deals with many types of emergency). However, bear in mind that mobile telephones will not always work in remoter areas of countryside. Always ensure that you have adequate insurance in case you have to be rescued or need emergency medical treatment.
LOOK OUT FOR…
Snakes are rarely sighted, and the majority are not poisonous. Perhaps the most ‘dangerous’ creature that you are likely to encounter is – surprisingly – a caterpillar. In the early spring, especially beneath or near pine trees, you may see curious, worm-like lines of hairy brown caterpillars winding across the ground. These are processional caterpillars, that overwinter in a cotton-wool cocoon high up in a pine tree. They chomp on the pine leaves and can leave whole forests devastated. In spring they come down to earth, form head-to-tail chains and wander around looking for somewhere to bury