Walking in the Cevennes. Janette Norton

lots of yellow crosses telling you not to go to the left and attempt to climb it, though it is surely possible. At a fork go right down the side of the hill. You can see a big farm down on the right and, shortly after, the village itself on the left as the path meets the narrow road going into the hamlet (1hr 15mins).

      It is worthwhile exploring the short winding streets of Esparon to admire the ancient houses, which have been tastefully renovated.

      (7) At the little Place du Village turn down right just before the low wall of the half-renovated bakery. (Note: this shortcut is easy to miss because of the renovations, so if you cannot find it continue down on the road – you can see the col below quite clearly). The grassy shortcut path soon crosses the road and continues down to reach the Col de L’Esparon (1hr 25mins) at an intersection.

      (8) Cross the road to meet a signpost at the Col de L’Esparon. Take direction La Bernadette 3.8kms, Bréau-et-Salagosse 4.9kms. The jeep track passes a house up on the left and soon enters cool chestnut forest. Ignore any turnings off and keep to the main track, which is wide and flat – just after the turning DFCIG-59 look for a bevy of white beehives in a small clearing to the right.

      (9) Where the track meets pine trees look for a signpost indicating right down a narrow path. There is a red/yellow cross on the track ahead. The path goes down medium steep through tall grasses and pines to reach a jeep track in a clearing.

      (10) Go down right on the jeep track.Careful – do not take the track immediately after to the right. Further down go through a barrier (sign here indicating‘Fôret Dominale de L’Aigoual’). When the jeep track veers to the right, go straight on to a narrower track. Continue round a wide tree-covered gully, where you can distinguish on the surrounding slopes the bright green chestnuts from the more muted oaks and, sticking out like pylons, the darker pine trees. The path crosses a rivulet, which runs through the gully and eventually goes out into the open through a grassy area with lots of broom and heather.

      (11) At a junction (2hrs 20mins) where there is another post, PR20(8), turn right as indicated and descend gently to reach the village of Bréau-et-Salagosse. The view opens out and you get a beautiful view of the valley and surrounding hills.

      (12) At the top of the village in the Place Prisonnière go left following yellow splashes (ignore red/yellow cross) which take you down the long quaint village street. Go right at an iron bench just before entering the Place de la Mairie, where there is a charming auberge, Les Quatres Saisons (2hrs 35mins).

      (13) Go left in the Place and then right down the Ancienne Voie Romaine which turns into a narrow cobbled track with high walls each side. This is part of an ancient Roman road, which went from the town of Nîmes to Millau. It reaches the D272 after a few minutes.

      (14) Walk a few metres to the left and take a path down right just before the road turns (2hrs 45mins). This is another wide, shady sunken mule track, which joins the road again.

      (15) Go right and cross a bridge over a dry riverbed. Turn a corner and take the second turning to the right at a new signpost Les Vignes indicating Molieres-Cavaillac 1.3kms.

      There is a warehouse left and further up a number of new houses. At the end of the houses the road becomes a jeep track. Continue up keeping to the right and where it goes into a field take a narrow rocky path right (there are yellow splashes here). Shortly after keep left (right goes up over a field to a half-finished house). The narrow balcony path is undulating along the side of a hill in and out of woodland, past a ruin to the left. You have completed a circle and the rocky Esparon hump is now straight ahead.

      (16) The path goes down between high banks to a road. Go right to reach a signpost. Following yellow splash go up right on to a wide jeep track. A few minutes after, on a wide corner, go straight ahead on a narrow path and follow signs on left which take you up by a small park to the entrance of the village. Retrace your steps to the parking (3hrs 30mins).

WALK 4

      Pic d’Anjeau/Rochers de la Tude