These can be very good value and an excellent way to sample local food and culture.
Campsites
There are several sites in Chamonix itself and along the valley. Camping is generally not allowed outside of campsites.
Huts or refuges
The Cabane du Trient (photo: Nigel Jones)
It can be very pleasant to spend a night or two in a mountain hut when exploring the area. These vary greatly in the facilities they offer, from quite luxurious with showers and rooms to the most basic with just a dormitory and dining room. There are always toilets in or near the huts and usually in summer there is running cold water, but in high huts this can freeze overnight, meaning there is no water in the morning. Water in the huts is not always potable so you may need to buy bottled water.
Most huts are open from mid to late June to mid-September and there will be a guardian in residence. The guardian will cook the evening meal and breakfast, and many huts also offer picnic lunches too. They serve drinks, both soft and alcoholic. In some huts you can prepare your own food but this isn’t common in the huts described in this guide.
All huts described here have bedding and usually hut slippers are available, although this is not always the case.
Hut etiquette
You should always reserve at a hut before going, even if it’s just a phone call the night before. And it goes without saying that if you can’t get there for some reason you should call to cancel. If you have special dietary requirements then you should tell the guardian when you make your reservation. Equally, if you prefer to be in a room (if they exist) you should ask for that beforehand. There are no single-sex dormitories in European huts.
You should also ask about payment – some huts take credit cards but more often than not you pay in cash.
On arrival at a hut for the night you should greet the guardian and tell them who you are. At most huts you’re expected to remove your boots before going into the living area. The hut guardian will tell you what the procedures are for things like eating and rooms. Each hut is different, but the common factor is that the hut is the guardian’s home for the season and so you should treat the hut like someone else’s house.
On the Office de la Haute Montagne website (www.ohm-chamonix.com) you can find a list of all huts in the Mont Blanc massif with the dates they are open as well as contact numbers (see also Appendix A).
Tourist information
Starting up the chains in the Tré-les-Eaux valley (Adventure Walks, Route 5)
The Chamonix valley is served by several tourist offices, the main one of which, in Chamonix itself, has information for the whole valley. If you are looking for information about the smaller villages, you can go straight to their respective tourist offices. (See Appendix A for contact information.)
Much information can be gleaned from the Office de la Haute Montagne (OHM, www.ohm-chamonix.com, tel 04 50 53 22 08) in Chamonix and this is definitely a place to get to know. Situated next to the church, in the same building as the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, the OHM is open to all. Guidebooks and maps are available for consultation, and there is always someone on hand who will be able to update you on current conditions in the mountains. The weather forecast is also displayed in French and English on the wall outside.
Language
The language officially spoken in Chamonix is, of course, French. Chamonix itself is now so international that English (or a version thereof) is heard almost as much as French. However, having a smattering of French vocabulary is advisable and will endear you to the locals. At least greet people with ‘Bonjour’ and offer an ‘Au revoir’ when you leave. Add in a ‘Bonne journée’ and you’ll be doing well. ‘S’il vous plaît’ and ‘Merci’ tend to get you a smile too.
It is normal practice in France to say a greeting even in shops and Anglophones can appear quite rude if they don’t follow this custom. In the mountains ‘Bonjour’ is also expected, whether on foot, on a bike or at a belay on a climb.
A list of useful words and phrases is included in the glossary (Appendix B).
Health and safety
There are risks attached to all mountain activities, however safe the environment may seem. Accidents in the non-glaciated mountains range from sprained ankles to broken bones to much worse – some of the delightful trails described here traverse mountain sides where a fall off the path would probably have terrible consequences. Equally, mountain biking can be dangerous if you’re on a narrow trail or doing a fast descent. The glaciated hikes have their own associated risks, as do rock climbing and via ferratas.
Having taken all sensible precautions then these activities are there to be enjoyed, but it is crucial to do what you can to avoid accidents and then be prepared if they do happen.
Weather forecasts
Before you go out, it’s important to check the weather forecast. For an up-to-date weather forecast in French, tel 08 99 71 02 74 or go to: http://france.meteofrance.com. The following websites also have forecasts in English: www.chamonix-meteo.com and www.chamonix.com.
First aid
All walkers and climbers should carry a small basic first aid kit in their rucksacks. This should contain:
Plasters
Painkillers
Antiseptic cream
Crêpe bandage
Penknife with scissors
Latex gloves
Antiseptic wipes
Emergencies
As a last resort for serious injuries you may need to contact the emergency services. The number to call is 112. This works throughout Europe.
In Chamonix the rescue service is run by the PGHM and they can be contacted directly on tel 04 50 53 16 89. It is also possible to send an SMS, which can be helpful if your mobile battery is low or the reception is very poor. You need to be able to tell them:
Where – your exact location
What – the precise nature of the problem
Who – how many people and in what condition
When – exactly when the accident happened
Rescue
Any rescue in the Alps is likely to be carried out by helicopter. Make your position visible for the helicopter and keep everyone and everything together, out of the way.
When the helicopter approaches, signal that you are the person who called by raising both arms diagonally. This tells the pilot, ‘Yes, I need help’ and ‘Yes, land here’.
If you do not need help raise one arm up diagonally and one arm down diagonally. This tells the pilot, ‘No, I do not need help’ or ‘No, do not land here’.
Insurance
Rescue and medical costs are charged in Europe so you do need insurance. The following companies provide good insurance schemes: